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Alright finnaly managed to get the code read today and of course its the EGR. I'm ready to drive this thing into the east river. Anyways, I checked old posts as always for how to clean it, and it seems that all of the links to the how faq don't work, they bring up this login page that I can't log into. If anyone can please help me out here so I can clean this damn thing and hopefully get the light off that would be great.
thejerseyfish
99% it doesn't need cleaning, probably it only needs the gasket replaced and/or the 22mm nut tightened.
If you remove the egr and look in the bottom, its a very simple solenoid valve that lifts a tapered plug out of a hole to open the valve. if you push the plunger in, you can clean the hole if necessary.
John C.
One small prob, don't where this thing is, what it looks like or how to even take it apart. Any help?
These pice should help :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Thejerseyfish
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/849egr.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...849egr_nut.jpg
I had a feeling that was it but wasn't sure. So now that I know where it is how do I take it apart and clean it.
easy
2 bolts. be carfeul with they easily stril or cross thread
plug the larger hole which I think is the hole on the left if I remember corrrectly.
Then start er up and spray brakes part cleaner down the other hole and make DAMN SURE that large hole is plugged good or you could blow yourself or your VX up or your surroundings up or VERY LARGE flames shoot out the hole catch the rag on fire and could blow something up like your VX, you or your surroundings :p :p :p :p
SERIOUS, no kidding around and neither is cleaning your EGR. So, pack the hole tight and BBQ or um spray away and replace that pvc when your done too.
Cool I'll try it tommorow since I have off. I assume the carb cleaner and all the gook is just burned off in the engine?
yep
The tube going into the intake should also be cleaned. If you remove the throttle body, you can see the end of the tube and the gunk that will be clogging it up. Take carb cleaner with the red tube and blow out the line back to the valve (after removing the valve).
Took the valve off, no problem, although the valve itself apart, I wasn't to sure on, so I just blew cleaner in the hole a bunch of times. As for the manifold that the valve bolts to I tried to plug the big hole but it just blew the rag out each time I tried. So I finally decided to just spray cleaner down both holes, I used about 3/4 of a can, and start her up, then spray, start etc... I reset the computer, the light was off for a matter of minutes and then popped back on. I know for sure thats the code and the only code since I had it checked yesterday. So, did I not clean the thing well enough, Can you clean Both holes with the car running, whats the best way to do this? There was plenty of exhaust coming out of the big hole, so not sure if thats the prob, maybe like Tone said, its the tube that goes to the throttle body. Also tone, whats the best way to take the Throttle body apart without breaking anything, Are there jsut 4 bolts holding it on? How complicated is it?
thanks,
Randon
I remember a long time ago I downloaded the cd rom service manual for the VX, but unfortunately when my HD crashed and burned I lost it. I would love to have again, now that she is getting on 7 yrs old and in need of fixing. If anyone has it to D/L again that would be awsome.
Thanks
it is too much of a PITA to do it by email try Tone's website www.Tonemonday.com I believe you can still download it there. If you can not get with me and I'll do it by direct connect thru the messenger.
How dangerous is this really. IM sure i need to do this to my VX but now not sure if I want to take the risk. I am experiencing rough starts and bouncing rpms and 1/2 the gas mileage out of my last three tanks of gas right about 10mpg now. And I am not expeirenced at mechanical work only oil changes thus far. Please help
easy
2 bolts. be carfeul with they easily stril or cross thread
plug the larger hole which I think is the hole on the left if I remember corrrectly.
Then start er up and spray brakes part cleaner down the other hole and make DAMN SURE that large hole is plugged good or you could blow yourself or your VX up or your surroundings up or VERY LARGE flames shoot out the hole catch the rag on fire and could blow something up like your VX, you or your surroundings
SERIOUS, no kidding around and neither is cleaning your EGR. So, pack the hole tight and BBQ or um spray away and replace that pvc when your done too.
Can someone who knows how post a how-to for cleaning the EGR?
I have never done it, so dont know how- it looks like a previous post here pretty much covers it, but if someone did up a good one, that would be great to have in there.
Any takers?
I cleaned and cleaned and cleaned... 3-4 differnent times... never worked for me. I bought a new one for ~250 and no more light.. everything is fixed. I know it's kind of high, but I got tired of the light and the fact that I never really knew anymore if there were other problems going on since the light was always on. There is a how to on the site somewhere.
I just want to fix the hault to start (I mean seriously when parked at a gas station and people are looking at your VX the last thing I want is have to turn the key over for about 10 seconds). Im sure when this is cured the LOW mpg would be too. 10mpg isnt cutting it after having near 20 a couple weeks ago. I did power wash the under the hood, something could be loose but I still dont know where to look or what the parts under the hood are called. Thanks for anything
Check out this link then scroll down for EGR "how to":
http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq1
Yeah I had the same thing happen for over a whole year, same check engine code and everything, tried cleaning it didn't help, but just like Driver3, as soon as I had a new EGR put in problem was immediately solved check engine has never come back on and it gets much better gas milage now.
Awesome link Utah......
How much is a new egr?
Im going to tackle that oil change w/pcv valve, and order a fuel pressure reg i think this weekend.
Most EGR's can be cleaned as they get all carboned up and can't open or close completely. Take it off and soak it in carb cleaner or gasoline and scrub with a toothbrush, pushing the valve up and down. Also clean the tube that goes into the intake manifold - if you remove the throttle body you can see that end.
