Transmission - Diff - Change

[VX crazy]

I have never used the LSD additive and have changed fluids 3 times with Royal Purple, runs like a charm. To my understanding you do NOT need that additive with synthetic fluids.

[JHarris1385]

So help me out a bit here. I am a bit illiterate on this.

for the transmission i need
1. 10mm - 19mm
2. 10 quarts of ATF
3. Funnel
4. 3/8 tube in 6ft long
5. catch pan 10quart+
6. filter
7.gasket
8. adapter pan gasket??
9. scrapper
10.scotchbrite pads
11. silicon gasket maker??

Questions takes ten quarts? Are the bottles in quart sizes as well?
What exactally is ATF? And what kind to get? And how much is this?

I ask this and might sound dumb, but I have never cared to learn about this spectrum untill ownership of a VX normally ill be honest, I would tell my dad what my car needs he gives me a blank check and I take it to the dealership. But not anymore.

Also, I am still unclear on what to do with the TOD (where is it located, what kind of oil, how much....)

The differentials require what kind of oil for my Southern Indiana driving? Does the back and front really require seperate oils from each other?
What kind is the best?

I would like to either tackle this tonight if I become confident enough with hopefully the supplied information or at least this weekend.

Thanks in advance to whomever chimes in.

[nfpgasmask]

ATF = Automatic Transmission Fluid. What it exactly is, I could't tell ya. Its pinkish, smells bad/funny and isn't fun to spill all over your garage and self. I put Mobile-1 Synthetic ATF in my trans. I don't think it is ten quarts though, I remember it being more like 6, but you should always get more than you think you need, as not having enough would suck, when you have to go back to the store and get more and your VX is on jack stands.

IIRC, there is only one gasket. This gasket should come with the filter and it goes on your pan. You will see what I mean after you drop the pan. You may need a plastic scraper to remove the old gasket. In my case, it came off with no issue.

The only other thing I would suggest, is to NOT do it tonight, wake up early on Saturday and tackle it fresh, with the whole day ahead of you and plenty of light. I think it is a little more tedious than the instructions lay out, especially since you sound like you're like me, which is new to doing your own auto work. Filling it back up was the hard part, imo. Follow the instuctions, and make sure you get enough fluid in there.

And don't forget to flatten out that gasket for 24 hours inbetween some books!

Bart

So help me out a bit here. I am a bit illiterate on this.

for the transmission i need
1. 10mm - 19mm
2. 10 quarts of ATF
3. Funnel
4. 3/8 tube in 6ft long
5. catch pan 10quart+
6. filter
7.gasket
8. adapter pan gasket??
9. scrapper
10.scotchbrite pads
11. silicon gasket maker??

Questions takes ten quarts? Are the bottles in quart sizes as well?
What exactally is ATF? And what kind to get? And how much is this?

I ask this and might sound dumb, but I have never cared to learn about this spectrum untill ownership of a VX normally ill be honest, I would tell my dad what my car needs he gives me a blank check and I take it to the dealership. But not anymore.

Also, I am still unclear on what to do with the TOD (where is it located, what kind of oil, how much....)

The differentials require what kind of oil for my Southern Indiana driving? Does the back and front really require seperate oils from each other?
What kind is the best?

I would like to either tackle this tonight if I become confident enough with hopefully the supplied information or at least this weekend.

Thanks in advance to whomever chimes in.

[etlsport]

J, you can easily do your differentials tonight, the front took me no longer than 20 minutes.. the rear took me almost two hours.. but about an hour and a half of that was trying to gravity feed the differential through a tube, once i gave up on the tube and just squeezed the oil from the bottle into the differential, it took like 10 minutes
you will need sockets up to 24mm, the rear diff drain plug can only be removed with a socket, a wrench wont get in there

the quick procedure...

remove the fill plug on the differential

place drain pan under drain plug

remove drain plug and let drain, you could jack up the opposite side of the vx to assist in draining if you want.

replace the drain plug (on the rear differential make sure you have the copper washer gasket)

fill the differential by cutting the tip of the bottle off, and squeezing directly into the differential, you will need 2.5 quarts for the front and a little over 3 quarts for the rear, you will know when its full when it starts to leak back out the fill hole

on the rear diff if you use mobil1 synthetic you dont need the lsd additive, if you use regular gear oil you will need the additive, add it before you add the oil in the rear diff

replace the fill plug

double check to make sure all is tightened back up

clean up

[JHarris1385]

Thanks guys for chiming in. I think ill take gasmask's advice and do the tranny this saturday and the diffs then or tonight.

I think i only have questions becuase at about 10pm last night I thought I would head to the local superstore to pick up the goods so I could right to it after work today and found ONE type of gear oil with something like 75w...and it was valuecraft.

Questions still
1. The tranny and TOD require ATF? All the same type? How many quarts to be safe? What is the best brand?

