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Well, I found the source of my oil leak. The passenger-side head has a head bolt missing. I pulled the head off and found, to my dissapointment, that it is broken off and not just missing.
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/5...31588jk.th.jpg
Does anybody know if there is a way to extract the broken part so I can replace it? Maybe a long drill bit and a bolt extractor?
Does anybody have a spare block for sale?
Totally bummed,
-Tobert
Was the bolt just not there when you pulled the valve covers? If so, it looks like it was known by the previous owner/mechanic. That sucks.
It's broken down pretty deep -Since you have it tore down, maybe a machine shop could pull it (they'll probably use a long bit and an extractor too.) You could probably do it yourself if you can get a centerpunch down there to start the bit in.
I wouldn't start looking for a new block yet -there's still hope for this one.
Your pistons look pretty nasty -are you burning oil too?
Just for an idea, I googled a new short block:
$1504 (no core charge!) from RPM Ron's
http://www.rpmrons.com/Isuzuengines.html
I think that this is a good deal...
Yeah. There was just an empty hole when I pulled the valve cover. I should have done that ages ago. I thought about taking a picture then but was "in the zone" so I didn't want to stop.Quote:
Originally Posted by mbeach
I'm gonna go buy brand new tools - all my drill bits are mixed up and pretty much all cheapies. I think I'll just to to Sears and pay the premium so I can count on at least SOME level of quality. New punch, new drill bit(s), possibly an extractor (might be able to borrow that).Quote:
Originally Posted by mbeach
Nope. It was infuriating because even with the oil leak, it took forever for it to actually drop off the dip stick. I think I was actually getting water in my oil now and for some reason it wasn't turning funky like it usually does. The EGR tube was definitely gummed up, so it might have just been burning really rich or something ...Quote:
Originally Posted by mbeach
If I can't get the bolt out, I may actually do that. The heads look good - just need to be cleaned.Quote:
Originally Posted by mbeach
this may sound crazy, but do you think that you could drill a hole in broken bolt, get a reverse thread tap, put a new reverse thread bolt in there, and tighten IT up, which would be loosening the origonal head bolt..........just trying to think.....i never had much luck with extractors, and such things.....maybe they are just too complicated for me....lol
david
Pretty sure it can be drilled and pulled out, which in that case I would get some wd40 in there asap so it can soak awhile. As long as the bolt isnt bottomed out there shouldn't be much holding it in place. I am no expert in the field but a reverse threaded drill bit should do the trick.
If you're handy, I wouls make a bushing to fit the hole in the head, with a hole in it slightly smaller than the minor diameter of the thread. Now withe the head bolted on slip this bushing into the head to use as a drill jig bushing to center and support the drill while you drill it out straight.
John C.
If I had access to the stuff to do the bushing, I certainly would. Instead, I'm going to start with a smaller extractor and work my way up so I can make minor corrections as I go. I thought about buying one of those drill press attachments for my drill ... neat tool.
Just bought a set of cobalt drill bits at Sears and borrowed my father-in-law's square extractor set. None of the people at Sears had ever heard of a counter-clockwise drill bit, not even the guy who claimed to be a machinist.
Is St. Charles Isuzu still gonna be the best source for head bolts? Can't wait to hear what they cost ...
That long block on Ebay for $2700 looks more tempting all the time.
I'm sure that ARP makes a semi-generic head bolt that works. Get the specifics off of a good one (or find the specs in your manual) and call them up.
If stock headbolts are Torque-To-Yeild they are not reusable.
Don't start with too small an extractor, you don't want to break it off. It can't be all that tight, its not bottomed in the hole, and its an aluminum block.
John C.
Yes, headbolts must be replaced and not reused. I have an extra block but it has spun the first and second bearings so not sure what it would take to rework that part.
Ahh that would explain why one broke off. I'm certain they weren't replaced. They didn't look like torque-to-yield bolts to me, but they did seem a bit on the small side.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tone
Is this an isuzu thing? We reuse headbolts all the time, stock and ARP. Even the ones on the 1300 hp motors. ShawnQuote:
Originally Posted by Tone
Most new cars use TTY headbolts, and typical tightening instructions are to torque to a specific amount, then go an additional 90°.
John C.
Tolbert, Its actually considered a extractor. Finding one that doesnt get to fat will be the problem since you said its down in there a lil ways.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tobert
I probably wouldn't even have attempted this without the advice of this group :)
Thanks everybody ... I think I can save this engine.
Tools:
Craftsman square screw extractors.
Craftsman cobalt drill bits
16oz. ball peen hammer
Skil 1/2" hand drill - lower speeds w/ medium pressure
I had to put the biggest bit I could find in the hole to create a center point for the real hole. The bit kept walking off to the edges because of the way the bolt broke off, leaving a hump in the middle.
http://img287.imageshack.us/img287/9...31629et.th.jpg
Awesome, glad it all worked out. :)
http://headbolts.com/isuzu.html
Anybody ever used these guys before?
Their site is crap, but their price is far better than anything else out there. My local Isuzu dealer wants $6.72 EACH, ARP estimates between $20-$30 EACH, and St. Charles Isuzu has been a busy signal all day, but with their 15% discount I'm still looking at $102.15 plus shipping in which case I might as well get them locally.
The dealer said the bolts are 11x155mm - does anybody have a quick way to check? I'll probably re-check mine this evening but I'll probably order from headbolts.com or Merlin.
Are the 6VE1 bolts really torque-to-yield? Most of TTY bolts I've seen have a thin part of the bolt, where these are just straight bolts.
Looks to me as if they are an ARP dealer, so that is probably what they are selling. They make real good fasteners.
Ordered from St. Charles. I called their non-800 number from the website and got through. $91.36 for 16 head bolts. I transferred to their service department who confirmed that they ARE torque-to-yield. I wonder if I can find an aluminum GM 3800 block ... parts are soo much cheaper, I already have one in cast iron from a Camaro, and parts are way cheaper.
Wiring is the easy part for me to mod ... exhaust & accessories are more of a pain.
I hope this is the last major snag in this engine.
When I rebuilt my engine I ordered the bolts from acura and they were like 75 bucks
All buttoned up and back on the road :) Everything seems tight and stable with no new oil stains yet.
Runs better than ever. Vrooooom!