Simple Lift Questions

[cyronman]

No lift required here...just a B.F.H., and a couple of whacks

Chopper-
Yeah, first time around I thought I got it. Then the tire caught the corner of the cladding and pulled it out away from the frame. It was split and stuck out, so it flapped against the tire. I had to tuck the split piece under the other (inner) piece of cladding, bend the frame in a little, it in some more, and finally zip-tied it flat. I am questioning if raising the front a hair would keep that edge out of the turning radius.
Maybe my H isn't as FB as I thought

[MrCrowley]

The ball joint flip really is for giving your front articulation a little more drop.

Some folks have "leveled" the truck by torsion cranking only until truck is level, not nose-down stock, adjust headlights as they will be pointing up more. This may decrease rubbing, but not much.

Lifting will probably fix rubbing. Headlights may not have to be adjusted if you raise F/R equally. Longer coil springs will increase travel of rear articulation-especially when rear sway bar disconnected. Stiffer coil springs will ride nice and sporty, and increase your rear cargo loads from drooping the back of truck and ride nicer- tows better as well. Stock springs w/ spacers will lift, but keep stock travel- which is adequate.

Good Luck!

[ZEUS]

The ball joint flip really is for giving your front articulation a little more drop.

The ball joint flip is really for alignment issues after lifting, but you are right, it ALSO does allow a little more down travel. Didn't even think of that until you mentioned it. However, doing the bj flip without a lift may screw with the geometry in the opposite direction people try to compensate for after lifting. When installing the low profile snubbers and flipping the bj's on my VX, I measured less than a 1" increase in down travel.