Transmission - Diff - Change

[JHarris1385]

Thanks guys for chiming in. I think ill take gasmask's advice and do the tranny this saturday and the diffs then or tonight.

I think i only have questions becuase at about 10pm last night I thought I would head to the local superstore to pick up the goods so I could right to it after work today and found ONE type of gear oil with something like 75w...and it was valuecraft.

Questions still
1. The tranny and TOD require ATF? All the same type? How many quarts to be safe? What is the best brand?

2. The rear and front diffs take different type of oil? Ill go syn so no need of the lsd right?

3. Is there not a seperate gasket for the adapter pan and the pan that holds the drian plug. Or am I just lost here?

[nfpgasmask]

Hopefully someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you put ATF in both the tranny and the TOD. The gasket goes on the pan that you drop, and iirc, there is only one pan to drop. The drain/fill area is not dropped.

I would say Mobile-1 and Royal Purple are your best products. Mobile-1 is much easier to find, so I would go with that, plus it is typically about $1-$2 cheaper than the RP.

I would say to be safe, pick up 8-9 quarts of ATF. I know I still have 2 full quarts in my garage from when I did mine a year ago. I don't know how much for the diffs or if they need different types.

Bart

Thanks guys for chiming in. I think ill take gasmask's advice and do the tranny this saturday and the diffs then or tonight.

I think i only have questions becuase at about 10pm last night I thought I would head to the local superstore to pick up the goods so I could right to it after work today and found ONE type of gear oil with something like 75w...and it was valuecraft.

Questions still
1. The tranny and TOD require ATF? All the same type? How many quarts to be safe? What is the best brand?

2. The rear and front diffs take different type of oil? Ill go syn so no need of the lsd right?

3. Is there not a seperate gasket for the adapter pan and the pan that holds the drian plug. Or am I just lost here?

[JHarris1385]

These were the two gaskets I was referring to.

Also is this a good deal?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4L30E...QQcmdZViewItem

[nfpgasmask]

Yeah, hopefully someone else will chime in here. *I think* one of the gaskets goes on the tranny pan (the big one) and the smaller one goes on the pan that covers the TOD. If you look under your VX you will see both pans.

I changed only one of these that I can remember. That is a good deal, get it.

Bart

These were the two gaskets I was referring to.

Also is this a good deal?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4L30E...QQcmdZViewItem

[Kenny]

You will "need" the first gasket on the adapter pan (Small front one).
I say "need" because I think if you're careful pulling off the pan, the gasket will be fine - mine was ok to re-use.

The second gasket will only be needed if you decide to change your strainer that's up behind the larger pan (drain - fill). I never bothered with this one (yet).

The gasket maker is not needed if you have the proper size gaskets.

Get at least 12 quarts.
9 to 9.5 into the transmission and 2 to 2.5 into the transfer case. Get a bit more and you could replace your power steering fluid that is also ATF.

Take your time and follow Joe Black's how to closely.

[UtahVXer]

Here is a more complete maintenance list:
0. Change tranny fluid, filter, gasket
1. Check battery fluid level
2. Power Flush and fill radiator, clean radiator core and A/C condenser
3. Check Brake fluid level
4. Check for fluid leaks
5. Change Engine Oil and filter
6. Check hoses
7. Check cooling and heater hoses
8. Check fuel line and replace fuel filter
9. Check Engine Drive Belt
10. Lube propeller shaft and check shaft flange torque
11. Check Steering operation
12. Check Brake lines & hoses
13. Check Disk Brakes
14. Check Brake Pedal Play
15. Check Parking Brake
16. Lube Accelerator linkage
17. Check suspension and steering
18. Change power steering fluid
19. Lube body and chasis
20. Check TOD system fluid
21. Check auto cruise control linkage and hoses
22. Check starter safety switch
23. Check accelerator linkage
24. Change front and rear axle oil
25. Change txfer case oil
26. Check and adjust valve clearance
27. Repack front wheel bearings

Don't forget to replace the fuel filter.

[Ascinder]

Also, don't forget that fluid flows easier when it's hot, so go run your VX around for awhile before you do the draining so it all flows out easier and more completly. You can also fish a syringe with a plastic ube on the end in the drain hole to suck out any remaining fluid. It is fairly worthless to do a fluid change if all the pieces of heavy metal stay in the bottom of the case after it is drained, just to get churned right back up into the system when it gets filled again. Also I know for sure that the Mobil-1 comes in pretty much two types of differential oil. The 75W90 is only good across a narrower temperature range. The 75W140 is good across a really broad range and costs a helluva lot more money. I used the 140 simply because temps in Nevada are absolutley insane. You go from sweltering Vegas summers to High Sierra winters, so it was almost a necessity. For milder climates, the 90 should be fine. I threw in the LSD additive when I did mine, don't know if it was necessary, but better safe than sorry.

[kelvin]

Ok, so i did my diffs this weekend and would like to remind every one that the drain plug on the rear diff has a magnet in it to collect any stray metal particles. You shouldn't need to suck every last bit out as long as you clean all the metal bits off the magnet/plug when you change it. and to get that last bit of fluid out just jack up the drivers side rear axle and it all should pour out...


Now for the question: I pulled the fill plug on my transmission pan and 2 quarts of hot fluid came out. My mechanic said i need to have the car running and in neutral to fill/check to the proper level. should it be filled to the fill plug while the car is running or not running? apparently when it's not running the fluid drains from the lines, etc and will make the pan appear over filled, but while the motor is running the lines etc. are full and that's when you fill the pan to the fill level... does this sound right?

[Ldub]

Ok, so i did my diffs this weekend and would like to remind every one that the drain plug on the rear diff has a magnet in it to collect any stray metal particles. You shouldn't need to suck every last bit out as long as you clean all the metal bits off the magnet/plug when you change it. and to get that last bit of fluid out just jack up the drivers side rear axle and it all should pour out...


Now for the question: I pulled the fill plug on my transmission pan and 2 quarts of hot fluid came out. My mechanic said i need to have the car running and in neutral to fill/check to the proper level. should it be filled to the fill plug while the car is running or not running? apparently when it's not running the fluid drains from the lines, etc and will make the pan appear over filled, but while the motor is running the lines etc. are full and that's when you fill the pan to the fill level... does this sound right?

I've only posted this about eleventy billion times ...but here ya go...

[nfpgasmask]

Ldub, would you post it one more time, just for me?

Bart

[kelvin]

yeah, sorry. didn't find it in the search. but tracked it down in the maintainence manual later this morning... feeling like a slacker now.. thanks...

[Ldub]

yeah, sorry. didn't find it in the search. but tracked it down in the maintainence manual later this morning... feeling like a slacker now.. thanks...

You're welcome kelvin...no worries, now I feel needed.

OK Bart, but only cuz it's you.

[nfpgasmask]

Thanks Dub. I feel all special and warm inside now.

Bart