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ok ........ so what exactly does cause the window to 'tilt' when it is going up ???
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regulator ?
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ok ........ so what exactly does cause the window to 'tilt' when it is going up ???
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regulator ?
I believe its the front window track (closer to the door hinge) that is the culprit.
It helps to widen and push the track away from the window, but I found it a somewhat difficult procedure. Be sure to fire some silicone spray into the rubber molding before putting everything back together.
This may help the binding problem a bit.
Check the "How-To's" section of the site. Link is found on the upper left of the home page. THere is discussion and a "fix" for the binding windows.
Thats what they replaced on mine, so I would say YES! Seems to me there are a couple problems that can happen. I have never had my window go outside the track or "bind" with the weather stripping, it just falls forward and you have to pull it back as you roll it up.Quote:
Originally posted by t2p
regulator ?
The hardware fix that Moncha wrote up is the best fix to date. I did it a couple weeks ago and it works great. Lubing the rails WITH this fix is recommended. My windows now go up and down fast and perfect.
WG:
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Did you ..... have you (ever) ......... replaced the regulator ?
It's concieveable that the stress caused by the front guiderail gap could damage the regulator. I'm guessing that windows in this case get gradually slower and the owner doesn't notice till too late. It wouldn't HAVE to bind or come out of the track to damage the reg. I think the front track fix is the real answer. I'm not sure I agree with bending the bottom of the track forward. The binding occurs around the middle of the front rail from the lower to the middle part of the door. Notice how the front angled glass isn't making much contactwith the guiderail until it's almost all the way up. The main center regulator rail is not centered on the window and door. It's too far back, if I recall. This and the front rail bind causes the back of the window to lead on the way up and causes the front to lag. Once the curvature of the rear of the glass and rear guiderail go out of alignment enough, the window binds or comes out of track, or breaks off a glued on mount stud. On mine, I just took a close fitting pair of channel locks with INSULATED HANDLES and used the end of one handle to pry the front track open wider. Use the free handle to twist the track open wider. I left the rubber in the rail and went up the rail from the bottom to as far up as I could reach, in 1/2 inch increments. Moving the bottom of the front rail forward just allows that part of the window to be close to OUT of the track because it's not that deep to begin with.
I have tried all the above mentioned ideas from this site. However, I have found that the plastics clips are the major problem even if you silicon the tracks or open the tracks or whatever. If the clips are broken it seems to happen no matter what you do. Sometime next week I will write a tutorial of my window fix which I fabricated new metal brackets to support the plastic one and then bonded the material togethers. It works better than it did when I bought it. The window will NEVER tilt forward again due to this fix. It's been one month since I did this and to this date have never had an issue again.
Everyone: Thanks again for the replies to this issue - an issue that has been covered so many times ........ I appreciat it.
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Once the curvature of the rear of the glass and rear guiderail go out of alignment enough, the window binds or comes out of track, or breaks off a glued on mount stud
.... and what happens when the 'glued mount stud' breaks .... ???
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I know this may then require the window to be replaced ......
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I have found that the plastics clips are the major problem even if you silicon the tracks or open the tracks or whatever. If the clips are broken it seems
Are these 'clips' replaceable ? ....... or are these clips the same item as the 'studs' (see above)
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I believe a repair shop fabricated a metal 'strap' to attach to the clips when they repaired the passenger side window mechanism on the VX I now own ....... they purchased a regulator, but installed a 'strap' and never installed the regulator.
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The driver side worked well until this week. I open (and close) the driver side window every day (minimum once) when I enter a parking lot.
Unfortunately, the clips are not replacable. I called everybody on this matter. Everybody told me I had to buy a new window and that the clips are mounted permanetly to the glass. That's why I made my own. You see, if the clips hold the window can not be thrown forward. It stays where it is suppose to.
hmmmm .........
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so if my window is 'rocking' - is that an indication I have a broken clip .... or clips .....................
Quote:
Originally posted by t2p
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ok ........ so what exactly does cause the window to 'tilt' when it is going up ???
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regulator ?
