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Although I am a "noobie" to the forum, I have not really discovered a thread dedicated specifically to lifting a VX.
I know that Calmini has a VX lift kit and am interested in reading how that lift handles as well as other lifts.
Any information would be greatly appreciated...
CM
The above mentioned thresd was done by me. It is a very simple and relatively inexspensive mod. As far as handling, you will loose a little high speed cornering ability but its not that bad. The off road gains are well worth it! ;Dy;
Can we make this a sticky in the How To or Mods section? These are GREAT instructions!!
Triathlete,
Those are great instructions. I had my OME 912 installed at a place and they cranked the torsion a ton. Should I check to see if they flipped the ball joint? If not, should I do that and then fix the torsion bar? Any one else want to comment?
Thread is in the "How To's". As far as the ball joints, the main reason to flip them is to allow for easier alignments. If you didn't have problems getting it aligned I would not worry to much about it. The ball joint flip gives a little more down travel, but it is very little (something like 2cm). Hopefully that guy didn't charge you too much to install those springs. It is only a 20 minute job at home with hand tools. With power tools and a lift probably took him like 10 minutes!
Nah, it was cheap, he did it free actually since he was installing all new tires I asked if he would through the springs on... Maybe he charged an extra 30 bucks, but I think not!!!!
Thanks, yeah, I've been riding it for close to a year and it feels fine, so I won't mess with the ball joint!
The lift kit with the right combo of tires makes the VX look 500 times better, but be aware of the warranty issues. Don't get me wrong I would never go back to the stock ride height, but I had a problem with mine. My passenger side front CV boot cracked and unfortunately it's not replaceable, you have to replace the whole half-shaft. The shaft costs about $700.00. According to the dealer the lift kit changes the angels on the front axles, thus voiding the warranty on those parts. Calmini reccomends that you install their manual locking front-hubs to disengage the front axles so that there is no torque on them with the increased angles. But then, what the hell's the point of having computer controller 4WD.
you CAN change just the boot...you DO NOT need to change a half shaft for just a bad boot..unless you neglected it for so long the grease shot out and it dried up and then fubar'd the CV
I have AISIN manual hubs and I love em...it saves wear and tear on cv's when you do not need TOD... a TOD disconnect switch would be better to totally disable front power and it also saves on mileage...
if weather permits, just lock in the hubs when you need TOD otherwise it is a waste of gas and wears cv's out faster
FYI I only got a few replies on an inquiry I made a while back regarding stock ride height (thanks to those who responded) the VX has a rake of approximately 1- 1/2 to 2" front to rear. Also, Big Meat VX recommended an axle drop of 1/2" per 1" of t-bar crank, to keep cv's happy.
Also, RWD is more fun. ;) Especially with a wheelbase like ours.
-Daver
Approximately how much does it cost to raise the VX according to these instructions?
tried contacting Big MEAT VX but received no response. How much is the 2" axle drop? I believe it is custom by welding spacers but is someone on this forum offering to do the modification? anybody bought Cromoly CV axles?
Is the TOD strong enough to handle the stress or is better to have the CV axles break as a way to protect the transfer case?
Spazz,
I am very interested in the details you mentioned about locking out the hub for less wear and tear, but I don't understand it completely. Hate to be a NeewwwBEEE,. but any chance I can get more details? These are the questions I have so far:
How does it save wear and tear? How do I go with a locking hub and then does that dissable the TOD or just force it to be in 4 wheel.... also, how do you get a TOD Disconnect switch? Do you think its a pain in the arse to install?Quote:
it saves wear and tear on cv's when you do not need TOD... a TOD disconnect switch would be better to totally disable front power and it also saves on mileage...
I ask these questions because I like TOD for street, basic dirt roads and snow, but sometimes when I am wheeling I don' tlike that it doenst engage in 4 wheel untill there is slipage or loss of grip. Please let me know if I am wrong, but wouldnt it be less risky if it was always in 4 wheel. For example, I would hate to have my car slip of a boulder and do damage because 4 wheel didnt engage until it was at a bad angle, vs already having full control going into the boulder. Right now I spend a lot of time going into 4 low just to make sure i have full control.
What is a waste of gas? How much savings do you think it will offer or what better mileage do you project with not having TOD? I don't see how the two are related.
Gracias!
! Wanna Retire...I bought my springs for $133 and then add another $40 for an alignment.
Just found out I've got a torn boot (driver's side). I'm searching for instructions to change it, but no luck so far. Can anyone point me in the right direction? What parts will I need besides the boot and clamps?Quote:
Originally Posted by SPAZZ
It really depends on how long it's been torn. You would definately want to put more grease at the least. Once it's opened up, you may find more damage. Sometimes it's just easier to change the whole shaft.
Another option, is to use poly spacers. The Old Man Emu springs have a different spring rate than stock. They will give you about 1.5" of lift. If you want to keep stock spring rate or lift VX more/less than 1.5", then the spacers are probably a better choice. The spacers come in 1", 2" and 2.5" lift. They will run less than $100. Checkout the daystar web site for more info.
Also, on the manual hubs, you will have to add the TOD disconnect switch if you add manual hubs. If you run TOD, with unlocked hubs, it confuses TOD and you will get an error light. I found this out w/ my '01 trooper. That said, the hubs and TOD disconnect switch are worthwhile mods. Aside from saving driveline wear, the setup removes quite a bit of driveline friction. Mileage will and ride will improve slightly.
here's a link to boot replacement for an isuzu.
http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/CVboots/?
Thanks, wareagle! That's exactly what I was looking for. I'm pretty sure I can just replace the boot because it hasn't been torn very long. We'll see when I get in there. :)
Well guess what? Those instructions were excellent, and I had no major problems getting the half axle taken apart and rebuilt. Then, when everything was almost complete, I found out the part the local auto parts store sold me was not the right one! The boot was about 1/8" too large (in diameter). Soooo, I had to tear everything apart again and drive to a parts store an hour away to get the right one. I'll post a write up / howto when I get everything completed tomorrow.
My advise - anyone with cranked torsion bars should pay close attention to those CV boots. If one tears, you can fairly easily fix it if you catch it son enough and save yourself the cost of a new axle.