Delivery day on Maui!

[Triathlete]

I bought brake pads to go all around and while I'm down there, I'll start troubleshooting my ABS. Still no worky, which explains wheel spin when I'm in 4 low with a wheel off the ground. As I understand it, that wheel should lock thus transfering torque to the other wheel on said axle. NOT!!

The TOD kicks in nicely on gravel roads. On pavement while driving I see one light on per side to the front axle. I'm sure the fluid is low, it has the symptoms but I've got that covered too.

ABS has nothing to do with wheel spin...only braking.
In 4Lo TOD is not in play. The transfer case simply splits the power 50/50 between front and rear axle. Your rear differential is a LSD. If one wheel loses traction the clutches heat up and engage the other wheel. The front differential is open. Only one wheel will spin...unless you (or the previous owner) have installed a locker. Only two lockers are available for the front Isuzu 10 bolt...the Aussie auto locker and the ARB selectable air locker.
Hope this helps your trouble shooting!

[Dino]

Thanks for the better understanding of the TOD.
That info will indeed help. Maybe someone put the wrong diff oil in. I've seen it happen before. I"ll be checking all the fluids anyway.

So, here's what I did with the parts:




...and here's the one that needs to be raised in order to tilt the glass:




The part is a roller assembly for glass shower doors. Just abourt every hardware store has them. I paid about $17 for four of them. I pulled the roller hardware off them, drilled holes in the proper locations and bolted them to the lift bar with two M6 bolts and nuts. Then I smeared some Weldwood contact cement (I didn't like the Goop stuff) onto the rubber pieces that I cut from the shower door bottom seal I bought. I placed them on the new clips, got the window in place and smeared some cement in the glass then pushed them together firmly. It took some doing to get the rubber to slip in the slot and pinch the glass, but it's there now and holding.

I tried it once going up and it worked fine. It just needs an overnight cure now. Before I put things back together I lubed the track with copper anti-sieze. Tomorrow I'll get some dry graphite powder into the rubber channels and free that friction point up a bit. I like it way better than silicone spray.

Total cost of mod, about $25 and an hour and a half of work.
Time will tell...

[Kenny]

I'm interested in the dry graphite in the rubber slides... Most of the stuff I tried other than silicone just gums up with dirt after a while.

Keep us posted. Nice fix.

[Dino]

I ended up using a bit of Rain-x and graphite!
Got em workin fine!!

I did the front and rear brake pads this morning and
I put two quarts of trans fluid in the tranny in using this...



...and this controlled the flow...


About 1 quart ended up back in the pan and I poured in 3 quarts.

We're about to load up and take a drive around the backside of the island and get it off road a bit.

[Kenny]

...
I put two quarts of trans fluid in the tranny in using this...

...

LOL!!! Right on!

[rowhard]

Bandit, thought you said you were a mechanic, looks more like something a nurse would use.

Pretty cool Dino

[TexVeX]

Well, he is nursing his vx back to health.

Cool contraption.