Seized up tie rods

Replaced my ball joints and took it in for alignment. The tie rods are seized up. I am going to buy these:

Shopping Cart:: Checkout
Step#1 Order Detail
Item# Item Name/Detail Qty Cost Price
1. Tie rod assy- Fits Left/Right
Make: Isuzu
Model: Vehicross
Model Year(s): 2000
Update Quantity Delete Item $143.50 $287.00
Sub Total:

From www.partswebsite.com.

Wanted to see if anyone had an opinion on the price or any other options?

Thanks.

https://www.independent4x.com/Isuzu-...ring_p_27.html

Get these. Better. Tested. Better.

yes, I know I said better twice.

Thanks Jamas I will order those. I was thinking of ordering Shocks at the same time. Would like a softer ride and mine are original.

https://www.independent4x.com/Rancho...zu-_p_259.html

Any thoughts on these shocks? Many on the forum seem to like them.

Yup X2 on the Indy 4x4 tie rods... :thumbup:

I run Calmini shocks, I like the extra length for off roading.

But for road use and less crazy off roading.....
... lots use Rancho 9000 and seem very happy with them.


Jo

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JoFotoz

Yup X2 on the Indy 4x4 tie rods... :thumbup:

I run Calmini shocks, I like the extra length for off roading.

But for road use and less crazy off roading.....
... lots use Rancho 9000 and seem very happy with them.


Jo

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Thanks for the feedback Jo. I want to eliminate the rough ride. Reading on the forum everything from cutting the rear bumpers, shocks, coil spacers etc.

Looking on the calmini sight, maybe I should go with something like this?

http://www.calmini.com/detail.php?b=3&m=11&t=1&p=800&n=

NO !....... :eek:

Sorry for shouting..BUT NO..NO..NO !


The Calmini lift kit as a whole is an utter waste of money!!

If you are thinking of lifting, a set of Old Man Emu after market rear coils....
For about $180!!...
....and cranking your Torsion bar adjusters is all that needed, unless you want
to go REALLY High!

Then I'd suggest Ranco 9000 'adjustables' , so you can tailor the ride level to suit your taste.

All you'll ever need to know about lifting:-

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...912+experiment

And enough Rancho info to last a while:-

http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sea...earchid=617516


Read all that stuff...it'll save you MANY $100's of dollars :thumbup:

And by all means get back to me with any questions :_steering


Cheers

Jo

PS see below...in blue.. :thumbup:

Thanks Jo. Don't really care for a lift just want more cushion when going over speed bumps and driving on ****ty roads.

One of your old posts:

Quote:

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X2 on Calmini coils drooping with age.

Just changed out my 2nd set ( went OME )

Calmini shocks are good, cross menber is fine but as stated already..NOT related to Diff drop at all.

Unless the Calminin kit is SUPER CHEAP...you are better buying OME coils and doing the T/B crank....
...and use OEM shocks...thats a few beers less than $200 if ya do it yourself.
Depending on how much lift you want/go for...be prepared for you CV boots to shred
pretty soon after lift...as they become "used" to being at a given angle...and many have bust theirs
soon after lifting.

If you need info on OME coils..go here for a great run down:-
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?t=15476

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After reading so many posts on the forum, I am a bit concerned f I put on new shocks I might have the same issue. Maybe I just need some new coils? :confused:

Ordered the Daystar spacers and I will shave the stops/bumpers down. Then I will re-evaluate. Thanks for the help.

ASAIK, new shocks wont/shouldnt !.. cause any CV joint/boot issues..
..as the angle of the half shafts will remain basically the same.

Unless anyone else has a different take on this...??

The beauty of the Rancho 9000's is the ability to adjust them to suit
the 'firmness' of ride to just what you like.
So this would probably solve your 'softer' ride desire.

I doubt the OEM coils are shot...
...unless you have huge mileage carry heavy loads.

Remember..its a truck..on a truck chassis ... so it will feel different to a car.

jo

I have a lot of trucks Jo and they all take bumps and holes better than my VX. :yesb:

Yea...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VXRick

I have a lot of trucks Jo and they all take bumps and holes better than my VX. :yesb:

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...the VX aint no Limo !!

Jo

Your trucks also have a considerably longer wheelbase. The short wheelbase contributes to the ride bumpiness...along with the stiff shocks and lack of up travel on the rear. The Ranchos work great. I have been running them for a couple years. I have mine set on the stiffest setting to mimic the originals but they can be softened up a lot.

I get all that Triathlete. I just am not sure if my shocks are bad and need replacing. I am going to install the spring spacer and cut the bumper. See if two more inches of travel makes a difference in the ride.

Almost everything underneath my vx has been replaced within the last two months. I have to be do for a breather....... :_beer:

If you were closer I would offer my used set of Rancho shocks for evaluation. I went back to OEM, and much prefer the stock shocks. I've been holding on to the Ranchos in case I blew another OEM shock.

I believe you will be happier with the trimmed bumpers than with different shocks. I like the way the VX handles corners with the stock bumpers.

Tie rods finally got here. Got the vx lifted a 1.5 inches.

I was a little confused on the two sets of rubber bushings and the spacers. I could only get the spacer to work on the top and the bigger rubber bushing got squashed to much. The ball joint sits close to the wheel mount when fully tight (see pic), unlike the stock rods. the steering works fine. Here are some pics.

Did I install them correctly?


http://i62.tinypic.com/287q5c4.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/razvrp.jpg

Rick,

It doesn't look like the spacer serves any purpose. Can you even get the cotter pin back in with it like that?

BTW, I ended up getting the OME shocks from Indy. I've been very happy with them. They are not adjustable but are set up for a nice mix of on/off road use. They are about the same price as Rancho's so it's really just a choice of whether you want the adjustable feature or not. I decided that I'd never change them once set so the adjustable feature would be lost on me. The OME are progressive so they are kinda light on the smaller bumps and get stiffer on the larger.

Tom

Quote:

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Originally Posted by tom4bren

Rick,

It doesn't look like the spacer serves any purpose. Can you even get the cotter pin back in with it like that?

BTW, I ended up getting the OME shocks from Indy. I've been very happy with them. They are not adjustable but are set up for a nice mix of on/off road use. They are about the same price as Rancho's so it's really just a choice of whether you want the adjustable feature or not. I decided that I'd never change them once set so the adjustable feature would be lost on me. The OME are progressive so they are kinda light on the smaller bumps and get stiffer on the larger.

Tom

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I need the spacer or the pin will sit too high above castle nut. I read some old post last night and a couple people describe the same thing I have. The bearing rod is smaller than the stock therefore travels to far into tapered housing leaving very little room for boot/grease and movement. It seems a few others have installed them so I just want to find out if theirs was done the same way as mine, before I start driving it.

Thanks for the knowledge on the Shocks Tom!

I can't see your pics here at "work", but from your description you have it right. The tie rods that Indy4x came up with for the HD tie rod system are for an old Ford pickup, and while the taper is correct they are too long without the spacer.

Not sure what you mean by "large rubber bushings" though. Are you referring to the dust boot? If so, it just kind of squishes down over the top of the joint to keep dirt out of the joint.