Rear Door Popper Question...Again

I know that I've seen a couple of threads on this, but I am in the middle of the rear door popper install and I was wondering if y'all (hey I'm from the South) could help me out.

I've already gotten the pin switch connected to the interior light, and that works just fine. My problem is mounting the actual solenoid/pulley assembly. I know someone asked about this just recently, but I couldn't see the images of JohnnyApollo's set-up. Could someone repost the links? Also, how does the rigid wire thingy (very technical term) connect to the door release mechanism? I stared at it for a while last night, but couldn't quite figure it out.

The other big thing is the wiring for the factory switch. I've clipped a pigtail for the factory switch out of a salvage yard Rodeo, but does anyone know what wire goes where to make it work like a factory job? I've seen Moncha's diagram for the back of the switch, but I'm still a little confused.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

If you have my CD that I include with all shipments, the install instructions with pictures are on there. I can send you the pdf of it later this afternoon.

Tone,

I did print out your instructions, and I'll check on the CD again, but the pictures that I saw never said how to connect the rigid wire end to the door release mechanism. From the looks of the pictures where you have the solenoid and the pulley mounted means that the wire from the solenoid has to move a little perpendicular to the pulley to get back to the release mechanism. Is that the case? If so, is there any issue with the wire jumping off of the pulley as it goes up and back out of the solenoid to the pulley, and then down and back from the pulley to the release mechanism?

Thanks for the help. So far the instructions, and the kit, have been very helpful and easy to install.

See you on the 15th for the Zuvoy!!

Mark

http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da.../6switches.jpg

The pic shows the pin layout for the factory switch.. The black text tells what function the pin serves.. eg. On Indicator (slit) is the internat light that comes on if the door is ajar or dashlights, the light in the switch that turns on when the dashlights turn on....

The red text tells where the leads need to be hooked to.
(The "pin switch/ground" one is for a second pin switch that will light the "On Indicator" when the rear door is ajar.. If you hook it to the regular "overhead light" pin switch, the "On Indicator" light will come on whenever ANY light comes on, making this an option)

Any other ???'s

I assume (you know what that means! ;) ) the kit you have is similar to mine. You want to bolt the solenoid inside the door several inches above the latch/lock mechanism.


http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...6/fd4c859a.jpg


You need to drill a hole through the bar that actuates the latch.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...a/fd4c85a0.jpg

I don't remeber the size of the bit, but keep it small. Start the hole with a nailset or center-punch so the drill bit doesn't walk on you. put the cable through, loop it back towards the solenoid, and clamp the two ends together. You may have to adjust the tension of the cable a few times to get the desired result.

Hope this helps.

Brian

BBVX's way looks good too without the pulley or the solid wire hook that comes in the kit (it should have had instructions for it on a separate piece of paper). I only saw the part about the pulley but if you look at some of the pictures, I thought the rigid wire thing was shown. The hook hooks under the latch mechanism, the cable it attached to the rigid wire thingy with the attached screw and clamp. The cable runs up from the solenoid, over the pulley, and then hooks under the latch mechanism. The you adjust either the pulley or the cable length until the cable is almost taught. If the VX is off, it typically takes two pushes of the release button to open the door fully. When running, it only takes one due to additional current flowing through the system. I spent an hour adjusting and adjusting until I figured that one out.

Ok - I have read everything I can get my hands on and I STILL can't figure out this factory fog light switch. WHY IS THIS STUMPING ME?!! (Wait, don't answer that!) I have studied the diagram, played with this thing with a multi-meter and dash wires for longer than I care to admit... and it still doesn't make sense to me. The only conclusion is that it must be a negative ground / trigger type of switch... or would that be positve... Seems opposite of what I need.

I am trying to wire up a set of Hella Black Magics that I have mounted. As per the wiring they came with, I'll be using a standard 12V relay. The switching mechanism will be a 12V trigger from a 12V tap off of the high-beam side of the headlights. HOW DO I MAKE THIS WORK WITH THE FACTORY (fog light) SWITCH, I ASK YOU? : )
Please... someone?

Thanks in advance!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Amnesia

Ok - I have read everything I can get my hands on and I STILL can't figure out this factory fog light switch. WHY IS THIS STUMPING ME?!! (Wait, don't answer that!) I have studied the diagram, played with this thing with a multi-meter and dash wires for longer than I care to admit... and it still doesn't make sense to me. The only conclusion is that it must be a negative ground / trigger type of switch... or would that be positve... Seems opposite of what I need.

