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I went to Isuzu for quite a while for changes aand decided to stop and do it myself several oil changes ago. I used Valvoline 5W30 lst change adn decided to go with Castrol GTX 5W30 this tiem and the oil was like water. I am thinking how is this going to protect engine parts??????? What is best oil for our VX??????
Also I am running stock filter would fellow VX'ers reco upgrade to K/N or Tones????
How much is K/N. Tones are 69$.....Thanks folks..
I switched to Mobil 1 0W30 at the dealer's recommendation @3000 miles ago. It has quieted down the motor and increased the fuel economy. I am very pleased with it.
I notice that my VX seems to have quite a "clicky" motor, probably valves, specialy initial starts. Did you go with synthetic oil or reg Mobil 1??
Go with the Mobil 1 (or equiv.) synthetic...it's the only way to go with oil. I use it in the VX and the Rodeo and it makes all the difference in the world. A quiet, smooth running motor. Also use a good Fram oil filter. Stick with the best and you won't have any problems.
John
I just switched to Mobil 1 synthetic on my last oil change. I used 5W30. What is the difference between 5W30 and the 0W30 mentioned above? I don't recall ever seeing 0W30, could he have meant 10W30? Any knowledgable feedback would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Neal
Just started doing mine myself and used Valvoline 20W50 and what a difference. I was getting valve noise and the power just seemed a bit off, you know the car just felt wrong, but after the switch she feels GREAT. I have about 57,000 mile on her. I switched to 20W50 because with my motorcycle as the weather gets warmer you us a heavier oil and if you look at the owner manual for the VX there is a chart on what temp range goes with what oil. Even when I was not doing the oil change my self I would always tell who ever did it what to use. For example in the winter 5W30 in the summer 20W50.
I meant 0W30. It's a slightly lighter weight than the 5W30 that you mentioned. Essentially it's a 30 that'll flow like a 0 when it gets hot. It's not going to be very common in the southern states, where cold weather isn't so much of a factor.Quote:
Originally Posted by V-Twin hiCROSS
I live in Daytona Fl and it is always hot, I thought 5W30 is reco weight for high temp area and usage. is there any issues going synthetic and once you go synthetic do you have to stick with that oil????Thanks
I have been considering going to synthetic for about 3 years. I just had trouble justifying triple the cost of oil. Well, my beast rolled over 65K miles this month, so I made the switch.
VXNIT - No issues with switching to synthetic. Some might argue, but I would not say that you are committed to it from here-on-out. You could switch at any time. However, I would recommend sticking with one oil over time. Only reason I say that is because some oils do not mix so well, and can cause gunky build-up if mixed. Penzoil was notorious for this.
Back to the oil weight question: So I should maybe use 20W30 in the summer, and 5W30 in the winter? I live in Missouri where we have 95 degree summers, and 20 degree winters. Let me know what you all suggest.
Thanks,
Whoa there! The fram filter idea might not be so good. According to some research I did a couple months back, Supertech filters sold at Wal-Mart for $1.97 out-performed the fram due to a heavier duty by-pass valve and better filtering media. Also according to this test, Wix and Purolator or the equivolent Napa Gold filters were a couple of the best. Regarding oil who knows. I've seen some pretty crazy test results and have wondered what to run. A friend suggested valvoline 0-40 as it tested better than mobil 1 but I haven't taken the plunge yet. I also belong to a grand prix forum where the boys send samples back for testing on a regular basis. Mobil 1 does rock but the valvoline seems to protect the motor for a longer period of time.
My "clicks"..especially at starts...were the result of a loose EGR valve..as pointed out by the local dealership. I tightened it and the clicking went away!
What's an EGR valve and where is it situated in the engineroom? (Please pardon my ignorance but I'm new to VX but a long time car hobbyist.)
EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) is located (standing in front,facing engine) on the left side towards the rear of the cylinder bank.The tube from the exhaust is held on from the bottom with a 22mm nut that you need a stubby open end wrench to tighten.
Search site for EGR for more exciting info. on cleaning etc.
Ldub
Has anyone out there investigated oil additives? I used one (Slick) on my Geo commuter car and left the oil cap off and drove over 20 miles with no oil and no damage to my vehicle. I haven't used it since, maybe I should, in case I get senile again. Hullraiser
I use motul 8100, its very similar to mobil 1, better somehow (what i was told my a oil salesman, with a whole heap of fact sheets) its similar in price too. I have used mobil 1 too and i cant tell the difference, but one thing that i can say, is that, there is no way that i will put mineral oil into any car that i own. Your car is a big investment, so why skimp on a measly $30 or so on getting the cheaper stuff. Your car is worth way more than that.
I have also put in a k & n, its well worth it too, not just for peformance or economy reasons, but also for the simple reason, that if you do a bit of driving on dusty roads or in sand its much easier to clean. I have got so much sand out of my filter before, i made a castle with it.
another simple upgrade that i would recommend is spark plugs. I have put in NGK iridium spark plugs. I have heard that the original ones are meant to be good, but these are definately way better. Not cheap though, over here they are AU$22 each compared to AU$4 for a standard plug. Engine runs much smoother too.
Thanks for the guidance on the EGR stuff. I appreciate your taking the time to reply.
VXNIT....this is Wayne,Chopper up in Palm Coast. Mobil 1 for sure. Something heavier than 5/30 or 50 for sure. We're on day 50 or 51 of better than 90 degree days. No need for 5 weight lube---'specially in a "clicky" engine. Plain ol' 30 weight is fine. 75/140 when you do the diffs. Get ahold of me any day at Flagler Collision 446-0224 I'll help ya with just about anything.
This subject has been covered in depth here. Do a search on oil/oil filters and you will find a LOT of info. There is one post on here concerning oil filters. Someone has cut them open and evaluated almost all the top brands. Personally I use the K&Ns because of that thread. Not the top rated one but the best one I can get locally.