Anybody interested in a high output alternator, I have the hookup, 160 amp, $275.00.
Rickster
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Anybody interested in a high output alternator, I have the hookup, 160 amp, $275.00.
Rickster
Is it a direct bolt in? Does it still match stock output at idle?
John C.
It is a direct bolt on, normal idle, with the stock size pulley.
If you need higher output at idle a micro pulley is available for an additional cost, of which I can get the price on Tuesday.
Rickster
I'd be interested in buyin an alt like this.
I was just worried, because some high output alts put out rated amperage only at high rpm, and almost no output at all at idle.
Between extra sets of lights, and hungry amplifiers I'm sure a better alt is not out of place. Is there any Bling options on the alt like chrome?
John C.
yes, powder coated black or colors, and chrome are options.
Just let me know what you would like, ie; chrome, powder coat (color), normal pulley or speed pulley, etc., and I will get you a price on Tuesday.
I put mine on before my trip to Vegas, and no problems at all for the entire trip. I noticed my battery voltage recovers a lot faster now with the extra power, I am running 7,400 watts now.
Rickster
I want either yellow, or chrome. Regular pulley.
I'm only running about half that wattage, I have a PH-D3, and some Tubedrivers, but I have 3 sets of aux lights.
John C.
I know the powder coat is $25 additional, but I don't know about the chrome, I'll let you know Tuesday.
Rickster
You can get a new 180 amp alternator for less than $150, the mod is listed here: PlanetIsuzoo Alternator Upgrade
I have looked around in the past and wanted to improve the risk of having mounted the unit so low and getting water damage. The issue is having the regulator inside the unit. I was looking for a quality unit with a remote regulator. The wiring is more complicated, but no big deal. Does your contact make a remote regulator version? If so, I am in.
Roy
I have doubts that a belt of our size can get enough grip to produce 180A.
John C.
No doubts mate, seen 'em in person and in use on Isuzus at Uwharrie. Good alternator, gets regularly submerged on tons of 4X4 GM products and is widely (and inexpensively) available through virtually any parts store plus rebuildable at any local starter shop. Try that with OEM! And the best part is the mod has already been developed and tested by other Isuzu enthusiasts. If I go with winches/lights/sound or mine pukes I know what I'm doing, and it won't lighten my wallet too much either. You can be down to your last nickel and still have more money than sense!;pg;
No external regulator, it's all intenal, they use the stock alternator, and wind it up to 160 amps, I had one on my Ford Ranger for 2 years, with no problems, 200 amp. Now I got one or my VehiCross, and so far so good, all the way from Houston to Vegas, and back.Quote:
Originally posted by newthings
I have looked around in the past and wanted to improve the risk of having mounted the unit so low and getting water damage. The issue is having the regulator inside the unit. I was looking for a quality unit with a remote regulator. The wiring is more complicated, but no big deal. Does your contact make a remote regulator version? If so, I am in.
Roy
Rickster
These are the prices for the alternator, let me know if you would like one, and I can give you a ship date.Quote:
Originally posted by Rickster
Anybody interested in a high output alternator, I have the hookup, 160 amp, $275.00.
Rickster
Rickster
Alternator 160 amp $275
Powdercoat
(choice of color) $ 25 additional
Chrome $100 additional
(allow 6 weeks)
Micro Pulley $ 20 additional
The issue with the internal v-regs is that they aren't always well-sealed (epoxy encapsulation) and are thus susceptible to moisture penetration and subsequent failure. An externally mounted unit or an easily repaired/replaced alternator (such as the GM 180A) is a must for serious off-roading as opposed to our expensive OEM units. At the Ocala meet last June we had three alternator failures due to this issue. Fortunately, all were replaced under warranty.
Are these still available? I would like to buy one.
http://vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/111150a.jpg
http://vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/111150a_alt.jpg
Thats the one Rick did for me.
Installation is bolt one, with the exception that I had to file the case a slight bit because of the thickness of the coating.
the alt linked in the PlanetIsuzu link is NOT a direct bolt on or connector match for us.
John C.
Whats the point of having a yeller alternator when its position is in a place where nobody will ever see it?
Well, maybe YOU could find it easier that way.....
Another helpful comment....If you saw his rig or checked his gallery, his truck is yeller....
As for the alts that failed in Florida is was NOT the water - our alt gets wet all the time when it rains and is NOT the issue. Conductive mud and sediment is what takes out alternators like these - shorts them right out. Lisa took hers through a 10' wide mud hole just deep enough to get in the alt and it blew before we were half way through. On a previous trip to the slab, 5 of us went through a 50'+ long drive through the 3'+ deep river (Jennifer even deeper) at the Slab (several times) and all of came out fine in '99-01s.
I'll 2nd the concept that it isn't fresh water that kills alternators, but the grit and grime that make water into mud. I've had more than a handful have bearing failures (2 or 3 delcos, 3 Isuzu alternators), and two electrical failures along the way. There are shops that can rebuild alternators with better (sealed) bearings if that's what you have fail out of warranty.
I'd happily take a powder coated alternator housing. For some reason my alternators always seem to corrode more than anything else on the truck. I'm pretty sure that powdercoating won't effect cooling, but it is something to think about. Paint won't radiate as well as metal, but I'm thinking that the internals produce the heat and the fan cools them directly, not that the case is being used as a heat sync for the internals.