I am trying to wire up a set of Hella Black Magics that I have mounted. As per the wiring they came with, I'll be using a standard 12V relay. The switching mechanism will be a 12V trigger from a 12V tap off of the high-beam side of the headlights. HOW DO I MAKE THIS WORK WITH THE FACTORY (fog light) SWITCH, I ASK YOU? : )
Please... someone?

Thanks in advance!

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Ummm...Maybe there's no current to your scource until the high beams are on ?
Just a "maybe".

Amnesia,

I still haven't gotten my rear door popper to work yet. Granted, I haven't spent any time on it since Moab, but the two things that I still need to do are to scrape the paint out from under the ground wire for the solenoid at the back door, and to wire in the horn relay. Moncha's diagram for the factory switch (which I have too) is great, but I don't know how to wire that into the horn relay. I got a quick diagram from Moncha that show's three wires (one wire from ground, through switch to relay, one wire from hot source to relay, and one wire from ground through solenoid to relay) for the installation, but the relay I have has four blades on it, so I don't know what wire goes to what blade on the relay and which blade remains open. This might be easier if I took some pictures and drew some diagrams.

Either way, Moncha's wiring diagram for the switches (above) work. My switch lights up when the dash lights come on and dims when the rest of the dash does. So, I know the switch is wired up right, I just can't get it to fire the solenoid at the back door. I'll keep you up to date as I try and figure things out.

MSHardeman, I will tackle the remote popper next! Like you have done, I will be wiring it to the factory (Rodeo) switch & wiring harness too. Wish me luck. I'll also be attempting to make it work off of my remote keyless entry keyfob... More relays!! Woohoo!

I don't have an answer for my problem yet (or yours), but I feel that I'm on the cusp of discovery! Check out the following link for an EXCELLENT primer on how to wire a simple relay. http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/500-001.pdf I wish I could have found this earlier today while I was at work, "working" on this! :rolleyes:

I think that once I print this out tomorrow at work and take a little time to soak it all in, that I might just get this figured out.

Some questions that I still have are: WHY? - Are the Dashlights and Switch pins on the Foglight pic BOTH connected to the Green w/Red Stripe and WHY? - Are there two Ground pins? and WHY? - Does the On Indicator pin LOOSE power when the switch is depressed (on) and have power when the switch is off? <--My negative trigger theory.

In the meantime... If someone doesn't mind scribbling something down and posting how this system should be connected, I would be very gratefull. If not, then I guess I'll post it once I get it fingered out.

Once more, I have: 12V relay that will be wired to pass current to the lamps when the high beam circuit is energized. (12V to Relay Terminal 86 / :clap: WAIT! I think it all just gelled!!

Like Monchas picture shows... "On Indicator" pin goes TO RELAY. Yes... I read this before, but it didn't make any sense... until now! I guess I WANTED to have a 12V souce going to the relay to trigger it, but I DO. It is the 12V from the High-beam... the factory switch provides the Ground for the relay to operate! (For some reason I had it in my mind that the Foglight Switch was going to pass 12V to my relay... It all seems so simple now...)

Thank you to everyone who listened while I thought out loud! (Now I just hope it works when I try it out!) ...I still don't get why the Dashlights pin and the Switch pin are connected to the same wire. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of these two switches??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Amnesia

...I still don't get why the Dashlights pin and the Switch pin are connected to the same wire. Does anyone have a wiring diagram of these two switches??

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The dashlights and the switch pin are connected to the same source 'cuz I wanted to have the foglights come on only when my head lights (parking lights) are on. The dashlights is a given, it powers the internal light in the switch. but since I only need a low draw to activate the relay, it worked well for the switch part as well.

I'm looking for a PDF of the Tone (RIP) install instructions for the rear door popper. Any one have one that they can post or email me? Thanks.

Earl, I think I may have one tucked away somewhere. Let me look on my "Tone" disc at home and see what I can dig up.

Found it!

See attached file.Attachment 2086 At least I hope that works. Not sure if the document attachment is working on the site now. If it doesn't work shoot me your email address and I'll get it to you that way.

That CD that Tone sent is a wealth of information. I've got all kinds of stuff on there that I forgot about. Actually have the entire workshop manual in digital, searchable, form. If anyone needs ANYTHING let me know and I'll find it.

That worked...thanks so much. Do you have anything that shows a more specific mount on the pulley or do you have the pics of the parts that came with his kit? Thanks again.

