Window Fix

I tried to a few of the fixes on the forum for the window problem and did not have much luck with them. I came up with this and is working good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyZQ...ature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fq6REqde3zY


Video's of both sides. The passenger side was working but I could tell it was on the way out so I took care of it also.

Tried a few different ideas with bearing arrangements that did not work so great (pics below). the single bearing mounted to the plate worked best.

http://i59.tinypic.com/99ibfd.jpg
http://i57.tinypic.com/2gugt3m.jpg


I think a better way to go would be two or four bearing mounted directly to the plate and forgo the white clips all together. For now this seems to work good. About 1 hour time on each side and less than $15 per side. The bearing holds the plate to the slide bar and keeps it aligned.

http://i62.tinypic.com/33ommme.jpg

Very interesting. Right now I'm using the "added washer" method and it works, however the windows go up very slowly and it's probably putting undue stress on the lift motor.

-- John

Nice fix!

Come join us on the 23rd down in Denver for the coffee meet.

Meeting note has been posted.

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Originally Posted by VXRick

I came up with this and is working good.

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KUDOS. That's perzakly the fix I had in mind but never quit procrastinating long enough to try it out.

The Proton's passenger window is tilting now so I rekin it's time to do the fix.

How important is re-installing the vapor barrier for the doors? I need to replace the door speakers, so I will be removing panels again. I don't see the need for it, but maybe I am thinking wrong?

I deemed it important enough that when mine became so brittle that I couldn't use it any more, I made a new one out of a heavy duty trash bag & duct taped it into place.

A significant amount of water does get in around the windows and flows down inside the door & out through a drain in the bottom of the door. It's best to keep any trapped moisture away from the door panels until it evaporates or drains out.

In the old TLC I used to have, the drain would tend to clog. The water would accumulate in the door until it got high enough to seep through the door panel and saturate the carpet. It always surprised me how much water flowed through the door.

This is a great fix. I wish You would have posted it when I had my doors apart a couple of weeks ago. The only thing I would change is to possibly use the two bearing setup on the front side of the mechanism since when the window goes up it wants to tip forward.

For the vapor barrier - go to BigLots or some other dollar-type store and buy a clear shower curtain. Lay it over the old lines and cut the pattern first, then buy some black interior trim adhesive and apply it over the old lines. Make sure you get all of the original off first and you have to make a couple of holes for linkages and stuff. Looks like original.

-- John

sounds like a much better fix than my 'trash bag' approach.:)

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Originally Posted by johnnyapollo

For the vapor barrier - go to BigLots or some other dollar-type store and buy a clear shower curtain.

-- John

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Or if you're the decorator type just find a nice animal print or your favorite cartoon character...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:

Since it has gotten cold recently here in Colorado I have noticed my windows go up very slow. Way to much stress on the motor. The glass does stay aligned with the bearing but more needs to be done. To much friction in cold weather. Going to meetup with Jake hopefully next week and work on both our windows, maybe add some bungee cords....:confused:

Rick - make sure that the rubber is completely seated in the front track. It's actually very easy for it to not sit in there correctly. There's a square base that sits in the track and then each side of the seal has a very small "J" lip that sits over the metal edge of the track. If both of those "J" lips are not properly seated then the gap in the track becomes to narrow and it will pinch the window as you raise it. That piece of rubber also has a pinch seal as well as a flap. I trimmed down the flap just a bit and it helped greatly.

Also make sure that where the forward rubber piece comes out of the door and meets the widow rubber is correct. That's another place where if it's not lined up correctly it will pinch the glass and bind.

It took me a good hour of deciphering these things. Once I found what was up and I corrected the problem my windows go up and down great without and problems.

BTW - can you please send some of your extra cold to Cali? It's 104 here today!

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Originally Posted by ahdoman

Rick - make sure that the rubber is completely seated in the front track. It's actually very easy for it to not sit in there correctly. There's a square base that sits in the track and then each side of the seal has a very small "J" lip that sits over the metal edge of the track. If both of those "J" lips are not properly seated then the gap in the track becomes to narrow and it will pinch the window as you raise it. That piece of rubber also has a pinch seal as well as a flap. I trimmed down the flap just a bit and it helped greatly.

Also make sure that where the forward rubber piece comes out of the door and meets the widow rubber is correct. That's another place where if it's not lined up correctly it will pinch the glass and bind.

It took me a good hour of deciphering these things. Once I found what was up and I corrected the problem my windows go up and down great without and problems.

BTW - can you please send some of your extra cold to Cali? It's 104 here today!

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Installed the bearing on Jakes VX with a bit of "rubber trimming". Works ok for now, see what happens when the cold weather sets in.

http://i61.tinypic.com/30il40h.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/jtaofq.jpg

Just a thought as someone who had the passenger window on my JDM shatter when after I had silicone sprayed the runners. Will these braces place too much of a point load on the part of the window where its fixed? because that was the only thing I could think of that would have made my window go bang and shatter into a thousand pieces. I also noticed that the small bolt that holds the window fixing in was packed out with washers (by the factory perhaps to align it?)

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Originally Posted by David Wiltshire

Just a thought as someone who had the passenger window on my JDM shatter when after I had silicone sprayed the runners. Will these braces place too much of a point load on the part of the window where its fixed? because that was the only thing I could think of that would have made my window go bang and shatter into a thousand pieces. I also noticed that the small bolt that holds the window fixing in was packed out with washers (by the factory perhaps to align it?)

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What is a JDM? What braces are you referring to? Where are you seeing a bolt packed out with washers? Just installing a bearing in the post above.

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Originally Posted by VXRick

What is a JDM? What braces are you referring to? Where are you seeing a bolt packed out with washers? Just installing a bearing in the post above.

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Hi,
JDM is the Japanese models imported into the UK.
I just wonder if the roller bearing may put a load against the large white plastic fixing that holds the window in place because I think my window shattered from tension between where the roller bearing is and the white fixing that holds the window in place.
After the window shattered I dismantled the white plastic window holder from the frame and discovered that the small bolt you see at the bottom of the white plastic holder was packed out with washers, I'm just guessing it was done at the factory as I haven't touched it.
I would add this is just a suggestion about what could happen, I think your idea looks very good and I'll look forward to your updates

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Originally Posted by VXRick

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyZQ...ature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fq6REqde3zY

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Videos seem to be set to private. Any way you could make them public? Thanks

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Originally Posted by LittleBeast

Quote:

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Originally Posted by VXRick

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyZQ...ature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fq6REqde3zY

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Videos seem to be set to private. Any way you could make them public? Thanks

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Hoping for this as well

Me too, this looks like a great idea, I wish I could see the video to go with it

Not trying to derail your thread or anything I just want to give people options for the window problem so I made a thread and added all the other fixes I found including this thread. Lots of fix options. http://www.vehicross.info/showthread...ght=new+window