This might be worth a shot...
www.powerpro2000.com
Super VXer
Super VXer
Super VXer
Question I would have about Shawn's mod: if you eliminate the vacuum source at the PCV valve (by plugging the hose), doesn't the valve then stay closed all the time? If you are leaving the valve in place on the valve cover and attaching a breather filter to the valve where the vacuum hose used to be, is crankcase pressure enough to open the valve to allow the oil vapors to vent through the breather?
Super VXer
It works just the opposite. When there is vacuum it is closed , so that it does not suck oil out. So what is actually happening is the PCV valve is not closing. They make elbows you could use or even put the breather directly into the valve cover.If you are worried about the motor not breathing but it is not needed, it will be fine with the pcv valve still in. I will try to post some pics but I have to borrow a camera to do so. shawnOriginally Posted by Zorak
1COOLVX
Super VXer
I'd lend you my camera but your about as far away you can get! Either way, if you can give us non-gear heads a step-by-step with photos that would be awesome and I would be eternally thankful.
In fact, I was thinking of adding a "how-to section" to my site for common stuff so I could host the pics for you if needed.
Thanks man!
Bart
'Zoid
No pics yet?
Super VXer
The issue with alumimium engine blocks and steel oil control rings is wear and compensatory oil loss. due to vacuum increase. Psychos is right to alleviate the suction problem via breather application. But you also need to make sure the engine is sealed up tight in the first place. Said differently, make sure the oil filler port is closed tight. Make sure your filler o-ring is in good shape or replaced every few years. If the systen leaks at any juncture it will cause the engine vacuum effect to be magnified and the PCV will remain open when it should be shut and oil will be sucked in and burned.
Super VXer
So, does anyone now if it has steel sleeves or is it nicol coated alumminum or what im worried about, just aluminum. If its just aluminum im sending the block to millennium. http://www.mt-llc.com/index_home.shtml even if its scored nicol. If it breakes fix it better.
Last edited by MoonRaker : 01/28/2007 at 09:36 PM
Member
I have a 99 Ironman with roughly 100k and mine has had the same problem for about the last 20k. I found out mine was leaking oil due to a cracked rear main seal, which only costs about 150 bucks to replace. Instead I just put a quart of oil in every once and a while as it slowly leaked. Well I took to long the last time and ran it dry while driving in town, so like a good little engine it seized up, and now my VX is sitting in the back yard gaining dust.
I have been looking for an engine but their to expensive, so im going to just take it somewhere and have them rebuild it, probably for a couple thousand, there is no way I could do it myself.
So anyways mine was the cracked rear main seal.
VXer
I hear ya ...
TM I can't tell you how bad I feel for you. I haven't posted this, but a similar occurence happened to me at 65K miles. I took my recently acquired VX into the local dealer for the 60K maintenance ($1,000) and also because she was running like crap. Turns out the cat had basically disintegrated and plugged up the exhaust (replaced under 8-year Federal warranty); an O2 sensor was fried ($250) and the transmission component that "talks" to the ECU about shift points, etc. (?) was fried as well (another $250).
After fixing (and paying for) all that I come to pick her up and they notify me that the engine is basically toast due to rod knock (spun or seized and deformed piston rod bearing on crank shaft which does not allow engine to maintain the needed oil pressure and adequately lubricate engine).
Well, now I've sunk $1,500 in a vehicle that doesn't run and talk to the dealer about engine replacement. They want over $6,000+ for a new crate engine and another $1,500 for installation.
If the crank has been scored by a spun bearing, you'll need to replace it. A new crank will run you $1,500.
I also priced re-built long-blocks and talked to powerpro (above) as well as four others. The only engine rebuilder that had an Isuzu 3.5L was Rhino Engine; $3,900 for the long-block with a 3-year, 100,000 warranty. The new dealer engine at $6K+ had only a 1-year, 12,000 warranty.
I went with Rhino and talked the dealer down to $1,100 install since I just blew $1,000 on the 60K service for nothing...
After 2,000 miles, the engine is running strong and (as always) I check my oil with every fill up and carry two quarts (5w-30 M1 Syn) just in case. So far I've only needed to add 1/4 quart.
I know this has happened to others as well and do believe that, in this case, Isuzu could've done a bit more design, engineering and testing on this engine. That said, this is my fourth Isuzu and the the only one I've had any trouble with; the vehicle, to me, is still worth it as I've wanted one since they came out and know (generally) how stout they are built.
Like I said, I feel for you (BTDT) and it's a hard decision. Please let me know if I can add any more insight.
Best,
Super VXer
I borrowed a camera and will post pics as soon as I can. Keep in mind it is 29 degrees out and is supposed to get colder. shawn
Super VXer
Cool man! Thanks for all your effort!
Bart
Super VXer
Ive been dreading the rebuild and putting it off. Ive been reading alot on the history of problems with this peticuler engine. Im a very reputable engine builder so ive got alot of experiance from my 15 years of building. I work at Email address pettitracing,com and have been there since 04, the yellow RX-8 belongs to me. From the info ive seen it lookes like the main problem stems from sticking oil seals on the pistons. It causes excessive blow-by and from what ive seen breakes down the oil very fast causing lots of problems before you figure out whats wrong. Ive herd of crank bearings going out causing crank failure and also rod bearings. Im lucky to the fact of catching the problem early. It seems to happen from 50,000 to 80,000 miles. Im not shure if its from going to long between oil changes or carbon biuldup but im thinking that its the main cause. Even though a former owner sludged the oil and I have gotten 30,000 miles since perchase. Maintnence or lack of tends to hurt the VX. As good as it still runs im willing to bet that oil rings are the only thing thats wrong with my engine so far. Bearings and seals are getting replaced for shure though. I replaced the PCV valve and found that cleaning it or replacing it helps for about 2000 miles. As for pluging the hose, bad idea unless you dont mind blowing seals like the ones on your valve cover. That PCV valve is there to vent and if its getting clogged its from blow-by. Thats what im talking about. Id like to ask for some help and ill return the favor if anyone is local to WPB. Im disabled to the point of not being able [ 2 shattered vertabre] to pull the motor out of my VX. If you need a rebuild on your motor or tranny I can do everything except lift heavy stuff. I need help pulling it and reinstalling. If you fix this problem early im shure it wont be as bad as you think. I dont play when it comes to the details.
Last edited by MoonRaker : 01/25/2007 at 06:59 PM
Super VXer
Wow, new set of ring, only $50. Oil pump seems the most expensive thing, $250. Gaskets are cheap to. At the price of what a new engine is going for, im thinking of doing rebuilds for $1500 plus parts and machinind. Its looking like its going to be around $800 in parts sofar. Not bad.
Super VXer
First of all WHAT OIL SEALS ON THE PISTON ??? Second excessive blow-by is not caused from bad oil rings. Third the hose that gets plugged goes to the intake not the valve cover. You put a breather on the valve cover. Forth it is not getting clogged it is sticking open so when there is vacuum it is sucking oil.
I am willing to bet that most of the problems stem from lack of oil not broken down oil. For example, my low oil light came on ,so I added oil now my engine is making a noise.
I have seen motors with so much fuel in the oil that it has the consistency of fuel not oil. The motors are still running with no spun bearings.
I have seen my motor suck down 2 qts of oil in less than 500 miles. Once the problem of the sticking pcv valve was fixed it would use approx 1/2 of a quart of oil in 3000 miles.
The biggest cause for spun bearings would have to be lack of oil.Metal on metal is a bad thing. shawn
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