Let me look through the CD tonight to see if there are any other pictures. I seem to remember there being some additional information because I had the same question(s) that you do. I know there is a picture of the items in the kit that I can get to you.
If it comes down to it I can take a picture of the popper installed in my VX and get that to you.
Stay tuned....

Thanks...I have pics of the one that I installed on my Dragon when we both lived in CO. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something before I get started.

Got caught up in New Year's festivities (like going to bed before midnight) and didn't get a chance to search the CD. I'll look through it tonight and let you know what I find.

Thanks Mark...no hurry. I don't have my parts that I ordered yet.

Hey Mark, Do you know of anyone that used the OEM keyfob to use as a remote for the rear door popper? I think that I can do some electrical changes so that the first press unlocks both door and the second press pops the rear door. Thoughts on making this actually work?

Earl,

SORRY that I've been so lame. Don't check in with the .info site that often and I have forgotten to check all of my rear door popper info for you.

My rear door popper works as you are describing with the OEM key fob. Using the OEM key fob if I press the unlock button once both driver and passenger doors unlock. If I press it again then the rear door popper triggers. At least that's how I remember it working. Vicki has been sitting in the garage for a LONG time now while I tore the interior out in order to get the roof repainted. Now I have to put everything back together (good thing I took pictures of the disassembly).

I think there is an "Option" button on the remote, but I think that links into the Isuzu garage door opener interface.

I'll have to dig through my information to see if I can find the instructions on how to make the second press of the unlock button trigger the back door popper. I'm not electrically savvy enough to figure it out on my own so someone had to send me instructions on how to do it.

WOOHOO!!! Found what I was looking for in an older thread about the rear door popper started by Raque Thomas.

Check out post #23 in this thread: http://www.vehicross.info/showthread...t=popper+works

This is the wiring diagram that will allow you to trigger the rear door popper with the OEM key fob.

Earl, been re-reading the thread that I linked above (it's like going down memory lane).

There is an extended wiring diagram in post #35 that links the rear door popper wiring diagram and the key fob wiring diagram together so that one might help a bit more.

This is perfect...thanks Mark.

Hey Mark. I tackeld this over the evening. I followed your wiring diagram on the other thread with no success. I went back to not using a switch for when the VX is running and just have the door lock button and the key fob using the original diagram in the posted link. Did you get this to work with the OEM T-gate switch? I'm going to install the OEM switch as a stand alone instead of in-line with the others. Thanks for all of your help.

Earl, the VX is laid up in the garage waiting to be put back together after having some rust spots on the roof repaired and the roof repainted. It has been a while (years) since it has been together and out of the road and I honestly don't remember how the rear door popper works now.

I know it does work with the OEM t-gate switch, but can't remember the sequence. I know one press of the unlock button on the key fob unlocks the driver and passenger doors. A second press triggers the rear popper.

Here's where I can't remember how things go. I know I can press the t-gate switch to trigger the rear popper, but I'm not sure if the other door(s) need to be open or closed. I know the little indicator light on the switch comes on when the rear door is open, but I think it also comes on when the other doors are open as well because of how I have things wired. I THINK if that little indicator light is on the switch won't work so it would stand to reason that if one of the doors is open I can't trigger the popper by pressing the switch.

I can't remember what I disconnected to get the interior out of the car to have the roof painted, but I'll head out there and see if things are hooked up. If they are I'll play around with the switch and the popper and report back on how/when it works.

Thanks Mark. I never thought about trying it with the doors closed...let me wire it back up like your diagram and try it that way with the doors closed. I did my roof on the Dragon years ago...that interior removal is a real exercise in frustration sir.

I hope you get her back on the road soon.

Thanks so much for all of your help.

Earl, it's been so long that I can't remember how it works on my VX. I remember wanting to wire it so it wouldn't open if I was driving down the street and accidentally hit the release button on the dash since it is close to my fog light button (also OEM).

Let me know what you find out and I can get mine cobbled back together to see how it works if I need to.

So I got this done this weekend. I used the 5-pin relay already there for the key fob mod. Instead of using the always on power from there I ran an additional ignition dependent power supply. By doing it this way it take the key being on and two pushes of the button to activate the door. The first push powers the relay and the second activates the rear door solenoid. Got it all hooked to the dash lights and it works great. Key off uses OEM door lock switch. Key fob unlocks both doors on 1st push and 2nd push releases the rear door. With the key on the OEM door lock switch does not activate the rear door. Thanks for all of your help Mark.