grober02 did you sell your 22's?
How was the ride on them?
grober02 did you sell your 22's?
How was the ride on them?
I'm not 100% sure, but I think the Calmini kit just lifts the rear with springs and the front by cranking the torsion bars. So my answer would be no, you should just be able to install the kit. The question is, why Calmini? If you've been searching here, you'll find the consensus is that replacing the springs (usually with OME spings), rear shocks, and cranking the torsion bars is a better option than the Calmini kit.
Check out this article for more information about the Isuzu suspension: http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/amigolift/?
Calmini Cone Air Filter, PowerVault PV2 Muffler, OME Trooper Springs, Rancho RS9000X Shocks, 285/75R16 Nitto Grappler AT's, Pioneer DEH P8000R In-Dash CD, Amps and Drivers Built by Orion, Wires and Fuse Blocks by KnuKonceptz, Vibration Damping by BQuiet, Alarm System featuring Auto Start and Remote Windows, Yakima LoadWarrior w/Full Size Spare, Debadged/Custom Titanium Grill Logo, Tint (5% Rear / 20% Front), Steel Braided Brake Lines, G2 Painted Calipers
Yes, I know Vx r's here do not think highly of the Calmini kit. But, out of convenience, I decided to go with the Calmini kit because I do need front and rear shocks and shops around York, PA will not install equipment unless it's explicitly spec'd for the VX. My VX suspension took a major beating from my 22-inchers and low-profile tires--the ride has been compared to a roller coaster ride at Hershey Park. I probably could tackle the rear mods myself, but this is all besides the point anyway. My question is just whether the shop is going to be "smart" enough to figure out that I already cranked the torsion bars 2 inches so they don't crank them excessively. This shop has never worked on a VX before, and they were hesitant to begin with even installing a kit built for the vehicle. Not being a mechanic, I don't know if they check manufacturer's specs before making these modifications to ensure that someone didn't already make previous adjustments. As for the Calmini springs, maybe I'll take monthly pics to document their gradual sagging; then everyone can tell me I told you so...I'm not known for making smart purchases, but I do have a VX!
Seriously, though, if someone could answer my question, it'd be appreciated.
if it were me, id go ahead and lower the torsion bars back to their original position, if the shop then installs the lift and things dont look right, they can raise it back up the 2 inches.. then its their fault if somethin goes wrong
OR...you could tell the shop to adjust the suspension so that there is an equal distance between the top of each tire & the top of the fender well.(after the new parts are installed)
That ought to be real close, & you could tweak the T-bars later if you wanted a little more or less clearance in the front.![]()
So LDUB, you are saying that the distance between the fender and the top of the wheel should be the same for all 4 corners? Makes sense. I really don't want to tell them that the T-bars just need adjusted another 1 inch to equal 3 inches total (w/ my adjustments), incase my measurements are off a little. I'd rather they figure it out on their own, so maybe I'll just make LDUB's suggested request. At this point, re-adjusting the T-bars before taking it to the shop is not an option. I did this to test fit my 33" Interco Super Swampers which I did manage to fit--I won't have time to pull them off and turn the t-bars tonite after work. With only 2 inches of front lift, they only scrape minor with 3/4 turn. At full turn, I have no fender scraping. I figured if I could fit them with minimal lift, I should be fine with 3 inches of lift later. Yes, I hacked away a good bit of plastic and metal, but I think it looks okay. My only other question would be that I've seen a few VX'rs have raised the front 3.5" instead of 3". For someone who does not do a lot of off-roading, do you think I could get away with this and not stress the CVs too much.