Possible Major Problem!!!!!!!!!!!!

This might be simple.......I hope! Got in the VX this AM started her up. worked like a champ as always. Put'er in reverse and she died immediately. Back to park, started right up. reverse.... died immediately, repated this drive died immediatley, neutral started, back in gear... died. Had to leave for work so took the old truck. Going home in the morning to figure it out but don't know where to start, any suggestions? last week I threw a trouble light, dx'd as code for manufacturer installed emmissions control. but, this code went off with next start up, and did not recur. thanks guys for the help. Chris Covey

Sounds like the MAF is unplugged or has fallen off the intake tube.

Checked the MAF, all appears to be intact and connected properly, I had driven the VX the night before, >100 miles without any problems, and it still starts up like a champ, will rev up, run smooth, no detectable problems....until I put it in gear. then it dies, runs/starts fine in nuetral too. any other suggestions.... please!!!!!
just ran the codes, P1404, P0101... Manufacture controlled auxillary emissions controls, and MAF or VAF ckt range/perf..................any input?

Tone, using the reference to MAF you gave me plus the reference disc (also courtesy of you) Iremoved and cleaned the senors circut with electrical cleaner. While I was at it I also cleaned and lubricated (with electrical lube) all other circuts of the emmisions control system (o2 sensors etc). when I was finished the VX started and ran like a champ! So once again thank you for your commitment to service knowledge of the VX. I was serious about the beer! I plan to catch up with you sometime at a VX meet or somewhere. When I do, the drinks are on me! My new job allows me alot more free time now, I only have to work 119 days a year at my primary job! So, keep me posted on any meets you plan to attend. Thanks again!

Well it ran fo a day after cleaning the MAF, then same problem occurred, I replaced the MAF sensor, but no help. Going to check the fuel pressure next, any other suggestions? Has anyone else had this problem? Now even if it starts in park, it won't stay running when I give it gas.

I've had a problem close to yours, but mine one day wouldn't start at all. I found the fuel pump fuse (under the hood on the right side) was blown. I had a shop check the fuel pressure and it was low(can't remember the pressure). I replaced the fuel pump and have had no problems since, and it was over a year ago...Good Luck

Did it happen after a fillup?

as a matter of fact it did happen after a fill up, I got gas, drove about 3 miles home, parked in the garage. The next morning she started right up, but when I put it in gear she died. I have now checked the fuel pressure which appears to be ok (40 with engine off, ignition on; 30 with engine running) and I changed the fuel filter... also funny thing.... I threw a code briefly today, P0101, (fuel/Air metering), I cleared the code so that I could run a monitering scan with my obdII system. and when I started the truck it did not throw any codes, all systems checked out, and it ran fine (around the block). so this may be an intermittant problem, trouble is now i don't trust it to drive anywhere. Already had to pay one towing bill. Would really like to figure this out and get it fixed.

Also, anyone know what "CKT range/perf" means on an OBD II system. I can't figure this one out?

what is the Pxxxx number?

here is a pdf of error codes
http://www.actron.com/publish/2005/0...lish_16298.pdf

wisdom the code was p0101 and I found out that ckt means circut (I actually have 2 of the actron scanners, 1 pocket scanner and 1 "big daddy" that reads live data) I thought it was the MAF because of that code, but I replaced the MAF and the problems persisted. I checked all the wiring, seems to be intact but..... That code tells me otherwise Acording to the live scan my MAF is measuring1.4 at idle, and increases with throttle so it would seem that the circut is working..... I am about to give up......There is an import specialty shop near me..... But I don't have that kind of cash at the moment, any other suggestions?

Is 1.4 in spec? If you use the Workshop Manual CD it walks you through a number of tests to properly isolate the problem.

Try the following: http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...4&postcount=15
By the way, did you checked your air filter? It could impact as well if it is enough dirty.
Also check the intake air tube for cranks. If it take some air beyond MAF somehow the engine might fail to run properly as well.

If it happened after a fillup it might just be bad gas. Hook your fuel preassure tester back up, run the purge hose to a safe location, make sure you dont have any leaks, start the viehical. Put a zip tie around the purge button and drain the tank with the engine running, check the fuel if it smells at all bad thats probly your problem, it could also have alittle water in it. If that dosnt help, ill run you through some more things to check. Also check all of your plugs in your electrical system, throw some dialectric grease on every plug you can find. Ive even done that to all of the tranny plugs. Electrical problems are a bitch to diagnose when you have bad conections. Spend an hour or 2 going through it all. Trust me, ill help you fix it, screw paying some one to fix your VX. I also had a problem with the wiring harness near the tranny, it melted because the factory has it to close to the exaust, it caused tranny problems. If you have a short when you put it in gear that could also cause problems. Does it stall when you put it in drive, or just reverse.