Just did my passenger window today as it exhibited the above behavior. What I had GREAT success doing was the Phines-fix; but, my window was not actually leaving the track as shown in his pic. I wound up pushing/bending the front-rail-brace away from the window as shown and then holding it in place by wedging a rubber mallet (head) between rail-brace and inner door panel while I pulled/bent the rail up above the brace in the opposite direction (toward the window) which alleviated the window "drop" as it goes 3/4 way up. Widening the channel increased the speed of the window as shown in the Phines fix.Quote:
Originally posted by SGT.BATGUANO
The binding occurs around the middle of the front rail from the lower to the middle part of the door. Front rail bind causes the back of the window to lead on the way up and causes the front to lag.
I kept trying the window after each adjustment to see how it reacted before going onward.
My passenger window now is working "perfectly" for the first time since I bought the VX. I decided to putz around with the driver window just because it wasn't "perfect"(mainly a tad slower). I managed to get it 95% as good as the passenger window.
Thanks to Phines for the bountiful info and Moncha for editing and posting it from VMAG for all of us here to benefit.
P.S.---I widened the channel by first removing as much rubber as possible (phines) and then I used two rubber "soft jaws" off my small vice on the rail (so as not to scratch the paint) while gripping with channel lock pliers and methodically went from top to bottom widening the front side of the rail. I then took a wood handle for a small sledge/hammer without the hammer head (just wood handle) and worked it up and down inside the rail twisting the handle to spread the rail so as to even out the widening done with the channelocks. Silicon sprayed the rubber and repositioned into rail...also sprayed rear rail too.
Door panel removal is as follows:
I removed with windows down.
remove "door sail" which houses the tweeter speaker by first popping small panel with small flat-head screwdriver which covers screw...remove screw; unplug tweeter and set "sail with tweeter" aside.
door switch assembly (power win, door lks) removes by lifting front side (I did with no tools)...unplug switches and set aside.
Remove the two large screws you see now.
Remove screw behind door handle and pop out door handle assembly (push to back and pull out) but do not pull away from door as you are still connected to rod...I used needle-nose pliers to pull rod forward so as to uncouple door handle assembly from rod.
unpop door panel "tabs" which run from midway down each side to bottom and along bottom of door. Carefully lift door panel up to "unhinge" from top of door.
reconnect door switch assembly and put windows up so as to begin working on rail.
The only thing that was replaced was the actual passenger side window motor. Dealer said that was fried from an electrical overload (antenna was also melted so they believed my VX to have been hit by lightning perhaps). That was prior to me fixing the rails the Moncha way. I say try Moncha's guide and if that doesnt do the trick, then start buying other options. His costs NOTHING and is done in 20 minutes.
ok ......
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Did I ever tell anyone I just hate the idea of 'door surgery' ..... removing a door panel .......... any door panel ........
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I shudder at the thought .........
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Blame it on past memories ...........
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Even though I had (have somewhere now) the tools to remove the funny looking C clips from the GM door handles and window rollers .... remember manual windows ? ............ I still have bad memories ....
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memories of the clips at the bottom of the door panel ...... the ones that would break when you would pry on the door panel to remove it .........
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OR ......
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maybe it was the time I was told to work on one of those tricky station wagon rear doors ......... the rear door/gate of a Ford wagon ...... one of those nasty types that would swing sideways like a door .... or drop down like a tailgate ............
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that is more a nightmare type of memory .....
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I would almost pull a motor and trans .......
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although I would not even know where to bolt the chain on to a VX engine .........
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Dude, if I've done door surgery, ANYONE can. :-) Granted, it didn't work all that well, but I've had 'em apart three or four times and everything still goes back together right.
Oh, those steel beam door guards ya read about in some of the VX magazine reviews and such? Not there. Same people that tell you there is no rear door handle, probably. This thing could put a real hurtin' on ya in a side impact.
Is there 4 of these clips(white nylon/teflon) that run the track? if so I'm missing one causing the window to rock anyone else here have the same problem? possible solution? thanksQuote:
Originally posted by Kahuna
Unfortunately, the clips are not replacable. I called everybody on this matter. Everybody told me I had to buy a new window and that the clips are mounted permanetly to the glass. That's why I made my own. You see, if the clips hold the window can not be thrown forward. It stays where it is suppose to.