rebuild

[MoonRaker]

A leak down test would be expensive, since you would have to remove the cams. shawn

Just bar the motor over and do 1 hole at a time. A motor job costs 7,000 or more for the VX by a dealer. Im sure a leakdown test dosnt cost that much.

[MoonRaker]

As it sits ive spent $1250 sofar on parts and machining. Ive done everything except the nicol coating and since the motor has steel sleeves and dosnt require it but that would have been optimal. I need to get some bearings for a pully or 2, probly another 20 bucks.

[psychos2]

Just bar the motor over and do 1 hole at a time. A motor job costs 7,000 or more for the VX by a dealer. Im sure a leakdown test dosnt cost that much.

To properly do a leakdown test you need to remove the cams.If you were to cheat and not remove the cams you would have to try to hold the crank in one spot so it does not turn.. And this test would not tell you if you had a stuck oil ring anyway. It would tell you if you had a valve issue, or a compression ring issue. So this test would not even tell you if you had a stuck oil ring.You work in a motor shop?? shawn

[MoonRaker]

Yeh, were the best in the US on rotarys. Yes, 1 of the compression rings were cracked. This is the 2nd motor that ive herd of that had the oil rings sticking with bad springs and I called it as the problem before I stripped the motor down. No I didnt do any leakdown test because it already showed signs of potential total failer so what was the point.

[ZEUS]

Were you able to take as many pictures as you'd hoped, since you were in a hurry?

[MoonRaker]

Only of the disassembly.

[Knigh7s]

Hey MoonRaker, I was wondering what happened to yuh. hope all is well. If you still want to finish that write up with your pictures let me know. I still have all the stuff from earlier this year that we worked on. I did get a chance to upgrade the website aswell.

[ZEUS]

Only of the disassembly.

That sucks... taking things apart is easy, putting them back together is what needs visual explanation. Would still be interested in the write-up though.

[MoonRaker]

I was thinking that but I was so in depth with the assembly I didnt have much of a chance to take pictures. I can say a couple of things though. I noticed that the crank and rod bearings were brand new, they even still had the machine cut marks with no visable wear. 5 of the 6 cylenders were perfect also showing no wear, you could still see the hone marks in even the bad hole, there was 2 much uneven wear in the hole that housed the cracked ring. Everything was brown from the blowby but cleaned up better then expected. Things are going together pretty quickly, I lost the head dowls so I need to track them down today. Ive also bought new head bolts since I had to drill 4 out. The holes were bored out 10 over and the heads to block surfaces were decked for a perfect seal.