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Just sent my shocks off to the gentlmen (Bruce's Suspensions) that works on motorcycle shocks. Hes gonna rebuild both my fronts, even though only one is blow. He's also gonna use a slightly heavier weight oil from increase stiffness and damping, since I'm running a 1.5" lift and P285/60R18 Nitto's. I'll keep everyone updated!
Cool....
keep us posted on how everything turns out. Would be nice to have the stock fronts rebuilt cheeper then buying new ones and also getting them more stiffy!!!!
Any estimated cost? I'm in for it.
If the guy can do it, GREAT. I doubt it though. The ends on our shocks are crimped on. Whoever rebuilds it must remove the crimp to get to the piston seals, then recrimp or machine for threaded cap or snap ring.
I already lost 2 original shocks to Doetsch in a failed experiment, I'll be in the peanut gallery on this one.
John C.
Oh my God that is brilliant!
Ive been inside a few bike shocks myself. I cant belive no one has done it before. Where there is a will there is a way, if you have the tools and the tallent. :cool:
Everything in Japan is held together with snap-rings. I worked on the auto hubs on a 38 Nissan truck and its like... Inside snap-rings, outside snap-rings. Cir-clip seal inside/ouside snap-ring seal thrust washer and then antother few snap-rings.
I'll be waiting to hear about this one. But I'm optomistic! :)
OOh Ooh! I got an idea for the crimped part: Drill like, six holes vertically, down into the shock tap them for skrews (I'd use hex heads) fabricate an alumininum cap, Countersink six corresponding holes, O-ring, and YOU ARE in business my man. If the metal isnt thick enough weld an extra tube around the top of the shock tube. Then mill it flat, and then drill and tap.
I cant wait to blow my shocks! :)
The book says: The shock pistons are 46 mm.
I just measured the outside diameter of them at 53 mm.
Therefore the walls of the shock tubes are 3.5mm or~9/64ths.
A 4-40 screw is 7/64 or 2.7mm.
If you drill axially into the tube and tap it for a 4-40 screw you should leave~.8 mm or 1/32 on each side. Assuming "balls on accuracy”
Can you stand it!
You have too much time on your hands!! :razb2:Quote:
Originally Posted by SpaceTruck'n
Out of all the brain power we have on this site, someone will come up with an idea somewhere, somehow. Good job and Keep thinking.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moncha
Its not that I have too much time. Actually I cant seen to find enough time in one day to get everything done I want to do. See I focus on things most people... Huh? where was I. :(
I have that ADD or AHDD thing or something. They told me but I wasnt paying attention. :o
Anyway thanks for noticing! I try to use my ideas for benificial means, but it seems most of them are just nonsense. Or ideas someone else has already had, patented, and are in production, somewhere. :confused:
Cost to rebuild !?!
I just threw all four of mine out. (3 were blown)
I may still be able to go dumpter diving and get them.
Cost of rebuild? Who knows, but it gets higher everytime somone wastes valuable resorces.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrlegoman
I mean it's Your junk, but I'll bet there's ten dollars of aliminum alone in there ( ok mabe three to five) but thats BEER money man! :eek:
There are hungry kids in Indiana fer cryin' out loud!
Cost to rebuild is ~ $120 per shock, assuming nothing is seriously wrong with the shaft, etc. Thats for the rechage, seal replacement, and new fluid!
Awesome News!!!
Thanks for doing the legwork on this. It might be worth a roadtrip for me.
Updates on this? I have 8 shocks lying around that need some TLC.
Had the fronts done. Basically one was bad, somehow all the nitro charge leaked out (and it was only a year old), had the other one done just so they would be the same. The valves were replaced, seals, and the shock fluid and nitro charge. I asked them to use the heaviest shock fluid they could to stiffen them a little more than stock, and it seems like they might be a little. All in all, they turned out great! They even did a nice job of cleaning the shock. The one thing is the original top cap gets damaged when removed, since the add a schrader valve to recharge. all parts are returned, so I simply put it back on, although it sits a little higher up, and resealed it with silicone. Its awesome if you like the feel of the OE shocks. He can also retune them if you wish. I plan on doing the rears just to make them a little stiffer and cause they are the orignals (although not blown yet).
Cost was about $300 for both plus shipping.
I highly recommend Bruce's Suspensions, tell him I sent you (Mike Skurich).
He will know exactly what to do.
Pictures? Sealed what with silicone?
You know how our shocks have a dissimilar metal (and color) cap on the top of the resevoir, well this is removed to insert a shrader valve to recharge them, so you need to press the cap back on and seal it with silicone (or clamp on a protective rubber end cap (pipe end cap from Lowes, Home Depot).
That sounds like a No-Hub cap. I don't see any way one of those could hold pressure. Theres close to 200 psi in our shocks.
Are there any pictures of a rebuilt VX shock?
John C.
shrader valves are a bit different.
They use them in the rock crawler nitro charged shocks.
There are shrader valves out there that can hold 4500psi without breaking a sweat. HPA systems for paintball guns :)
Sweet. When I put on my Bilsteins, I kept all my stock shocks just in case I could get them rebuilt some day. Would be awesome to get the cases powdercoated Proton Yellow to match the VX, too !!! :)