http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...bearing+repack
Found that in about thirty seconds using a forums search. (bearing repack)
Pictures & everything...nice job Kenny!
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...bearing+repack
Found that in about thirty seconds using a forums search. (bearing repack)
Pictures & everything...nice job Kenny!
Answers to your questions:
1) Yes it is the kind of fish scale for weighing fish. You need it to adjust the torque setting for that retention ring so you aren't over tightening your bearing loads on the outer bearings.
2) I have no idea why you would need an impact wrench, I never used one once during the entire process.
3) You can manually repack the bearing by hand and they will be fine, as long as you really take your time and make absolutely sure you get grease everywhere inside them.
4)The snap rings are used to hold the differential oil seals in place along with the bearings if I remember correctly. I think there are two per axle for what you are doing.
5)Chopper is referring to swapping out the CV joint axle assemblies which rumor has it can be found for around $80 rebuilt each Here: http://www.alldiscountautoparts.com/...e=arc&s=1&my=1
6) If you don't have one, get a torque wrench or be able to rent one from an auto parts store. You definitely don't want stuff haunting you later because you misapplied a torque setting.
7) Read the procedure over in the manual a lot you are only going to get more confused, then more familiar. I printed out the sections I was using so I could have the at the ready for reference and so I didn't get axle grease, etc on my computer keys![]()
You should be OK with the jackstand setup you have there. You may or may not need some cutoffs of wood to help distribute the weight more evenly when you jack on some places, and you want to make sure the back wheels are very securely blocked/chocked.
You do have to drop the axle, at least a little bit so you can maneuver the CV axles out. The bearings you are after are on them towards the insides. It is also a helluva lot easier to take the CV axles out with the differential brackets still on them. They will be just dangling and being held on by the oil seals and bearings. It is a tight fit getting them out. This is where you may have to have them pressed off. I have a light shop press at home. That's what I used.
Any more questions, let me know. I will try to get that walkthrough ready to send to you by tomorrow. I really don't have any pictures, but I can tell you exactly what sections of the manual to use and where you'll likely run into trouble spots.
The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable man persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on me.
Thanks for all the help guys. I am busy at work for once today and do not have much time to reply. But I did find this on the web. It states that 75W90 is the equal to regular 10W40????????????
Apples and oranges man, you are confusing differential gear oil with motor oil. The differential oil for the VX comes in pretty much two flavors: 75W90 and 75W140. They are different from normal motor oils. The are thicker and smell funky. I personally used the Mobil1 75W140 full synthetic and it was pricey ($18 a bottle I think) as hell. You can use an off brand non synthetic for far less, but personally I didn't want to chance it. You may also want pump for this stuff as it can sometimes be a PITA to fill the differential, although you can just try and use the bottle. I looked at the temperature ranges listed on the sides of both types of bottles and really couldn't find a compelling reason to use the 75W90 at all. The 140 is good across a far broader range and where I live the temps like to stay on the higher side, and then dip really low at night. If you are going to service the rear at the same time as the front don't forget to get a tube or bottle of limited slip differential additive(LSD) for the rear differential only.It states that 75W90 is the equal to regular 10W40????????????
Well I almost got some fluid in there but even my pb blaster could not break that bolt loose. I did go to home depot and check the prices on an torque wrench and they said they do not carry them for rentals. The cheapest one I could find was near $200. I do have a small compressor at the house, that my bro uses for art (5gallon I think). That would do, if I was to find a wrench for rental right?
>A how-to on this one would greatly appreciated. <
I thought I posted the webiste with the comparision of oil last post but I guess I did not.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil
yeah its wiki i know.
This is on the drivers side. I just did a MS paint-job for you all. Since I have once again forgetton my camera sd card at home.
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