LEAKAGE. Do not know wur its coming from

[IndianaVX]

john,
if you do do this....(uh hu hu, i said "do do") or any other job with lots of parts, dont be ashamed to get a vidio camera to tape things, so you can remember how it goes back easier, ive had to do it before. also, zip lock bags with the white labels to write on with a marker, for holding bolts and labeling where they go. and maybe even a big ole' piece of cardboard to lay stuff out on like a big "exploded view", and then you can make notes on the cardboard pointing to the part.....you know?? you can ususally go to a lumber yard like lowes, and in the plywood section, they sometimes have 4' x 8' pieces of cardboard to protect the plywood during shipping that they will give you. just some things ive done on complicated proceduers, that have paid off.
believe me, if you get it apart, and have something come up where a day or two pass, you can forget alot.
good luck with it.

[JHarris1385]

Well by gawd. That what I say to that. Ill be honest and give some background on me. I have never done anything past an oil change till I got this VX. SInce I have done alot and am very willing to learn more to become more confident. So I have decided to do this.

I dont have an extensive library of tools but I have been buying them as needed. I do not have an impact wrench as it was earlier stated that I need one. Is this for sure. I have snap ring pilers already. Just got them with multiple tips for the fuel pressure regulator install.

The problem is I am not good with names of parts and pieces to autos. But am once again willing to learn. So reading list of part names begins to confuse me at times. But so far I understand a good 80% of all that is mentioned.

So I need to drop this axel? How is this done? I do have two jacks and two stands.

Replace that seal. That is easily(?) found at an auto zone, O Reily's or at least on order?

And re pack my bearings?

All of which I have never done before, and the axel part and packing the bearings right kinda intimidate me. But I would rather learn and know how to next time vs. paying the bucks for a shop to do it. And I do have trust issues with things like that and I really dont have a family friend mechanic.

Would anyone have part numbers to all that is needed? Or would it be easier to take a list of what is needed to a parts store to make an order? Also it was mentioned this all could be done for under $100? Side note: I have been planning on doing some filter/fluid change to the tranny and the diffs for the last two weeks. So I might try to squeez all of this in on this weekend.

Thanks guys for all the help and support. That is what makes this site awesome. I am always talking about it. Thanks again.

?'s
Bearing pack?
Snap rings (I know what they are but where do they go and what are the numbers?)
Fish scale? We are not talking about the ones used to weigh a fish are we?

Chopper - How much does swapping it all out cost?

[Ldub]

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...bearing+repack

Found that in about thirty seconds using a forums search. (bearing repack)
Pictures & everything...nice job Kenny!

[JHarris1385]

I sometimes forget about that serach button. How easy of a job is that, how much is a packer? And more importantly to me how easy is it to mess this job up and screw something else up in the process?

Man I have lots of questions.

[Ascinder]

Answers to your questions:

1) Yes it is the kind of fish scale for weighing fish. You need it to adjust the torque setting for that retention ring so you aren't over tightening your bearing loads on the outer bearings.
2) I have no idea why you would need an impact wrench, I never used one once during the entire process.
3) You can manually repack the bearing by hand and they will be fine, as long as you really take your time and make absolutely sure you get grease everywhere inside them.
4)The snap rings are used to hold the differential oil seals in place along with the bearings if I remember correctly. I think there are two per axle for what you are doing.
5)Chopper is referring to swapping out the CV joint axle assemblies which rumor has it can be found for around $80 rebuilt each Here: http://www.alldiscountautoparts.com/...e=arc&s=1&my=1
6) If you don't have one, get a torque wrench or be able to rent one from an auto parts store. You definitely don't want stuff haunting you later because you misapplied a torque setting.
7) Read the procedure over in the manual a lot you are only going to get more confused, then more familiar. I printed out the sections I was using so I could have the at the ready for reference and so I didn't get axle grease, etc on my computer keys
You should be OK with the jackstand setup you have there. You may or may not need some cutoffs of wood to help distribute the weight more evenly when you jack on some places, and you want to make sure the back wheels are very securely blocked/chocked.

You do have to drop the axle, at least a little bit so you can maneuver the CV axles out. The bearings you are after are on them towards the insides. It is also a helluva lot easier to take the CV axles out with the differential brackets still on them. They will be just dangling and being held on by the oil seals and bearings. It is a tight fit getting them out. This is where you may have to have them pressed off. I have a light shop press at home. That's what I used.
Any more questions, let me know. I will try to get that walkthrough ready to send to you by tomorrow. I really don't have any pictures, but I can tell you exactly what sections of the manual to use and where you'll likely run into trouble spots.

[JHarris1385]

Thanks for all the help guys. I am busy at work for once today and do not have much time to reply. But I did find this on the web. It states that 75W90 is the equal to regular 10W40????????????

[Ascinder]

It states that 75W90 is the equal to regular 10W40????????????

Apples and oranges man, you are confusing differential gear oil with motor oil. The differential oil for the VX comes in pretty much two flavors: 75W90 and 75W140. They are different from normal motor oils. The are thicker and smell funky. I personally used the Mobil1 75W140 full synthetic and it was pricey ($18 a bottle I think) as hell. You can use an off brand non synthetic for far less, but personally I didn't want to chance it. You may also want pump for this stuff as it can sometimes be a PITA to fill the differential, although you can just try and use the bottle. I looked at the temperature ranges listed on the sides of both types of bottles and really couldn't find a compelling reason to use the 75W90 at all. The 140 is good across a far broader range and where I live the temps like to stay on the higher side, and then dip really low at night. If you are going to service the rear at the same time as the front don't forget to get a tube or bottle of limited slip differential additive(LSD) for the rear differential only.