LEAKAGE. Do not know wur its coming from

[Ascinder]

It states that 75W90 is the equal to regular 10W40????????????

Apples and oranges man, you are confusing differential gear oil with motor oil. The differential oil for the VX comes in pretty much two flavors: 75W90 and 75W140. They are different from normal motor oils. The are thicker and smell funky. I personally used the Mobil1 75W140 full synthetic and it was pricey ($18 a bottle I think) as hell. You can use an off brand non synthetic for far less, but personally I didn't want to chance it. You may also want pump for this stuff as it can sometimes be a PITA to fill the differential, although you can just try and use the bottle. I looked at the temperature ranges listed on the sides of both types of bottles and really couldn't find a compelling reason to use the 75W90 at all. The 140 is good across a far broader range and where I live the temps like to stay on the higher side, and then dip really low at night. If you are going to service the rear at the same time as the front don't forget to get a tube or bottle of limited slip differential additive(LSD) for the rear differential only.

[JHarris1385]

Well I almost got some fluid in there but even my pb blaster could not break that bolt loose. I did go to home depot and check the prices on an torque wrench and they said they do not carry them for rentals. The cheapest one I could find was near $200. I do have a small compressor at the house, that my bro uses for art (5gallon I think). That would do, if I was to find a wrench for rental right?

>A how-to on this one would greatly appreciated. <

I thought I posted the webiste with the comparision of oil last post but I guess I did not.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil

yeah its wiki i know.

[JHarris1385]

This is on the drivers side. I just did a MS paint-job for you all. Since I have once again forgetton my camera sd card at home.

[etlsport]

j.. u sure u arent thinking of an impact wrench? u need an air compressor for that and they are a big more expensive.... a torque wrench looks just like a socket but the bottom has torque values on it... you can get them at most stores for $100 or less.. ive seen them as low as 15 from harbor freight, and from what i hear they work just as well or better than craftsman ones.. which are known to break easily

[JHarris1385]

So does and impact carry torque settings? From the posts above Ill need to be able to dial specific torques.

[etlsport]

no it sounds like u were looking at impact wrenches... what you actually need is a torque wrench... usually they arent hooked up to an air compressor and can be had for $100 or less

[JHarris1385]

I got confused and mixed the two when typing I was at work doing a report at the same time.

Earlier it was mentioned an impact wrench for removal.

Then a torque wrench to get the settings right. So Yeah I should have said this. Is it possible to get an impact wrench with torque settings?

If all fails I will buy just a torque wrench and use some pb blaster. I think the Harbor freight in my neck of the woods just opened. Are they normally cheaper than HD or Lowes, Sears?

[Ascinder]

You should be able to get a torque wrench to rent from most auto parts stores. Like etl said though, you can pick one up for pretty cheap at harbor freight and they work just fine. I personally use a harbor freight wrench, and being a little skeptical about the quality and accuracy took it to my old work out at the Nat'l Guard base and checked it for calibration on our special testers. It performed better than anything else in the competition including craftsman and Snap on. I see what you are saying about the gear oil, but having personally used it I think that Wiki is full of crap. Anyone who has handled gear oil and motor oil can tell you right off that gear oil is heavier, almost the consistency of fresh honey. Also, the operating parameters are different by far if you read the rest of the article. What bolt are you referring to when you say that you cant get it off? Often times a length of pipe over the end of your socket wrench is you friend to loosen things. Another almost essential item is a pair of duckbill pliers for all the cotter pins you'll be dealing with. They make the job so much easier IMHO. You don't need an air compressor for anything on here as I mentioned before. Just make sure the torque wrench you get ahold of has a fairly broad range of settings. Go through the reassembly procedures you will be performing in the manual and see what torques you will be dealing with to get a better idea. DO NOT CONFUSE inch pounds and foot pounds. You can seriously damage things if you do. I think there are very few inch pound torques on the VX anyways. On the nuts you will be taking on and off it is usually the preferred method to start at the lowest torque setting(if there is a torque range) to try and line up the cotter pin hole. If it isn't lining up within the range you either need to add a thin washer to help align it, or feel ballsy enough to just crank down till it lines up. Use new cotter pins, they are cheap.