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Thread: Tone's headlight bulbs: fuse issue

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  1. #1
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    I ran 120w bulbs until I got the HIDs and the wires don't even get warm - just use 15a fuses and you'll be fine, Direct wiring as discussed below will make them brighter though. HIDs don't need relays as they are only 35w - do the math.

    Stock bulbs are 55w low / 60 high - I'll start sending 15a fuses with them.
    Last edited by Tone : 12/12/2006 at 06:07 PM

  2. #2
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    Tone
    at least send a paper saying that you need switch your 10 amp fune on 15 that would be enought but if you will send 2 15 amp fuses with that will be amazing.

    just my 2...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tone
    I ran 120w bulbs until I got the HIDs and the wires don't even get warm - just use 15a fuses and you'll be fine, Direct wiring as discussed below will make them brighter though. HIDs don't need relays as they are only 35w - do the math.

    Stock bulbs are 55w low / 60 high - I'll start sending 15a fuses with them.
    Tested and tried last night. I ran these things through the wringer and no issues. Wires stayed cool, fuses remained intact, no issues.

    I apologise to Tone for making this inquiry public, but since others had the same issues, this will remain a good Search location for future use. Needless to say, these are great bulbs and for an additional $0.30 for fuses at your local auto parts store, they are still a steal.
    Gary Noonan
    '01 S/C VX / '18 Forester XT

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tone
    I ran 120w bulbs until I got the HIDs and the wires don't even get warm - just use 15a fuses and you'll be fine, Direct wiring as discussed below will make them brighter though. HIDs don't need relays as they are only 35w - do the math.

    Stock bulbs are 55w low / 60 high - I'll start sending 15a fuses with them.
    I did the math! I was not trying downplay your product or product knowledge I was just suggesting some extra insurance/permormance.

    Here is a excerpt from HID forums.

    Imagine that we connect the HID ballast directly to where the low beam halogen bulb is connected. Some vehicles might be are able to power up HID systems normally without problems at install time. Most probably, it will not last long. The inrush load can be up to max 13 amps per ballast, compared to 7amps inrush when using halogen. The factory design parameters for headlight curcuit is 7 amps inrush and 4.5 amps continous load. So over time, connectors, multifunction switch, headlight switch, wiring and fuse holders will slowly degrade, beacuse of heat buildup. These components are very time consuming to troubleshoot becuse they are usully well hidden behind dashboards and other wiring looms. Parts easily reaches several hundered dollars. Add 8h labour to that and it becomes obvious that a $50 wiring harness is a cheap insurance.

  5. #5
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    Yup just replaced the headlights with tone's and they blew the fuses. Off to get some 15's. WOuld have been nice if they were included.

  6. #6
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    Funny - way back on the ClubVMag forum there was a long discussion about using 15A fuses if the bulbs are upgraded. It's coming back around ...

    -- John
    John Eaton
    Original Owner
    2001 Proton Yellow #580
    Atlanta GA

    http://wildtoys.com/vehicross/
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    "Metaphors be with you"

  7. #7
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    Thats because few here remember or knew of the old ClubVMag site!
    Billy Oliver
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyapollo
    Funny - way back on the ClubVMag forum there was a long discussion about using 15A fuses if the bulbs are upgraded. It's coming back around ...

    -- John
    Exactly why a sticky concerning any known issues would be a plus. In the end, the 15A fuse works like a charm for this one. Still loving these bulbs.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. I-MAN View Post
    Here is a excerpt from HID forums.

    Imagine that we connect the HID ballast directly to where the low beam halogen bulb is connected. Some vehicles might be are able to power up HID systems normally without problems at install time. Most probably, it will not last long. The inrush load can be up to max 13 amps per ballast, compared to 7amps inrush when using halogen. The factory design parameters for headlight curcuit is 7 amps inrush and 4.5 amps continous load. So over time, connectors, multifunction switch, headlight switch, wiring and fuse holders will slowly degrade, beacuse of heat buildup. These components are very time consuming to troubleshoot becuse they are usully well hidden behind dashboards and other wiring looms. Parts easily reaches several hundered dollars. Add 8h labour to that and it becomes obvious that a $50 wiring harness is a cheap insurance.
    Quote Originally Posted by uncle_asa View Post
    Do not use any other bulbs power than stock unless you add relays!!!

    While plus is supplied through relay, the ground wire is going to the dimmer under the steering wheel, so the contacts on the dimmer will quickly blow out, especially when you switch from low to high beam frequently. By installing additional relay instead of the lamp you can improve also the output from the stock bulbs because of the voltage is dropped on the long wire to the steering wheel and back to the ground.
    Thinking of getting some 100/90w bulbs on ebay but these warnings are making me think twice. Just curious if people are still running these without any problems?

  10. #10
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    I had a set of bulbs that I got from Tone in my VX for more than a year (I have HID's now) and the only thing I did was to upgrade the 10 amp fuses in the fuse box to 15 amps and never had a problem. I don't remember the wattage of the bulbs, but I still have them so I could check tonight if you need me to.
    "The major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong, it usually turns out to be impossible to get at or repair."
    -Douglas Adams, Mostly Harmless

  11. #11
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    I've had them in for 4 plus years and no problems
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
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    Onward thru the fog
    Leave it BETTER than you found it!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by MSHardeman View Post
    I don't remember the wattage of the bulbs, but I still have them so I could check tonight if you need me to.
    Thanks, I did a little research and I am sure they would be fine for a few years but some people started having problems after five years or more.

    This sounds like a nightmare I want to avoid:

    These components are very time consuming to troubleshoot becuse they are usully well hidden behind dashboards and other wiring looms.
    So I just went with the 55w

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