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My scan gauge reads the temperature every 2 seconds. It bothers me just how quickly the temperature rises going uphill in 90+degree weather, but with AC on, I reach 210 in no time, sometimes up to 215 on longer hills. I actually downshift manually to drop a few degrees, also always in 3rd unless on HWY. Temp will drop very quickly levelling out or going downhill. What are your experiences with temperatures?
Something doesn't sound right here!
Temp should not fluxuate that much during normal driving, even going up hill you should not flux more than a few degrees. I could understand if you were hauling a 5,000 lb. load uphill.
Have your cooling system flushed lately?? Sounds as though there might be a blockage somewhere or your fluid is low.
I just finished hauling a car over to the body shop with my Rodeo (3.2 motor) going up and down all kinds of hills(nothing is flat in Vermont)and the temp did not flux more than 10 degrees all the way.
John
I believe average temp should be around 190. I could be wrong though. That's what my scan guage usually reads no matter what the temps outside or load on the VX. I live in N.H but it's been pretty hot here this summer.
I get the feeling that there may be an obstruction in the cooling system, will have this checked out today. I hope it is not the thermostat, as that would be a pain.
Bert,
How are you making out with the overheating problem? Any progress?
John
Bear,
no time to deal with it yet. This wek off to the radiator guy. I will keep you abreast.
That temp is right in line with the design spec - newer engines run hotter for emissions reasons - I see similar temps on my '99 and my GF's '01. Realize water does NOT boil or turn to steam @ 220 in a pressurized cooling system.
What does the temp gauge on the dash say?
What is your coolant mix?
When was the last time it was flushed and refilled with the proper coolant mix?
I wouldn't run to the radiator man until you consider those changes.
thanks Tone,
coolant is 50/50, was flushed by Isuzu in Montrose six months ago. Like I stated, only if hot (90-105degrees) going uphill with AC on will I see temps to 207, highest 213, but then turned off AC and back down to 200, flat or going downhill right back to 195....on a hot day. Normal operating, outside 80-90 degrees, runs 179-185 degrees.
I'm having a similar issue. Just did the 60K service and had the coolant flushed (plus new timing belt, fluids, etc). I'm noticing that the temp is climbing whne I accelerate above 80 MPH, especially on hills. I'm thinking that the flush has caused a blockage somewhere. I'll keep you posted on what I find out. I'm assuming the timing belt on the Isuzu Motor also runs the water pump?
-- John
I had my front end off this weekend and I noticed an amazing amount of insect debris in the radiator. I've never seen one get packed up like this, there has to be a serious restriction in airflow as a result.
Could something as simple as bug guts be contributing to your problem (mine runs hot as well, not so noticeable on the stock gauge, but engine stays hot for hours after shutdown)?
Hope you find out something with this,i have had this same problem with my 99 ironman since day 1, hot summer temp with Air running ,= almost running hot to running hot all the way to the "H" all hills here in Western nc "big ones!"..had it check over 3 or 4 times without any answers, i put water wetter in from time to time alone with 50/50 mix Anti freze/Water..tried every % including 100% Water... no different..i do not take to the Beach just because of this problem...in the winter, no problems at all, Im thinkiong design flaw or engineer flaw from issue... "TONE" you may know more or something different, as you seem to know these SUV'S inside and out as well or better than any....
Has anyone tried Royal Purples Purple Ice. Living in the desert spouthwest were the temps reach the 1hundred and teens a lot this might be on my list (long list) of to tries. Just wondering if anyone else had already guinie piged this product. They claim 30 degree temp drops. And I know they make quality products.......
Quote:
Royal Purple Purple Ice Radiator Super Coolant Additive
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Purple Ice™ is a high performance, synthetic, radiator coolant additive for both gasoline and diesel engines. It is formulated to reduce the surface tension of the coolant, which improves heat transfer through the cooling system while providing additional protection against rust, corrosion and erosion. Purple Ice™ prevents the formation of scale deposits in the radiator for optimum coolant flow and lubricates the seals of the water pump. It is ideal for use in straight water racing applications or in antifreeze / water mixtures. Purple Ice™ is compatible with traditional ethylene glycol antifreeze (green) and GM Dex-Cool® antifreeze coolants.
Purple Ice™ Reduces Coolant Temperatures
Extensive testing confirms Purple Ice™ reduces coolant temperatures better than comparable products while providing extra corrosion protection. For example, the average operating temperature of a 350 c.i.d. V8 engine (equipped with 160° thermostat) when dyno-tested with different coolants are:
Standard mix of water and glycol (antifreeze) — 228°F
50/50 water / glycol mix with Purple Ice™ added — 222°F
Straight water (no corrosion protection) — 220°F
Water with Purple Ice™ added — 200°F
Standard Packaging:
12 16-Ounce Bottles / Case*
The bug thing is a major cause for a lot of overheating and often gets overlooked. DO NOT use High Pressure washer to clean them out.. The high pressure can and will most likely bend the fins of the radiator and if you do it from the front, you will just push the bugs farther into the radiator..
Use a gentle stream of water from the front to soak and soften the carcasses of the bugs.. A little soap will help too. Then from the engine side of the radiator, flush with a gentle stream towards the front. Use only the amount of water pressure needed to flush the crap out without bending the fragile fins.
Billy, even if the water temp goes down by 30 degrees, the enngine still needs to operate at a certain temp for proper combustion, If it never reaches that temp, it can cause problems. But, on the other hand, if it can operate at proper temp and the additive helps from going over that temp.. Then that's good. Mainly a try it a see thing.
Good point Scott - did that in Moab for Paul and got bugs and a lot of dirt out. GF uses Ice and it helps but not 30 degrees. Again 195-210 is really not that hot - what is everyone's dash gauge reading when you are seeing these temps?
Tone,
My dash is reading as a clock would say.. normal around 11 o'clock.
When a hot day "say 85 degrees or better" and running Air conditioner or going up a mountian "road" it will read "2-3 oclock and sometimes prgress to the H ,if it gets this high of course i just let it sit/cut off for awhile,and it does a lot!...
My reading on the dash shows half way between c | h when scan guage reads at 190. Give or take a few degrees on the dash reading.
I remember at Moab back in May when we did the VX run at Elephant Hill everyone's temperature gauge was running a little high. I even had to shut off the AC a couple of times to bring it down.
I'm not sure if it was the steep inclines, 4x4ing, or what but I do remember everyone I talked to that did Elephant Hill had the same issue.
If I remember correctly, Larry from Houston had a rational reason why this was happening.
Peace.
Tom
At 190 degrees my temp gauge is around center, at 200* I see it move toward the H, at 210 I will see the gauge about 1/8 inch from hot. I have noticed the bugs in front of the radiator and will follow the advice given on cleaning them. Generally there are no problems with the temp, just with these hot days and running the AC going up and down mountains I have seen a difference. I also don't use 4th (D drive) in the city, and now if I do go up a long grade I will downshift to "3" which gives me another -5 degrees. I do remember in my '91 Trooper that AC or not, I'd go through Death Valley in Summer at 120 degrees with AC and the needle barely moved. Ah, the good old days.
We have noticed that it's hard to predict at which times the VX overheats, so other posts about the viscous coupling make sense. A larger radiator might do the trick - does anyone know where to get a three or four row radiator? Or which electric fan would work best?
thanks
rob