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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Aug 2003
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    1999,Silver,Vehicross,0928
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    Quote Originally Posted by etlsport
    the front and rear signals on the pass side work together and drivers side work together, as long as you have the equivalent load with a strong load equaliz=er, the flasher will discharge at the same time doesnt really matter where the load is (ie one large load equalizer vs 2 smaller)

    if you want to calculate exactly what you need to make it exactly the same check this page out.. http://science.howstuffworks.com/question501.htm

    pretty cool...here is some quick number crunching to give you an idea of what you need/what happens w/ the equalizers i dont have the real numbers on the bulbs, but this should all be pretty close.. each "circuit" is a side of the car (ie passenger/driver)

    STOCK
    2 bulbs @ 27 watts each on each circuit (drivers side or passenger side)
    battery puts out 14volts
    2x27watts= 54watts total
    54 watts/14 volts = 3.9 amps
    ------
    with (1) 3 ohm equalizer per circuit and LED bulbs
    2 led bulbs @ 2 watts each
    1 load equalizer @ 3 ohms

    (2) bulbs x 2 watts = 4 watts
    4watts/14 volts = 0.29 amps (way too low by itself.. thats why your turn signal would flash like crazy.. so you add...)
    14 volts / 3 ohms = 4.6 amps

    =4.89 amps total ... a little higher than you need, but it will get the job done and its much better than .29 amps

    -----
    with (2) 15 ohm load equalizers

    4 watts / 14 volts = 0.29 amps

    14 volts/15 ohms = .9 amps (you would need two of these on each side (one on each bulb) so multiply by 2)
    =1.8 amps
    + amps from LED bulbs =2.19 amps a little low... but again much better than the 0.29 from the bulbs alone

    so yea.. i might be way off... it is 230 am and i had class from 8am -10 pm today...

    .. phew i need to be out of college already, see i learned how to apply what i learned in the real world!
    OH DEAR GOD.....i just had a corporate finance midterm, and there is way too many numbers in that paragraph

  2. #2
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
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    `99 Astral Silver #1327
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    Replacing the flasher module is a much more elegant solution.

    Well, it's actually rather difficult to get it installed up under the dash. But it is cleaner than using 3ohm heat generators.

    Flasher EP34 fits our rigs: http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

    I changed mine, works like a charm.


    If you still want to use load equalizers I will send you my old ones for free, just cover the shipping.

  3. #3
    Member Since
    Apr 2003
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    2000, Victory White, IronMan edition, #0329
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    I popped in the flasher module last year when I converted to LED, yes, once you find it, its easy to remove... the replacement is a little harder to get in since you are totally working by feel.

    Once in it works very well and I cant recommend it enough.
    The only weird thing is the clicking sound, seems to come from behind the CD player .. (even with the stereo off!)

    Oh, I have had bad luck with the 'newer' matrix 194 bulbs, Where half or all of the unit would burn out after a couple months (just past warranty). I went with the older matrix unit, and havent had a problem at all.
    ~ ~ ~
    Van Eyes - slightly trimmed, Sylvania SilverStar ULTRA head lamps, Red (port) & green (starboard) 5 LED 'headlight horn' lights, PIAA silicone windshield wipers, K&N Filtercharger (in stock air box), MacNeil WeatherFlectors, Assorted cargo nets from previous vehicles, Optima red-top battery, Transmission Interceptor, 20 LED 'light tower' turn signals & brake lights, 18W PIAA W2 running lights, Trooper skid plates, Black Luverne step bars w/Tone's custom brackets

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