Yet another lift question post

[ZEUS]

Here is a link to poly sway bar bushings with part numbers:


http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...rgy+suspension

[Ascinder]

Hmm looks like some time with some sheet steel, an abrasive wheel, die grinder and a welder and we're all set......better make sure to PM BigmeatVX to see if there are any more particulars though

Also, as it so happens I was looking at, but forgot to include that I'm getting those greaseable bushings. Coincidentally enough, they sell them at Summit motorsports which happens to have their regional distribution hub right here in Sparks(Reno), NV!!!

[Ascinder]

Something to consider with 33's is the loss in torque, braking ability and acceleration you will suffer. So I recommend, the braided brake lines, and deeper gears (I have 4.77's which are rare but you can still find 4.56's or 5.38's - stock VX has 4.33's).

So where can I find these gears and how much do they typically run. Also, how do you like those 4.77s? They seem like they would be the best choice as far as being midrange between the 4.33s and 5.38s, with the 4.56s seemingly offering little improvement over stock.

[ZEUS]

The gears are my favorite mod but they are a p.i.t.a. if you don't get the install right the first time. I had issues with my install and I am going to have to pull my front axle out again just to replace the outer pinion bearing. I would like to get the 285/65/18 A/T's, the poly spacers, new RS 9000's, HD tie rods, braided brake lines, and rebuild the front end at the same time. Otherwise, you are right, the 4.77's are the best option but they are rare and hard to find. You would have to scrounge the junk yards for them. Apparently, the difference is one tooth in the... I can't remember if it is the ring gear or the pinion but the difference is one tooth so you need to be on your game when you are looking. SPAZZ is the local guru when it comes to 4.77 knowledge. I bought mine from him - he even helped me put mine in. I paid him $1000 total for both 3rd's. I have better knowledge of my VX after spending a weekend with SPAZZ while doing the install. If you are going to swap 3rd members, make sure you have a preload tool on hand or available or you will have to guess the amount of pressure to put on the bearings and you may end up in my situation.

The power is great though and it makes it easier to turn oversized tires which helped my gas mileage and saves wear and tear on the motor.

[Ascinder]

Anybody try using these as opposed to new springs and spacers? They are used in sprint car(among other types of) racing to adjust spring height and to incorporate coil over suspensions. They fit 5-5.5 inch diameter springs and give an adjustable 2.5 inches of lift. There are two types I found. The smaller one goes from 0" to 2.5" and the larger one starts at 3 1/8" and goes to 5 1/4". They run $25 each for the little ones and $30 each for the big ones. I think I'll try them instead of paying several hundred dollars for a new set of springs and some poly spacers. Lucky for me, my work just bought a brand new miller plasma cutter, so at this point I am planning to take out my differential drop brackets and extend them some 2" or so. This should allow me to crank the t-bars 4" up front, and I'll use two of the larger versions of these in the back.

[JHarris1385]

912's are $66 bucks. Very interested in this. I want to drop by diff. You should also think about stinkfab joint arms, with your increased lift those will be expose more.

[Ascinder]

912's are $66 each, plus more $$ for shipping, and since I need to go higher than 2.5", I have to get the poly spacers which are $100-$110, which brings the total with shipping to pretty close to $250+. These total $60 for the pair, plus shipping if you get the bigger ones. I am really excited too. Now what is this stinkyfab joint arm thing you mentioned?

[ZEUS]

Anybody try using these as opposed to new springs and spacers? This should allow me to crank the t-bars 4" up front, and I'll use two of the larger versions of these in the back.

If you are going to lift your VX 4" and a solid axle swap is out of the question then save yourself some time and just reindex your torsion bars instead of trying to crank 4" out of them, then realizing you need to take them out to reindex them anyway. Maybe you already realized this but 4" is a lot... your A-arms are going to be at a serious angle - great ground clearance but the handling and ride will suffer. You don't need to go 4" to fit those A/T's unless you want some heavily offset wheels. Just trying to help - I hope I don't seem like a know it all - I'm just trying to post based on my own experiences.

[Ascinder]

Ok, I'm not at all familiar with this reindexing the torsion bars thing. I just read in an older post that someone had accidentally gone up to 4 inches and didn't have a good way to do that with the rears and make the whole diff drop thing work. What would I have to do to reindex them? The reason I was looking for 4" is because when I look at a lot of these VXs with 3inch lifts, they don't seem to have very much travel between the fender well and tire. I was just looking for the extra inch to gain a little suspension travel. I talked with Ldub and he said he had to switch out wheels to go offroading so his wheels don't rub.