I apologize..either I dont know how to use the search option..or just cant find what im looking for..if I can be pointed the way to cv removal of the drivers side would be great..thank you for your time
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I apologize..either I dont know how to use the search option..or just cant find what im looking for..if I can be pointed the way to cv removal of the drivers side would be great..thank you for your time
I just read this..now my question is..I have the whole cv axle..even with the 20in shaft that goes into the differential..is i even necessary to replace the whole thing? I just have a torn outer boot?
Can I possibly return this and get a half shaft?
No, it is not necessary to change the whole thing. If you just have a torn boot then you can replace just the boots. If the CV is damaged then you can just replace the half shaft. Both options are much easier than replacing the whole axle.
Getting the entire axle assembly out is a much more difficult process, requiring dropping the front diff, new axle seals etc...just get some boots and you can repair your half shaft.
Ok..so riddle me this..since I already have the entire assembly, could I just cut the band on the boot on the green cup of the new assembly and connect it right there at the green cup on the Czech? What can I use for a band if I cut that one?
Sorry not czech I meant VX
Yes, if it is the same size (aftermarket ones are sometimes different if purchased with the entire axle shaft). Any auto parts store sells CV boot bands, there are different styles, just pick one.Quote:
Originally Posted by heavy d
Yes!!
But what replacement shaft do you have???
The steps are:-
Cut the band only on cup..not both...
and remove the ballrace/joint from the green cup...
...this releases the outer / half shaft.
Clean out the existing green cup...and put copious grease in it :smack:
Insert ballrace/joint of half shaft into green cup..with boot still attached to new 1/2 shaft.
Use either an off the shelf metal band ( need banding tool too ) or a Zip tie..
...to secure boot to indent notch in green cup.
Re-assemble the rest..pour a cocktail !
Hope that helps :_steering
Jo
BTW..IF for any reason you need new boots I recommend:-
Dormand..outer...#614-001
Dormand. inner...#614-002
:_beer:
Jo
Just did my driver's side a few days ago. Easy as pie.
Unless you know something's buggered in the axleshaft, just pop the new half shaft out of the the cup and re-insert into existing cup. It's a whole other ball of wax if you want to replace the entire thing into the differential...
Takes me less than an hour to replace the joint if it's pre-greased with boots on.
Take tire off - remove hub snap ring - pop the lower ball joint (saves stressing out the ABS wires) - slide axle out of hub - pull boot off inner cup - REMOVE LOCK RING in cup and slide out the axle. Take care no to pull apart brake cables and ABS sensor wires while maneuvering the rotor/hub.
Remove the grease out of the cup and feel around for any wear across the grooves (where the balls slide into) and replace with new grease. If there is wear, then keep that new cup and shaft to replace down the line. Usually if there is too much wear, you can hear the joint poping when playing around in 4-lo.
Good luck.
Many members have replaced just the boots and not changed out axles, half shafts, jack shafts (pick whatever term works for you ... :) ... we tend to use the terms interchangeably). I've attached the file for replacing just the boots. BTW, I ended up just using zip ties instead of the metal bands with very good luck.Quote:
Originally Posted by heavy d
Oooo, Iccckk!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
Dorman didn't last any better for me than MechaTech. I ended up just using AutoZone that looked much like OEM & they lasted & were cheaper.
i used zipties instead of those stupid metal bands - much easier with no problems
Use Napa boots if you need them.
:eek:......
..my experience with Dorman has been VERY good.Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
Changed one soon after lifting tore the OEM boot ( pretty norm!).
And changed one since that got 'attacked' by a rock.
I guess your Iccckkk...for me does the trick :p:cool::p
Jo
.
X2, X3, and X4Quote:
Originally Posted by Jonnie
I tried several boots and Napa has the thickest and most "rugged" that I dealt with.
Also......while the inner and outer boots fit interchangeabley, you will notice the flex points are different on each and Napa sells them as 2 different part numbers.
Boot fight!!!
IMO..thickest and most rugged doesnt = best!Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
The grey Dormand are strong, AND FLEXIBLE... silicone like material.
...to me, the flexibility combined with tear reisitance is the answer :p
And YUP..totally agree about using zip ties instead of the metal bands :thumbup:
jo
I'm speaking from a statistical sample of one ... & I was less than pleased.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
:cool:..
Did you use the black ones or the grey ones?Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
jo
Grey (thought that was the only Dormans available)
Of course the black MechaTechs didn't last any better for me.
Okee Dokiee.. !
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
IIRC the Dormands changed about 4 ish years ago from Black to the more
pliable/stronger grey.
Anyhoooo! I'm good with them :thumbup:
Jo
Good to hear WJQuote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
Rekin that makes you special:)
Got the shafts off any tip how to get axle shafts out now. Need to drop the whole thing?
I got torn CV boots, don't know how long they have been torn, maybe a few years. replacing entire axles is a major pain huh?
You seldom have to replace the entire shaft. Normally it is the outer CV boot that goes, very seldom the inner.Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboyErik
Before going into the (rather serious) task of replacing the whole shaft, first check the condition of the CVs by just pulling the half-shaft assembly out of the inner. Watch out the balls go flying easy, so take care when pulling it out.
Earlier in the thread there is a description on how to go about it.
If your inner boot is fine, chances are that the inner CV is also fine.
Rule of thumb, if the CVs are knackered, they will be noisy when turning sharp in 4L. Same as a FWD with buggered CVs car going around a corner. Loud Click, Click, Click
If this doesn't happen, you might be able to just take them apart, grease them proper, fit new boots and reassemble....holding thumbs for you.