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  1. #1
    Member Since
    Feb 2007
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    '01, Proton, VehiCROSS, 0229
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    etlsport,

    wow, I didn't know that. I don't know what a load equalizer is. Would this be something autolumination.com would have and is it easy to install? This is all new to me. Thank you very much for the advice. If this is really difficult I'll just cancel those bulbs on my order.

    Thanks alot,

    Ty
    ---------

    Ty

  2. #2
    Member Since
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    nah its pretty easy, and yes autolumination does carry them.. i beleive moncha went with a 3ohm with good results, you may be able to email them and tell them what you are doing (let them know the wattage on the bulbs you are taking out) and they can recommend something for you, make sure to tell them you only want to put one equalizer in each circuit, they are easy to install, you just splice one end in before your bulb and one in right after your bulb (basically short circuit the bulb with a resistor) and that should take care of your problem, if you do a gallery search for load equalizer, moncha has some pics of his install, (theres also a write up on it in the review section) its the yellow AAA battery lookin thing spliced in with the blue scotch-lock connectors


    its a really easy install, the load equalizer is tied into the black wire going to the turn signal via blue scotch lock, red wire comes from there to load equalizer..red wire comes out of the other side of the equalizer and to the white connector, where its spliced with the green wire.. all you have to do is snap the connectors over the correct wires.. i dont even think it matters which side is connected to which wire, hardest part is probably positioning

    heres a link to monchas write ups

    http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...iewreview&id=4
    http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...iewreview&id=3

    pm or email me if u have any other q's
    Last edited by etlsport : 05/17/2007 at 10:18 PM Reason: add photos


    "Engineers believe if it ain't broke, it doesn't have enough features yet"

  3. #3
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    etlsport,

    AWESOME, thank you very much!

    He says "I used the 3ohm model thus using only one resistor on each circuit (lamp) for a total of 2."

    So that means I need 2 of these equalizers for the front turn signals and another 2 for the rear?

    The rear bulbs I want to use these:
    http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/S...searchbtn.y=13

    If I bought these, would they need separate equalizers?

  4. #4
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    the front and rear signals on the pass side work together and drivers side work together, as long as you have the equivalent load with a strong load equaliz=er, the flasher will discharge at the same time doesnt really matter where the load is (ie one large load equalizer vs 2 smaller)

    if you want to calculate exactly what you need to make it exactly the same check this page out.. http://science.howstuffworks.com/question501.htm

    pretty cool...here is some quick number crunching to give you an idea of what you need/what happens w/ the equalizers i dont have the real numbers on the bulbs, but this should all be pretty close.. each "circuit" is a side of the car (ie passenger/driver)

    STOCK
    2 bulbs @ 27 watts each on each circuit (drivers side or passenger side)
    battery puts out 14volts
    2x27watts= 54watts total
    54 watts/14 volts = 3.9 amps
    ------
    with (1) 3 ohm equalizer per circuit and LED bulbs
    2 led bulbs @ 2 watts each
    1 load equalizer @ 3 ohms

    (2) bulbs x 2 watts = 4 watts
    4watts/14 volts = 0.29 amps (way too low by itself.. thats why your turn signal would flash like crazy.. so you add...)
    14 volts / 3 ohms = 4.6 amps

    =4.89 amps total ... a little higher than you need, but it will get the job done and its much better than .29 amps

    -----
    with (2) 15 ohm load equalizers

    4 watts / 14 volts = 0.29 amps

    14 volts/15 ohms = .9 amps (you would need two of these on each side (one on each bulb) so multiply by 2)
    =1.8 amps
    + amps from LED bulbs =2.19 amps a little low... but again much better than the 0.29 from the bulbs alone

    so yea.. i might be way off... it is 230 am and i had class from 8am -10 pm today...

    .. phew i need to be out of college already, see i learned how to apply what i learned in the real world!
    Last edited by etlsport : 05/17/2007 at 11:39 PM

  5. #5
    Member Since
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    Quote Originally Posted by etlsport
    the front and rear signals on the pass side work together and drivers side work together, as long as you have the equivalent load with a strong load equaliz=er, the flasher will discharge at the same time doesnt really matter where the load is (ie one large load equalizer vs 2 smaller)

    if you want to calculate exactly what you need to make it exactly the same check this page out.. http://science.howstuffworks.com/question501.htm

    pretty cool...here is some quick number crunching to give you an idea of what you need/what happens w/ the equalizers i dont have the real numbers on the bulbs, but this should all be pretty close.. each "circuit" is a side of the car (ie passenger/driver)

    STOCK
    2 bulbs @ 27 watts each on each circuit (drivers side or passenger side)
    battery puts out 14volts
    2x27watts= 54watts total
    54 watts/14 volts = 3.9 amps
    ------
    with (1) 3 ohm equalizer per circuit and LED bulbs
    2 led bulbs @ 2 watts each
    1 load equalizer @ 3 ohms

    (2) bulbs x 2 watts = 4 watts
    4watts/14 volts = 0.29 amps (way too low by itself.. thats why your turn signal would flash like crazy.. so you add...)
    14 volts / 3 ohms = 4.6 amps

    =4.89 amps total ... a little higher than you need, but it will get the job done and its much better than .29 amps

    -----
    with (2) 15 ohm load equalizers

    4 watts / 14 volts = 0.29 amps

    14 volts/15 ohms = .9 amps (you would need two of these on each side (one on each bulb) so multiply by 2)
    =1.8 amps
    + amps from LED bulbs =2.19 amps a little low... but again much better than the 0.29 from the bulbs alone

    so yea.. i might be way off... it is 230 am and i had class from 8am -10 pm today...

    .. phew i need to be out of college already, see i learned how to apply what i learned in the real world!
    OH DEAR GOD.....i just had a corporate finance midterm, and there is way too many numbers in that paragraph

  6. #6
    Member Since
    Jun 2002
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    `99 Astral Silver #1327
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    Replacing the flasher module is a much more elegant solution.

    Well, it's actually rather difficult to get it installed up under the dash. But it is cleaner than using 3ohm heat generators.

    Flasher EP34 fits our rigs: http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

    I changed mine, works like a charm.


    If you still want to use load equalizers I will send you my old ones for free, just cover the shipping.

  7. #7
    Member Since
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    2000, Victory White, IronMan edition, #0329
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    I popped in the flasher module last year when I converted to LED, yes, once you find it, its easy to remove... the replacement is a little harder to get in since you are totally working by feel.

    Once in it works very well and I cant recommend it enough.
    The only weird thing is the clicking sound, seems to come from behind the CD player .. (even with the stereo off!)

    Oh, I have had bad luck with the 'newer' matrix 194 bulbs, Where half or all of the unit would burn out after a couple months (just past warranty). I went with the older matrix unit, and havent had a problem at all.
    ~ ~ ~
    Van Eyes - slightly trimmed, Sylvania SilverStar ULTRA head lamps, Red (port) & green (starboard) 5 LED 'headlight horn' lights, PIAA silicone windshield wipers, K&N Filtercharger (in stock air box), MacNeil WeatherFlectors, Assorted cargo nets from previous vehicles, Optima red-top battery, Transmission Interceptor, 20 LED 'light tower' turn signals & brake lights, 18W PIAA W2 running lights, Trooper skid plates, Black Luverne step bars w/Tone's custom brackets

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