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Thread: Serious Engine Trouble

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  1. #1
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zorak
    Question I would have about Shawn's mod: if you eliminate the vacuum source at the PCV valve (by plugging the hose), doesn't the valve then stay closed all the time? If you are leaving the valve in place on the valve cover and attaching a breather filter to the valve where the vacuum hose used to be, is crankcase pressure enough to open the valve to allow the oil vapors to vent through the breather?
    It works just the opposite. When there is vacuum it is closed , so that it does not suck oil out. So what is actually happening is the PCV valve is not closing. They make elbows you could use or even put the breather directly into the valve cover.If you are worried about the motor not breathing but it is not needed, it will be fine with the pcv valve still in. I will try to post some pics but I have to borrow a camera to do so. shawn
    1COOLVX

  2. #2
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    Thumbs up

    I'd lend you my camera but your about as far away you can get! Either way, if you can give us non-gear heads a step-by-step with photos that would be awesome and I would be eternally thankful.

    In fact, I was thinking of adding a "how-to section" to my site for common stuff so I could host the pics for you if needed.

    Thanks man!

    Bart

    Quote Originally Posted by psychos2
    It works just the opposite. When there is vacuum it is closed , so that it does not suck oil out. So what is actually happening is the PCV valve is not closing. They make elbows you could use or even put the breather directly into the valve cover.If you are worried about the motor not breathing but it is not needed, it will be fine with the pcv valve still in. I will try to post some pics but I have to borrow a camera to do so. shawn

  3. #3
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    No pics yet?

  4. #4
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    The issue with alumimium engine blocks and steel oil control rings is wear and compensatory oil loss. due to vacuum increase. Psychos is right to alleviate the suction problem via breather application. But you also need to make sure the engine is sealed up tight in the first place. Said differently, make sure the oil filler port is closed tight. Make sure your filler o-ring is in good shape or replaced every few years. If the systen leaks at any juncture it will cause the engine vacuum effect to be magnified and the PCV will remain open when it should be shut and oil will be sucked in and burned.

  5. #5
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    So, does anyone now if it has steel sleeves or is it nicol coated alumminum or what im worried about, just aluminum. If its just aluminum im sending the block to millennium. http://www.mt-llc.com/index_home.shtml even if its scored nicol. If it breakes fix it better.
    Last edited by MoonRaker : 01/28/2007 at 09:36 PM

  6. #6
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    I have a 99 Ironman with roughly 100k and mine has had the same problem for about the last 20k. I found out mine was leaking oil due to a cracked rear main seal, which only costs about 150 bucks to replace. Instead I just put a quart of oil in every once and a while as it slowly leaked. Well I took to long the last time and ran it dry while driving in town, so like a good little engine it seized up, and now my VX is sitting in the back yard gaining dust.

    I have been looking for an engine but their to expensive, so im going to just take it somewhere and have them rebuild it, probably for a couple thousand, there is no way I could do it myself.

    So anyways mine was the cracked rear main seal.

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