I'm not quite sure about the number of cranks on the torsion bars for lifting an inch since every spring is different, but I know that on mine, they were fairly loose most of the way and that when they began to became harder to turn is where most of the actual lift came from. Also, as a side note, it is much easier to turn the bolts when the front end is off the ground, so you aren't having to lift it by turning the bolts.Originally Posted by Grand_Canyon_VXer
As far as the "OME springs 1.25 medium" statement, I'm not real sure what you mean there, but most people I have heard of use OME 912 springs to lift and it is around 3" -period. To lift less in the rear(sounds like you're after an inch or so, you may want to consider using either polyurethane spring spacer along with your normal springs, or, what I did was use an adjustable steel spring spacer which allows you to more or less dial in the exact amount of lift you are going for just like the front. They cost less than a set of coil springs, less shipping cost, are adjustable, and then you don't have a set of stock springs lying around taking up space somewhere.
If you are only going an inch, you probably won't need to flip the ball joints, especially for what's involved to do it. Mine were held in there extremely well and I destroyed the boot getting one side out. I'm not trying to discourage the balljoint flip mod, but unless you actually need it, I don't think it's worth the risk. Although if you are going up higher, it does make the vehicle easier to align-which is absolutely necessary if you lift it even a little bit.
Reply With Quote