Talk about a pain in the A**!!!!!!!!!!!!! Well after multiple tests and diagnosing I decided to try another MAF from a different location than the original "new" one I purchased thru advance. (The code for MAF kept coming up about 20 times) Turns out Advance sold me a defective part!!!!!!!!!!!!1 Got the second MAF in from Autozone and Now she purrs like a kitten! or maybe it should be called a roar cause It seems to me that I gained back some power that I didn't know was lost. Also while I was at it I changed the spark plugs which I had neglected to do for the first 95,000 miles. I put in iridium plugs ($12 each). Talk about an improvement to throttle response and power it is noticeable with these plugs. They actually gaurantee an increase of 10hp but I had my doubts about that. But, after putting them in.......its possible. Anyway, thanks for all the suggestions! :mado: :mado: :mado:



Hey Tone, did you get my email about the lights? Still haven't heard back from you. :?:

As we're on the MAF subject, I thought I'd post my experience...

I've been plagued with CEL's since Moab last May...She would run great around town in the lower gears, but as soon as I hit an on ramp & put a higher gear/ heavier load on, I could count on a CEL rearing it's ugly head...all codes pointed towards a vacuum leak.
Knowing that Isuzu intake gaskets were notorious for cracking/ leaking, I ordered a set from Merlin (read "god of Isuzu partzdom"...the man is good !).
After some nasty problems with the hard pipe (nicked the O-ring) obstructing the r&r of the thermostat (YES, I had to r&r the intake/ s/c TWICE ! argggh!) :mad:
After putting it all back together, THE SECOND TIME...I pulled the same codes...needless to say, I wuz bummed. :(
I emailed Jerry Lemond (a known GOD of Isuzu knowledge), he was kind enough to give me free advice that was worth ten thousand times what I paid for it, which included...

1. Check EVERYTHING downstream of the MAF sensor for leaks...this meant, I changed all my "bling" stainless braid vac. hoses/ breather hoses back to the real thing.

2. Carefully examine the sensor wires inside the MAF for crud...this meant, using electronics cleaner (Gunk) to spray off all the crud deposited by K&N filter oil...the sensor wires were a cruddy looking dark color when I started & shiny when I was done.

This zuzuite is now a VERY happy guy...I just returned from a road trip of over 1500 mi. (wheelin w/ da MWIOR gang) & not ONE CEL !!!

Suzy hasn't run this strong in quite some time & I've run one tank of so called "premium" through her that was 10% ethanol...still, no CEL !!!

I can't WAIT for Moab this spring !

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Ldub

I can't WAIT for Moab this spring !

---

Speaking of, I'll be coming this time around. :) I've never been to Moab.

Bart

AHHHHHHHH HELL!!! :mad: :madb: :madp: :mado: :mady: :upsetgray :madg:

Same problem again, same code, all with new MAF, I give up, I don't know what else to check. Can anyone recommend a GOOD SHOP in Indianapolis?

http://autorepair.about.com/library/a/1h/bl023h.htm

here are some more suggestions as to what it could be.. good luck!

hey chris,
there is a good mechanic here in martinsville, towneview auto clinic, he is where i have always taken my amigo, and other autos, prices are maybe a little high, but the quality of work is also. and he is a really good guy. his name is terry buster, his wife is brenda, she will answer the phone. tell em i sent ya their way. I have also always heard that Indy motorworks,in greenwood does good work, and they are a little closer. if you come to martinsville, ill give ya a ride back home if you want.
david

thanks david, I might take you up on that next week, THANK GOD for my old beater work truck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So, truck still has the code, but does not set off the MIL, however truck runs fine until warm then the idle is sticking at about 2300rpms, and a second code pulls up (still no MIL). now I have code p0101 and P1404 showing on my scanner. truck is starting and running fine except for the rpms when warmed up after looking at all the codes beginning to think the PCM is going bad..... any thoughts?

1404 indicates the EGR valve stuck closed...if that info. is of any help.

yeah, already replaced egr valve about 1 monthago

Originally Posted by climbcovey
Sure did! Turns out the engine wiring harness had a bad connection, Isuzu wanted to replace the whole thing at the tune of $450 Part, $650 labor. But only one harness in the country so they would have to order it (I found the 1 harness with the help of merlin, I got it on hold for a price of $350. Then I went home, disconnected all the connections of the harness under the hood, cleaned them with electrical cleaner, lubed them with di-electric grease and problem solved! Cancelled the parts order and saved $1050. I did however still have an idle problem ( sticking and/or slow to return to baseline) That turned out to be a gummed up IAC (?) sensor. I think that's what it was called but its located on the front/top of the throttle body and controls the idle. I cleaned this with throttle body cleaned and sea foam, as well as the egr once again and put a screen on the egr to burn off any excess carbon and prevent build up. Put it all back together and she's as good as new. By the way, I am at work right now would you mind cutting and pasteing this email to that thread so all can read? I can't do it at the moment. Thanks Chris