How hard is it to replace the boot on the outer CV? Do I have to deal with the inner to do it? I'm thinking Spazz may have some comments from past threads. Thanks! :confused:
Jonnie
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How hard is it to replace the boot on the outer CV? Do I have to deal with the inner to do it? I'm thinking Spazz may have some comments from past threads. Thanks! :confused:
Jonnie
When I get home this evening I'll post up the section on this from the service manual.
I've got a few non-split replacement inner and outter boots if anyone needs them - $10ea. shipped.
Thanks, Tone, but I found non-split boots locally for a good price.
its not bad at all, but the start of a tear. I had the front end aligned that morning and rotated the tires myself that afternoon at home and noticed a small bit of grease in the boot fold at the very bottom. Don't know why they did not catch it, they sport CV replacement on their shop signs, first time there for me. Was not that way 2 weeks ago when I changed the oil.
4x4wire.com has an amigo article, but it concentrated on the inner boot, seemed a bit involved. At lease I have a new parts store at the end of the block now.
Jonnie
if you need help I left you my number.
For an outer boot, I highly recommend the Mechatech CV Boot Kit from Matt at Independent4x.
When you watch the CD-ROM video that comes with the kit, and see the veritable magic trick of how the boots go on, you’ll probably say to yourself ‘There’s just NO WAY it’s that easy’ – until you do it yourself.
And with a little creativity (and some sturdy tape to cover the outer boot’s band clamps), you can even use this kit to install an INNER boot… without removing the CV!
These things are amazing - and for the time and effort that it saves, that yellow installation cone is worth its weight in gold!
They must be split boots....?Quote:
Originally Posted by E-ZooZoo One
Jonnie
Actually, no, they're not split boots at all...Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnie
They’re just ridiculously elastic - so much so that the smaller end that fits on the CV shaft will open up enough to allow these things to slide completely over the hub (when you use the kit’s yellow mounting cone and lubricant) – then they instantly snap back to their original shape… ‘POP!’ - it’s on there.
You’ve just got to see it to believe it!
That is way cool, otherwise it is a PITA with a lot more dissembly required. Good find.
The megatech boots really do work!
Also,
The way I've done it is to undo the lower ball joint, then unband the inner cv boot, pop out the circ-clip and ceran wrap the inner joint's balls and cage. Then slide the new outer boot over the whole thing and into place. When I did mine I just replaced all four boots because I had changed the angle's of the cv joints and the boots were starting to tear.
WOW! Called Spazz and he took a lot of time explaining everything!! What a great guy your are!!!
Jonnie :)
OK...I am a looser.
I can't get the lower caplier bolt to break free. Upper is fine. Trying to be careful with jacks a floor jack and a socket with breaker-bar. Looks like I can't even get started. wanted to see if the ball joint would let go, but I can't even to to that point (hard part past sticking the CV inside bearing assem. back in).
I need a match and diesel fuel.
Jonnie
you are fighting yourself!!! it is not that hard. leave the brake assembly alone. Leave spindle alone. Leave disc alone. Leave wheel bearing alone.
it will stay all attched to the control arms and just fold out of the way. I left you a message...waiting for you to call me like I told you if you had trouble.
you are jacking up the Tbar to relive pressure to take out the 4 bolts under the lower control arm to allow you to move the Lower ball joint bracket above the lower control arm instead of below it. Then when you lower the the jack the lower control arm will go to full droop allowing you to pull cv shaft out of the side you are working on by lifting up on the lower control arm and pulling the cv shaft out.
Stay calm. It is cake walk. I wish I was there to help out.
Well things did not go as planned and I still have a split CV boot, at least its only an inch.
So I had the idea to ask the local Isuzu dealer how much to repack the front bearings, which turned out to be $160. So I then dropped the other shoe and asked how much more to replace the outer CV boot at the same time, and they put me on hold, then came back and it would be an additional $540!!!? Fricken' you tear down the hub anyway?
Jonnie
I don’t mean this the wrong way - HONEST!
But I'll bet that $120 Boot Kit is sounding better and better, isn’t it?
Trust me; it’s VERY EASY to use
(If I can do it, just about anyone can!)
And with it you'll get absolutely everything you need to do four boots. ;)
Jonnie already has the parts, he just can not figure out how to get his VX tore apart to replace the boots. I've explained it, but in person is way better I guess.
Is there ANYONE CLOSE to him that could help him out and save him the dealers nightmaresh price :o??????
Took another shot at it today. Theres good news and bad news.
After a trip to Harbor Freight, I was better equiped to get the nut off the upper ball and get the upper caliper bolt to loosen. Could not before. But the ball would not release (no puller) so it went back together and I threw on the split boot -damn screws. No, this is not a perminate fix. Took a test run and it all seems fine, First highway trip in 2 weeks.
The old boot and bands come off so easy, its the rest thats hard. The joint looked really clean so I was a bit happy.
Figuring to pull the hub and rotor, and get some ball joint pullers, and do it like the manual.
Jonnie
I'd be more than happy to help, just may be a weekend or two as the job schedule is pulling major vacuum right now. :mad: