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  1. #1
    Member Since
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    ok guys i think i did my research....heres what i have come up with after reading bigmeat's information...these are the parts needed...please correct me if im wrong...
    bump stop change off 89 trooper for rear
    front axle drop
    4" jeep springs with 1" spacer
    change tie rods
    sway bar disconnects
    different upper A-arms
    remove upper bump stop
    trim lower bumpstop 1/2 inch
    upper ball joint flip with 3/4 inch spacer
    spacer on lower ball joint flip 1/2 inch
    Replace outer front cross-member bolts (2) with lower profile Hex head units (to clear lower A-arm)
    add another rubber bushing UNDER the top shock mount (1/2")
    longer shocks

    alright, thats what i came up with...seems like some custom work, but not a lot of money...sorry about all the trouble guys...but oh well it will give you something to talk about and do at work =)
    im curious about doing this for myself but it depends on how obtainable it is considering i cant do all that custom work myself because i dont have the tools or the know how....but im sure i can talk to predator offroad and they could help me out..

  2. #2
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    Um, an SAS may be cheaper and more practicle, especially if you plan on using it. 36" tires + 10 bolt axle = you better get used to changing broken CV/axle shafts.
    Also a gearing change would be highly needed unless you like pulling away from stoplight like driving a Yugo!
    Billy Oliver
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  3. #3
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    Former Owner of 'ZEUS' aka 1031
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    Yeah, what he said! Big tires put big strain on parts so don't assume you would be done all of a sudden. Basically, consider the long haul differences. A beefy drivetrain is much more valuable than the money you may save in the beginning of an IFS build-up.
    Sent from my "two hands on a keyboard"

  4. #4
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    hmm thats kinda depressing to hear that you think that an SAS would be cheaper and more practical...it was sounding like this type of lift just took a lot of customizing and research...guess ill have to keep saving =(

  5. #5
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    Pardon my ignorance, but what the heck does "SAS" stand for? I always say "SAS" when I am walking the mall with my wife, but in my case it stands for "Sweaty *** Syndrome". So, in regards to 4x4 build ups, what is a "SAS"??

    Sorry again, but I just gotta ask cause it doesn't make sense contextually with my abbreviation.

    Bart

  6. #6
    Member Since
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    99 Astral Silver VX #1872 + 99 Ironman WIP
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    Arrow

    Solid

    Axle

    Swap


  7. #7
    Member Since
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    PB
    You may be surprised. The SAS may be cheaper than all the "custom" stuff. One-off's can cost mucho dinero $$$$$$$$$$$$$. For a linked SAS you basically need an axle ($200-600 at u-pull lots), some tubing for the links, joint end of some sort, mount brackets, shocks/springs and a steering set up. If you have a local 4x4 fab shop swing by and talk to them. They can probably give you a rough idea of cost. If you plan on running the big meats the SAS is definately the way to go...unless of course you like trail repairs!

  8. #8
    Member Since
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    pbkid -

    The problem with lifting the VX even a couple of inches is that it places the CV joints (front half axle) at a sharper angle than they were designed for. There is all sorts of information posted here about how to compensate for that, including purchasing custom diff drop brackets, but it's best to understand early on that the VX suspension is fairly limited in how it can be modified without replacing major components.

    Everyone considering a lift and bigger tires should also be aware that the consequences go much further than torn CV boots. Neither the tranny nor the drivetrain were designed to accomodate tires larger than 30". Lifting your VX and putting on 33" tires will seriously decrease performance. Getting it back requires major modifications, such as a gear swap (for which parts are extremely rare) and a supercharger or engine swap.

    If you're going to go through all the trouble and expense to modify your suspension and drivetrain, it might be wise to consider whether an SAS would be the better solution. I'm assuming that Big Meat's custom work was to lift the body, because there isn't much more that can be done to the suspension that hasn't already been done by many (besides an SAS).

    SAS = Solid Axle Swap. It basically entails replacing much of the front suspension and both axles with something beefier. Most of the parts should be easily obtainable from older Isuzu/GM trucks from the junk yards, but I'm sure it would require a good deal of custom welding. When SPAZZ comes back around he'll probably chime in with all sorts of good details on how to do this (or search some older threads).
    Calmini Cone Air Filter, PowerVault PV2 Muffler, OME Trooper Springs, Rancho RS9000X Shocks, 285/75R16 Nitto Grappler AT's, Pioneer DEH P8000R In-Dash CD, Amps and Drivers Built by Orion, Wires and Fuse Blocks by KnuKonceptz, Vibration Damping by BQuiet, Alarm System featuring Auto Start and Remote Windows, Yakima LoadWarrior w/Full Size Spare, Debadged/Custom Titanium Grill Logo, Tint (5% Rear / 20% Front), Steel Braided Brake Lines, G2 Painted Calipers

  9. #9
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    Danke...

    Bart

    Quote Originally Posted by Ldub
    Solid

    Axle

    Swap


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