Someone around here must know for sure about the cooling issue.
-Tad
I want a yellow one cuz Yellow is more powerful! :winky:
Anyway,,, If Rick doesn't answer this post maybe somebody knows the part number?
Same Here
ahh but what color is the rest of his engine.
I'm willing to bet it aint yeller.
If you want to color coordinate everything, you should get it done in red, to match the coils ;)
But, wonder if he wants to match the firewall??? :p
my thinking is that he should make the alt red, since it provides the juice for the coils. If he wanted to take it all the way he could heatshrink all the wires in red to give it that truely ricer feel....
Tad brought up a good point... after I read that I went out and looked up at my alternator and sho'nuff its corroded on the bottom. Some sort of protective covering might be a good idea for this part.
(bottom of my t-case is also rusting, I'm not to happy about that at all)
My T-case just started rusting too - musta been the salted roads I was on this past winter.
-- John
Uhm,, aren't our T-cases aluminum? Sure you arent talking bout your tranny pan? :confused:
I'll take 1 as well. Where do I send the money?
Technically I'm referring to several parts of the drive train from the front diff on back (didn't think about the t-case being aluminum - hmf). I'm not sure if I should clean well and apply some naval jelly or go wiht some type of rust inhibiting paint...
-- John
definitely not the tranny pan.. I know that part all too well.
Its got dark brown stuff on it. I really didn't take the time to perform a spectrum analysis on the stuff, but I'm guessing its rust. I've got a couple spots on the frame and on the gas tank skid that are suspect as well.
In the industry, that dark brown stuff is referred to as "gunk" (or mung, if it is moist). Seriously...
The aluminum is porous, and any oil will seek into the microscopic nooks and crannies and 'stain' the surface. It is generally harmless, and if it bothers you it can be 'baked off' in an oven.
The oxidation (white crust) on your aluminum bits will protect the parts. Scraping it off will just allow more of the aluminum to convert itself through corrosion. Anodizing is aluminum oxide. It's tough and protective, though in it's natural formation, ugly. Either leave it, or anodize it if you want it to be pretty.
As for the rust on your metal (steel) bits, it's natural, and may be cleaned up and sprayed with a rust converting primer. I have rust spots all over my VX due to a hack-job break in attempt (hanger marks through the paint all over the door frames, finally culminating with a screwdriver pryjob on the passenger door handle). Now that the weather's drying out, I'll be touching up these spots with said rust converting primer. Available at any auto supply store. I'll seal the job with Krylon or Undercoating or truck bed liner (depending on the location). No big deal, especially on the underside of the truck where rust prevention was never a factory concern (galvanizing is only used on body panels, and only lasts until the surface is compromised -scratched).
Sorry to go off track on the thread. I hate to see people stress out over a little bit of (unavoidable) corrosion.
the only reason I was kind of "stressed out" over it is because the underside of my trooper didn't have a speck of "rust" or "gunk" or "mung" on it after 10+ years in existence.
I didn't mean to imply that you were worried about the rust, I just wanted to settle some minds that a little corrosion is natural and acceptable.
EDIT: Everytime I think of corrosion, I'm reminded of this thread from my nasioc days. It's a funny read, here's the start (courtesy of BrianH):
Tough Life decision...what to do?
I need some advice on what could be a life changing decision.
I've suspected for some time now that my girlfriend has been having an affair. The usual signs. Phone rings, I answer, someone hangs up. She started going out 'with the girls' a lot recently although when I ask which girls it is always "Just some friends from work, you don't know them". I always look out for her taxi coming home but she always walks down the drive although I can hear a car setting off. As if she has got out of the car round the corner. Why? Is it not a taxi? I once picked her mobile up just to see what time it was and she went beserk and screamed that I should never touch her phone again and why was I checking up on her.
Anyway, I have never approached the subject with my g/f. I think deep down I just didn't want to know the truth but last night she went out again and I decided to check on her. I decided I was going to hide behind my car which would give me a view of the whole street so I could see which car she gets out of. It was whilst crouched behind my car that I noticed rust around my rear wheel arch.
Should I take it into a body repair shop or should I buy some stuff from the local auto shop and try to repair it myself?
LOL! That's pretty good. :-) I once heard a great name for girls like that, but it would never clear the censors.
Well I'm glad I'm not having the rust problem yet even though I've dunked the VX a bit in the past. It's probably due to living where they never salt the roads. The alternator is not corroded, if for no other reason than I trashed the first one and so this one is relatively new. :-)
I've noticed some vehicles stay looking new and clean and shiny on the underside, an example being my Dad's Honda Pilot. Is there some sort of process they use at the factory to do that, and if so, what?
Well,, if Rickster doesn't reply, I found a link on his Soundjamz website to a place called Mr.Alternator. The guy there says that he can get them for us. I'll wait a few days to see if he replies first.
Sherlock Fn Holmes
We want alternators rickkkkkk
My secret is lying on my back in the drive with very little clothing on and using little scrub brushes.. Neighbors think I'm nuts! :goof:Quote:
Originally Posted by Heraclid
If you do that at Moab, I will spray you with LINEX.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moncha
Bob
dude...like I told you on the phone, if he gets money he will pay attention...but, if you are not sure then just straight up call Mr alternator. That was who he got my alternator from (160 amp, powder coated, with micro pulley) is Mr alternator. So, go straight to the source. Time is ticking way too fast.