"Fog Light" wiring

[MSHardeman]

I am in the process of installing some fog lights in place of the round running lights in the front cladding. The new lights have an LED "Angel Eye" ring on them that I need to wire into the old running light wiring. Apparently the ring light needs to be hooked up positive to positive and negative to negative (I touched the wires to the battery and the ring only lights up when the wires are matched for polarity).

Does anyone know which wire is which on the original running light? I have Tone's shop manual, but can't seem to find it. If you know which wire is which, or where to find it in the manual, I would greatly appreciate it.

[nfpgasmask]

Mark, I have the electrical service manual. I will try to look at it for you tonight if no one replies today with a positive answer.

Bart

I am in the process of installing some fog lights in place of the round running lights in the front cladding. The new lights have an LED "Angel Eye" ring on them that I need to wire into the old running light wiring. Apparently the ring light needs to be hooked up positive to positive and negative to negative (I touched the wires to the battery and the ring only lights up when the wires are matched for polarity).

Does anyone know which wire is which on the original running light? I have Tone's shop manual, but can't seem to find it. If you know which wire is which, or where to find it in the manual, I would greatly appreciate it.

[Kenny]

I am in the process of installing some fog lights in place of the round running lights in the front cladding. The new lights have an LED "Angel Eye" ring on them that I need to wire into the old running light wiring. Apparently the ring light needs to be hooked up positive to positive and negative to negative (I touched the wires to the battery and the ring only lights up when the wires are matched for polarity).

Does anyone know which wire is which on the original running light? I have Tone's shop manual, but can't seem to find it. If you know which wire is which, or where to find it in the manual, I would greatly appreciate it.

Mark,

Yes, LEDs (in the angel eye rings) need to have correct polarity.
But you don't need a manual to figure out what wire is positive and what is negative. Even if you do have one, it's always best to physically test the wire polarity.

The best way to figure it out is to use a circuit tester and ground to the car frame. A simple one that lights up or a voltage tester will work (set on 20V DC). Connect the black wire of the tester to the frame, and poke the red wire to the fog light wires, which ever one lights up the tester - that's your (+) wire. If you're not getting a voltage, you may have to find a better ground on a bare metal bolt or another spot on your frame... good luck.

BTW, I probably have the same fogs with angel eyes, just waiting for some time to install em. I also plan to wire the two (ring and light) separately with a relay and switch. If that interests you, I can help you with that kind of wiring too.

P.S. Biju and I expect at least 5 more mods from you by next Moab .

[etlsport]

if you dont have a voltage tester i would just hook up one of the wires from the factory fog to your light ring, and connect the other to the neg. on the battery, if nothing happens, switch them.. whichever fog wire you are connected to is your positive

[MSHardeman]

Kenny,

Thanks for the advice. I have a voltage meter, but the battery is disconnected right now so I can do Moncha's auxillary fuse box mod. I think everything is connected correctly right now, so I can hook the batter back up for a little bit to test the wires.

As you can tell, I'm not terribly savy at car wiring, so any help I can get is much appreciated. I had thought about wiring the LED rings to a separate switch, but I think I'm just going to hook them up so they come on with the running lights. I have the fog lights, themselves, hooked up to a factory swith in the dash, so I'm good there.

My biggest problem right now is not wanting to cut the cladding. I had some weird thought that I might want to reinstall the factory running lights at some point in time so I was trying not to butcher the mounts for them. With that lip in the cladding in place it seems to push the angel eyes out too far, so I think I'm going to have to bite the bullet and cut the cladding so I can get the fog lights to recess nicely into the cladding. I will still need to get some sort of gasket to put around the lights to make them fit snuggly. Does anyone know where you can get some of that "v" shaped door/ window gasket? I think others have used it to replace the gasket around the headlights.

Thanks all. I'll post some pics when I'm done.

[biju]

Mark,

I used rubber fuel line sliced down the middle for the 'v' gasket... I went to checker auto and just asked to see their available rubber hoses by the foot.

-bij.

[Moncha]

I'm with Bill, I tried all kinds of stuff to make a trim gasket, the fuel line trick worked a treat!

About half way down this thread if you have not seen it.

http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...ewarticle&id=2

[Moncha]

Yes, Asa is right,, On the pretense that the light did not come with a relay. Only use a relay, the switch will not handle the load of the lights directly..

[uncle_asa]

Yes, Asa is right,, On the pretense that the light did not come with a relay. Only use a relay, the switch will not handle the load of the lights directly..

I actually missed that he has separate switch for the fog lights, so I deleted my post

[Moncha]

Ok, Asa, be that way Still a relay disclaimer nerver hurts!

mark, here is an Electrical TS Manual. http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...viewfile&id=19

Check page 110 (Manual) or 131 (Adobe page) and you will see the diagram for the front lights.. The hot is the one with the Green/Red and the black is ground.

[uncle_asa]

Another thing to do, once you already there, is to cut wires from the headlights and run them though relays, getting power from the "+" wire and attaching ground wire somewhere under the hood - it will make your dimmer to live longer and lights shine brighter. This is due to the Isuzu run ground wire via dimmer switch, so some power is lost on the long wire to the steering wheel then to the ground, and each time you use dimmer it connects high amperes...

[MSHardeman]

Thanks for all of the advice and information. Moncha, thanks for all of the links, you're a well spring of knowledge as always.

The lights did come with a relay, and that has been what has taken some time. I didn't want to mount the relay under the hood where it would be subject to water, dust, and heat and I didn't want to run wires across the engine bay to the drivers side where the switch is (the power is being drawn from Moncha's auxillary fuse box on the passenger side). I've been struggling to mount the relay behind the kick panel on the passenger side and have the wires run out of the rubber boot where half of the cars wires currently exit the firewall. The blower for the A/C unit is in the way so I've had to do some creative contorsions to get up to the boot and feed the new wires through. The wire to the switch will then run behind the dash over to the drivers side. Hopefully this will result in a very clean installation with very little wiring showing.

Hopefully I'll be able to get it done tonight.

LET THERE BE LIGHT.