I cant not find a 22mm stubby wrench at any harware store around where i live. I need to fix this problem soon. It seems to be getting worse and taking longer to start and sounding bad once it does almost a backfire noise and it emits a lot of exhaust............Should i just take it to the shop? I am not mechanically inclined much, but a very easy leaner. Also, i do not know what many of the terms of the engine parts mean. My list of servicing only includes oil changes, pcv valve and new* as of this weekend fuel filter repalced........need help please......
if possible respond in beginners terms or with pics if possible.......
Thank you
John
The 22mm stubby wrench can be found at Sears, no problem. Just got one myself.
aye, Blacksambo is correct, however they are very proud of them. They are worth it though...I just bought the single 22m
I cant not find a 22mm stubby wrench at any harware store around where i live. I need to fix this problem soon. It seems to be getting worse and taking longer to start and sounding bad once it does almost a backfire noise and it emits a lot of exhaust............Should i just take it to the shop? I am not mechanically inclined much, but a very easy leaner. Also, i do not know what many of the terms of the engine parts mean. My list of servicing only includes oil changes, pcv valve and new* as of this weekend fuel filter repalced........need help please......
if possible respond in beginners terms or with pics if possible.......
Thank you
John
Black - Southern Indiana Sears stops at 19mm in the stubby section unless you buy the $69.95 set
i just got my 22mm stubby from sears a few weeks ago off their clearance rack, have you tried looking at sears online? or ebay
Nope next step some already in my watch list.
Check enging light came on again with the multiple cylinder misfire code as last. 10 minutes later it went off. Im guessing i need to clean that EGR now?
I dont know if this is a EGR problem, even when both my EGR bolts were loose I never had any problems with it starting. Although a dirty EGR was not the issue with mine, it was just a matter of keeping the bolts tight.
If the idle is erratic you may want to try cleaning the idle control valve(real easy to do). Sounds more like a direct fuel issue to me. But I am no expert.
Can you spin the 22m bolt on the bottom of the EGR? If not I doubt its loose and probably doesnt need tightning. Everytime mine has come loose its been sitting down on the pipe a few inches below the threads.
No its not real loose or loose at all. I just watned to tighten to make sure. I read on here somewhere if you engine sounds like diesel then its probably cuase of that nut being loose. And my engine for sure sounds diesel.
Also, where is the idle control valve?
My problems are takes a while to start but pumping the gas helps it.
Abnormal exhaust from tailpipe and car smells like gas.
Once started the RPMs bounce unless gas is pump to maintain a steady level.
Then after a few seconds the engine idels at 750rpm.
the idle control valve is located on the throttle body. I cant remember which side its on, but its got a electrical plug that goes to it. Its best cleaned by removing it first.
I dont know names of parts of an engine yet as I am just now learning where exactally is it and what does it look like and what should i use to clean it? Thanks
Here's a good idea for you...Quote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
Download & burn the shop manual cd from Tone's site & familiarize yourself with all these thingies & doo-dads that are in resplendent profound abundance under the hood of your VX.
ORrrrr, order something from him & he'll likely as not, include one(pre-burndid) w/ your purchace!
I'm not trying to be a butt here, It would increase your learning curve of nomenclature of parts/ functions & also give you an idea of where they are located/ how they interact w/ other systems etc., etc., etc.
REALLY, I'm just trying to help.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...849egr_nut.jpg[/QUOTE]
This damned EGR tube mount nut I tell you. It's been the bane of my night. The last damned tihng holding me back from mounting my S/C. Getting leverage on this thing is killing me (and my back). There is only one way to get to this thing and it's creating a dilemna. Anyone know some secret to loosening and getting this thing off other than my next step.... an incendiary grenade?
EDIT: I got it. I couldnt get to bed tonight unless I had that bastard so I put up one more fight. Just put a little more muscle into it. Damned engineering minds that like to torture us with their hard to get, hard to maneuver places....
In all, there is no secret to this since brute force is the answer.
Yah, that's a fun one, & also the reason I've learned to always carry a 22mm stubby in my glove box.
The EGR block supplied with the s/c kit will test your patience because the nut tends to loosen itself...then you get hear what your VX would sound like as a diesel. ;)
I found that a gob of hi-temp silicone on the EGR nut threads upon reassembly works better than loc-tite to keep it from loosening.
Yep, I appreciated turning the nut about 5degrees on every crank, thanks to the poor leverage in the area. Only took me about 15 minutes of cranking to get it off after I loosened it, heh. Amazingly, the bottom of my EGR valve looks like it faced a nuclear explosion with all the soot on it. May the cleaning frenzy begin.
OK, i just read this whole thread, and then proceeded to read much of the stuff on the http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq1 page about cleaning the EGR and oil consumption.
So, that read, I am thinking of doing a full EGR cleaning and possibly trying this Sea Foam idea. I want to rid my VX of the oil burning issue, and hopefully get a little better mpg at the same time. I am also thinking I should put in a new fuel filter also.
Can anyone tell me about this Sea Foam idea? Is it a bad idea? I want to make sure my baby is squeaky clean and not burning oil. Its getting old. But I don't want to do anything harmful.
Also, regarding the EGR cleaning. Its confusing because the directions say to REMOVE the EGR and then plug the big hole and start the VX. This makes no sense. How/why do you remove it, plug it, and then start the VX while it is off? Am I missing something? Or am I to remove the EGR, clean it separately, and while its off, plug the holes where it was attached to and clean this part? I'm just a little confused there.
Also, I am not getting a CEL light, and don't want one. This is why I have not done anything yet. So I am on the fence between leaving well enough alone and going balls out to try to solve my oil consumption problem and hopefully make my VX healthier, and less gas/oil hungry.
Suggestions?
Thanks,
Bart