2. The rear and front diffs take different type of oil? Ill go syn so no need of the lsd right?

3. Is there not a seperate gasket for the adapter pan and the pan that holds the drian plug. Or am I just lost here?

[nfpgasmask]

Hopefully someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I believe you put ATF in both the tranny and the TOD. The gasket goes on the pan that you drop, and iirc, there is only one pan to drop. The drain/fill area is not dropped.

I would say Mobile-1 and Royal Purple are your best products. Mobile-1 is much easier to find, so I would go with that, plus it is typically about $1-$2 cheaper than the RP.

I would say to be safe, pick up 8-9 quarts of ATF. I know I still have 2 full quarts in my garage from when I did mine a year ago. I don't know how much for the diffs or if they need different types.

Bart

Thanks guys for chiming in. I think ill take gasmask's advice and do the tranny this saturday and the diffs then or tonight.

I think i only have questions becuase at about 10pm last night I thought I would head to the local superstore to pick up the goods so I could right to it after work today and found ONE type of gear oil with something like 75w...and it was valuecraft.

Questions still
1. The tranny and TOD require ATF? All the same type? How many quarts to be safe? What is the best brand?

2. The rear and front diffs take different type of oil? Ill go syn so no need of the lsd right?

3. Is there not a seperate gasket for the adapter pan and the pan that holds the drian plug. Or am I just lost here?

[UtahVXer]

Here is a more complete maintenance list:
0. Change tranny fluid, filter, gasket
1. Check battery fluid level
2. Power Flush and fill radiator, clean radiator core and A/C condenser
3. Check Brake fluid level
4. Check for fluid leaks
5. Change Engine Oil and filter
6. Check hoses
7. Check cooling and heater hoses
8. Check fuel line and replace fuel filter
9. Check Engine Drive Belt
10. Lube propeller shaft and check shaft flange torque
11. Check Steering operation
12. Check Brake lines & hoses
13. Check Disk Brakes
14. Check Brake Pedal Play
15. Check Parking Brake
16. Lube Accelerator linkage
17. Check suspension and steering
18. Change power steering fluid
19. Lube body and chasis
20. Check TOD system fluid
21. Check auto cruise control linkage and hoses
22. Check starter safety switch
23. Check accelerator linkage
24. Change front and rear axle oil
25. Change txfer case oil
26. Check and adjust valve clearance
27. Repack front wheel bearings

Don't forget to replace the fuel filter.

[Ascinder]

Also, don't forget that fluid flows easier when it's hot, so go run your VX around for awhile before you do the draining so it all flows out easier and more completly. You can also fish a syringe with a plastic ube on the end in the drain hole to suck out any remaining fluid. It is fairly worthless to do a fluid change if all the pieces of heavy metal stay in the bottom of the case after it is drained, just to get churned right back up into the system when it gets filled again. Also I know for sure that the Mobil-1 comes in pretty much two types of differential oil. The 75W90 is only good across a narrower temperature range. The 75W140 is good across a really broad range and costs a helluva lot more money. I used the 140 simply because temps in Nevada are absolutley insane. You go from sweltering Vegas summers to High Sierra winters, so it was almost a necessity. For milder climates, the 90 should be fine. I threw in the LSD additive when I did mine, don't know if it was necessary, but better safe than sorry.

[kelvin]

Ok, so i did my diffs this weekend and would like to remind every one that the drain plug on the rear diff has a magnet in it to collect any stray metal particles. You shouldn't need to suck every last bit out as long as you clean all the metal bits off the magnet/plug when you change it. and to get that last bit of fluid out just jack up the drivers side rear axle and it all should pour out...


Now for the question: I pulled the fill plug on my transmission pan and 2 quarts of hot fluid came out. My mechanic said i need to have the car running and in neutral to fill/check to the proper level. should it be filled to the fill plug while the car is running or not running? apparently when it's not running the fluid drains from the lines, etc and will make the pan appear over filled, but while the motor is running the lines etc. are full and that's when you fill the pan to the fill level... does this sound right?

[Ldub]

Ok, so i did my diffs this weekend and would like to remind every one that the drain plug on the rear diff has a magnet in it to collect any stray metal particles. You shouldn't need to suck every last bit out as long as you clean all the metal bits off the magnet/plug when you change it. and to get that last bit of fluid out just jack up the drivers side rear axle and it all should pour out...


Now for the question: I pulled the fill plug on my transmission pan and 2 quarts of hot fluid came out. My mechanic said i need to have the car running and in neutral to fill/check to the proper level. should it be filled to the fill plug while the car is running or not running? apparently when it's not running the fluid drains from the lines, etc and will make the pan appear over filled, but while the motor is running the lines etc. are full and that's when you fill the pan to the fill level... does this sound right?

I've only posted this about eleventy billion times ...but here ya go...