LEAKAGE. Do not know wur its coming from

[etlsport]

j.. u sure u arent thinking of an impact wrench? u need an air compressor for that and they are a big more expensive.... a torque wrench looks just like a socket but the bottom has torque values on it... you can get them at most stores for $100 or less.. ive seen them as low as 15 from harbor freight, and from what i hear they work just as well or better than craftsman ones.. which are known to break easily

[JHarris1385]

So does and impact carry torque settings? From the posts above Ill need to be able to dial specific torques.

[etlsport]

no it sounds like u were looking at impact wrenches... what you actually need is a torque wrench... usually they arent hooked up to an air compressor and can be had for $100 or less

[JHarris1385]

I got confused and mixed the two when typing I was at work doing a report at the same time.

Earlier it was mentioned an impact wrench for removal.

Then a torque wrench to get the settings right. So Yeah I should have said this. Is it possible to get an impact wrench with torque settings?

If all fails I will buy just a torque wrench and use some pb blaster. I think the Harbor freight in my neck of the woods just opened. Are they normally cheaper than HD or Lowes, Sears?

[Ascinder]

You should be able to get a torque wrench to rent from most auto parts stores. Like etl said though, you can pick one up for pretty cheap at harbor freight and they work just fine. I personally use a harbor freight wrench, and being a little skeptical about the quality and accuracy took it to my old work out at the Nat'l Guard base and checked it for calibration on our special testers. It performed better than anything else in the competition including craftsman and Snap on. I see what you are saying about the gear oil, but having personally used it I think that Wiki is full of crap. Anyone who has handled gear oil and motor oil can tell you right off that gear oil is heavier, almost the consistency of fresh honey. Also, the operating parameters are different by far if you read the rest of the article. What bolt are you referring to when you say that you cant get it off? Often times a length of pipe over the end of your socket wrench is you friend to loosen things. Another almost essential item is a pair of duckbill pliers for all the cotter pins you'll be dealing with. They make the job so much easier IMHO. You don't need an air compressor for anything on here as I mentioned before. Just make sure the torque wrench you get ahold of has a fairly broad range of settings. Go through the reassembly procedures you will be performing in the manual and see what torques you will be dealing with to get a better idea. DO NOT CONFUSE inch pounds and foot pounds. You can seriously damage things if you do. I think there are very few inch pound torques on the VX anyways. On the nuts you will be taking on and off it is usually the preferred method to start at the lowest torque setting(if there is a torque range) to try and line up the cotter pin hole. If it isn't lining up within the range you either need to add a thin washer to help align it, or feel ballsy enough to just crank down till it lines up. Use new cotter pins, they are cheap.

[Ldub]

I think the confusion regarding torque/impact wrenches is stemming from the mention in the past of an impact wrench being a handy tool to have when removing the little phillips head screws that hold the bearing tensioning collar in place...they are fairly soft & the heads are easily stripped. (rounded)

It was a HAND impact wrench that was recommended (also harbor freight), which can be used with a phillips bit & struck with a hammer.

[Ascinder]

If all fails I will buy just a torque wrench and use some pb blaster. I think the Harbor freight in my neck of the woods just opened. Are they normally cheaper than HD or Lowes, Sears?

Harbor Freight is known for having pretty much the cheapest tools around. Some people curse their name, others praise them for offering reasonable prices. Personally I have used them for years and have yet to have had any problems. In fact, many of the hand tools in the Snap On catalog are identical(yes in quality too). They are willing to replace any broken hand tool for free forever just like sears, but for substantially less up front. To me, unless you are going to use these tools absolutely every day like a professional mechanic or a contractor, then they are a good blend of cost vs. effectiveness. For the average occasional/infrequent do it yourselfer, they are ideal. I don't know if you know this or not, but you aren't going to be using the torque wrench to take things off with. At least you really shouldn't. They can be damaged and then the settings you dial in won't be in any way precise. If you have wrenches with a box end, and an open end, you can use one and link another through the other end to create a longer lever, or use a large socket wrench and a hollow length of tube around the handle to get the leverage. You should also look up their metric socket sets while you're there. I think if you get the right two, then they should have any and all sockets you will ever use on the VX.

[JHarris1385]

I cant not get the fill plugg off the front diff to even top it off. I have loaded it with PB Blaster and still no luch even with a breaker bar. Any ideas?