VIBRATION !,Any ideas?

So here's the deal,
I had an acci. this winter, tangled with a tree & crunched r/r 1/4 panel...it also snapped the weld on the bar from the frame to the axle housing moving the right side of the axle back far enough to pull the drive shaft out of the splines.All the bodywork etc. came out perfect but...after replacing the axle,axle housing,suspension links & entire driveshaft,there is still a vibration.
I replaced all 4 tires & the rim is straight & they all balanced up fine. After replacing the axle housing, the alignment came out spot on.Between my bodyshop guy, mechanic & myself, were running out of ideas.
Anyone have any ideas...even longshots, on what could be causing this?
Any & all help is greatly appreciated.
TIA, Ldub

Was the TOD Box checked while you were doing all this? And was everything put back to original specs?
John

John,
Not sure what you mean by orig. specs. I don't have a lift or anything aftermarket going on w/ the suspension,so stock alignment values were used.
The TOD/ transfer case is probably the next logical place to look. Unfortunately, the nearest dealership is either Bismarck or Minneapolis...both 200 +/- miles from Fgo.
Thx for the input, Ldub

OK,that rules out the modification angle...so that's all factory.
Next step would be to check any mis-alignment to the TOD transfer case and alignment if the shafts to that case. Just my two cents.
I know it's a pain(and sometimes frustrating and costly) to head for the ZuZoo dealership, hopefully you have an honest dealer there in the area. If not try a 4 wheel drive shop/mechanic.
John

Thanks for the input John, monday it goes in to get the drive coming off the trans. ckd. w/ a dial gauge. I guess all we can do is start at the back & work fwd. I'm fortunate that my ins. co. OK'd all this extra work...so far.
Ldub

Good luck Monday!
Don't forget to have them dial in the Drive shaft tubes as well.
John

Thanks Bear, this "project" has been ongoing since the first of the year & I'm more than ready for it to be done.
Ldub

If you tweaked the frame out of square it could put the pinion angle out of alignment. That would cause vibes too. I imagine you've already thought of that though.

S words for a thoosend Alex,
Sorry man,my mind is wandering as the mercury drops & the sky goes grey.

Ahem...Thanks Swordy,I appreciate the response, you are correct, I asked the body shop guy who initially had it on the frame rack & the alignment tech. who did the alignment if the frame got tweaked...both responded negative.
I appreciate any & all ideas on this, hoping it's something that was easy to overlook, but I have my doubts...

Ldub

If the wreck pulled the drive shaft out, maybe the drive shaft is bent or out of balance? Maybe U-joint? Or bearings?

*edit* just re-read your post to see you already replaced the driveshaft.

Just becaue a part is "new" doesn't mean it is straight or in balance. You might still want to have the drive shaft and other new parts checked. I've had many new parts that are bad from the box.

Good point,Thanks Billy & Analog.All points of view are helpful in this mystery.
Ldub

Let us know how you made out after the visit to the shop...dying to know what they find...if anything.
John

The saga continues, didn't get to talk to the mech. after work...all I know is,
they ordered more parts & when they come in, they'll call me.
I'll keep ya posted on new progress as it happens...I hope.

Ldub

One more thing to check - the exhaust. The flange is right above the cross member - the impact may have dropped it slightly, causing the flange to lightly touch the crossmember - this would be most noticeable during WOT as the engine torques. Also, the front part of the exhaust on the right side gets very close to the right torsion bar and could be doing the same thing. It's very tight under there and the mere touch of an engine part to a body or suspension part could be causing the vibration (when it's really hitting you'll hear a clanking type noise, but if it's just touching it will transfer the engine vibration). Just something to consider.

-- John

John,
Thanks for the input,I've been under there with the mech. quite a bit lately & the exhaust looks like it's all good.The vibration starts at about 20 or so mph.as barely perceptible & gets more pronounced when more speed is added. When going 60 mph. you can feel it & hear it, but when I shift from drive into 3rd, the rpm. increases but the frequency of the vibe remains constant.We're looking at everything driveline related. The sound isn't like a bearing rumble, it's less noticeable.
One thing that I can't comprehend is when VX & tree made contact, R/R tire got a hole in the sidewall & all the energy was transfered through the wheel into the axle & axle housing. The axle & housing were bent but the rim is straight,a testament to the strength of suzu rims I guess. Yes, I am sure the rim is straight because I had the tire removed & the rim put on the balancer at the tirestore where I used to work.There was almost no runout (maybe 1/64),not enough to cause this much vibe.
Thanks again to all who have taken the time to respond, Ldub

Well, finally get to drive VIBE FREE !...turned out to be the coupler between the output shaft & the first (going front to back) U-joint.Glad that's over, now the weather is warming up & I've got much wrenching to do. (Piaa 1000's,
new HID wiring harness from Tone so HID's will stay on w/ hi beams,Borla muffler,new Thule Xpedition roof rack,fuel filter, etc.)
Thanks again to all who helped with ideas/suggestions & Happy Easter, Ldub :thanx:

Well, I thought I had it fixed, but the more I drove it at highway speeds , the more I noticed a "harmonic vibration" It's still 80-90% better than it was, but still not right.
Anyway, took it to a tranny (NO not THAT kind) shop & watch everything underneath while it was idling in low, & you could see a wobble in the coupler that bolts directly to the trans. case. Bent output shaft...DRAT!
Sooo, now we order parts & wait...but atleast It'll finally be done right...I hope.Also noticed that the rim did get bent, but not on the outside where I thought it would be, but on the inside ???, go figger.Atleast I'll get a rim for a full size spare. :)
Later, Ldub

If you're patient you might be able to shim the flange match true.

John C.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Hotsauce

If you're patient you might be able to shim the flange match true.

John C.

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Put a new out put shaft from trans. to rear drive shaft...works good now.
Sorry, I forgot to update this when I finally got it fixed. :rolleyes: