timing belt jumped

[Y33TREKker]

While it's hard to tell looking at the cd manual, the tensioner rod appears to be the same type of hydraulic tensioner that's used on my other vehicle. In my opinion, this would be the most likely of the related timing belt components that could fail and cause the results you've experienced. Regardless of whether it failed or not though, if you're having the timing belt service done at this time, $75 for a new tensioner would be relatively cheap piece of mind for such an important component.

Do all of the other pulleys the timing belt rides on seem intact? These would include the pulleys on the crankshaft, the camshafts, the water pump, the idler pulley, and the tensioner pulley. I doubt there would be a problem with the camshaft pulleys, but they should have no lateral or radial play. Same for the camshaft pulley. Regardless of how the water pump/pulley feels, I'd still say replace it anyway.

As far as the idler and tensioner pulleys go, if they turn easy, and no lateral or radial play can be felt, you could probably leave them as is, and is probably what Merlin meant when he said he thought you would be in good shape just replacing the rod/tensioner. (For what it's worth, when I did the timing belt job on my other vehicle, I replaced the water pump, the idler pulley, and the tensioner pulley as a just-in-case precaution, especially since I had it all apart anyway. That's just me though).

If the $55 is for a factory belt, I doubt you'll find a better price. And for an item like that, I'd personally stick with a well-known brand like Goodyear or Gates too.

IndianaVX --- More info on the interferance/non interferance issue, PLEASE, thank you !!!! (mechanic did say the other day, that they had read in a bullitin, or something saying " the engine may, or may not be an interferance engine."

Don't know about that at the moment, but...damn, you'd think that a factory(?) bulletin would be a bit more specific regarding such an important issue.

[VehiGAZ]

Indiana - I have a suggestion for you based on what happened with my wife's old Passat...

See if you can get your mechanic to make the case to the warranty company that something other than the t-belt failed, and they may cover the work. The Passat's tensioner pulley assembly came apart and messed up the works. If the belt had broken, it was our responsibility, but since something else caused the belt to fail, it was all covered by her extended warranty - I only paid for them to put a new serpentine belt on when they put it back together... a $38 t-belt replacement!

Good luck!

[Tone]

I was wrong when I posted yesterday the 6VE1 was an Interference engine. I've checked with about a dozen engine publications online and they all agree concur it is a NON INTERFERENCE engine (most older Isuzu's were interference), except this site: http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...ming_belt3.htm

There have been several owners here who have had the belt fail and NOT had catastrophic engine failure. I was in no hurry to change mine for that very reason that if it failed, at least the valves and pistons wouldn't meet - BUT, a broken belt could sure do some damage.

[JAFO]

How was it that you noticed the timing belt jumped? Was the engine running funny? I'm assumming, that if it jumped that it through the timing out of sync?

Also I'm glad that they are covering it for you. When I had my Jeep Wrangler the company that I had wouldn't repair anything. Everything fell into the loop hole called "Wear Items" which was not covered.

[kpaske]

IndianaVX - I concur with Merlin, I think it was more than likely a worn tensioner that allowed the belt to skip in the first place, so you should most definitely replace it. However, if you're going to take everything apart, you might as well replace the belt (and possibly the water pump also). I personally did NOT replace my water pump because I couldn't really spare the extra $150 at the time, but normally I prefer to err on the side of caution. Either way, replace the belt and tensioner and you're good to go for another 75-100k miles. Replace only the tensioner and you'll just have to tear it down again in 36k miles.

A word of warning - Mark is 100% correct about NOT rotating the cam shafts once the belt has been removed. Much of the published information is incorrect, and if you follow the CD manual letter for letter, you'll screw up your timing and the cam shafts will need to be reindexed. I know because I made that mistake myself and wound up having to have a shop complete the job for me. There is a TSB that explains the issues, and the correct way to reindex your cam shafts. The shop that does the work should have access to this TSB, but I also have a copy somewhere. If you need it I'll dig it up for you (please PM me). In all likelihood they will need to do this reindexing, since your belt skipped and the timing is probably off now.

FWIW, I also concur with Tone - I am under the understanding that this motor is, in fact, NON-INTERFERENCE.

[Ldub]

kpaske,

If you do find the TSB on cam timing, how about forwarding it to Moncha to add to the download section.

That right there could be some handy information to have.

[Tobert]

Weird. I totally had my cams & stuff all out of whack and I don't remember having any particular trouble getting it all lined up. It was mostly a pain in the butt because the cams wanted to snap out of place due to valve spring pressure.

I followed the CD manual's procedure. Maybe I got lucky?

[psychos2]

How was it that you noticed the timing belt jumped? Was the engine running funny? I'm assumming, that if it jumped that it through the timing out of sync?

The ignition timing would not be off. But the cam timing would be. shawn