LEAKAGE. Do not know wur its coming from

[Dino]

I'm pretty sure it's the axle seal. Any oil coming from above would have to get past the hot exhaust manifold and it would produce smoke. Smell the fluid and you'll know. Gear oil has a vey distinctive smell.

It's a big job involving the removal of the drive axle. The seal goes into the axle housing, then the axle goes in.

The seal is a common part and should be available in any auto parts store by application... i.e. year, make, model.

It is Timken part #710516. I checked with my parts guy here. Costs less than $20.

You have probably lost some diff oil and that's why you're hearing noise. Be sure to look at the fluid you drain from the diff for metallic glittery stuff, in which case, you've worn the gear faces on the ring and pinion gears. Not the end of everything, but not good either. Let's hope that's not the case.

Good luck!

[JHarris1385]

Not to sure if I am up to the challenge of the adding that seal? Willing to learn. How hard would that be?

I might as well go look at it tonight and change the oil? 75W90 right? How many bottles?

If it is the seal is there a temporary fix?

Thanks for the info and the diagram.

[Chopper]

You may want to go 85 or 90/140 this time of year, go back to 75/90 in winter.The job itself is a fairly complex and time consuming one. If you are totally green on 4x4 front ends, it would be a good idea to,at the very least, have some help from a bud who has cracked one before. You may want to farm this one out...it won't be cheap though. If you had the Helm manual, and a decent set of tools(snap ring pliers, torque wrench etc.) and a bunch of time, you could do it. Second time through, it goes much more quickly How are your CV's, tie rod ends,wheel bearings and such...you'll be in there anyway Good luck either way you go. Wayne

[Ascinder]

Having just done a lot of work on my front end, I can tell you that it's a PITA to replace that seal. You have to tear out a helluva lot to get at it, and while you're in there it sure wouldn't hurt to replace the inner bearings(I did) since they are pretty cheap, and after you know what this is like, you're probably not going to want to do it again. Be very careful getting your upper and lower balljoints separated. I tore two of the boots on mine, and just ended up buying four new complete units. You pill probably need a balljoint separator(AKA pickle fork) and a bearing press helps a lot too. I know mine were in plenty tight and after soaking them well in advance with PB blaster and beating on them with a 5lb. sledge for quite awhile, they still didn't want to come out. The book is goin to tell you that you need some special tools, but they can be ignored if you have a little ingenuity and some common sense. I would take a good hard look at those CV boots while you're in there. Mine were showing signs of dry rot cracking from the nasty desert I live in. Good luck.

[JHarris1385]

I would have to say I have now become completely discouraged to do this repair. I wish I was more confident with this. I would really like to learn this but am to afriad I will damage something in the process. I forgot to upload the pics I took last night. It seems like it is just not a slow leak but spinning/spitting out of the gap between the two becuase the metal above it is wet as well.

[Chopper]

Take it to a Cv/axle joint. The only downside is you won't get to do all those bearing, boot, tie rod end swaps, unless your pockets are deep.Swaping the front axles entirely is probably the cheapest and easiest way to go...I would be inclined to do both at the same time though.

[JHarris1385]

Damn now I am worried.