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So I have this awesome rear skid plate coming from JO...but I need some help:
What is the best way to finish this to get a good match for the front skid plate that I have from Rowhard? I have the paint already because I am going to refinish the front one as well. I just need some help on how to prep the rear one to look great.
What are the best fasteners to use?
Does anyone have a template for the mounting holes?
Thanks for the help and advice.
Well.... I can help on the prep..and look fwd to answers on fitting!
I've never fitted a set... only removed :)
As far as prep to get a match front and back...
Any mold blemishes/bubbles can be filled with bondo...then sanded.
Then, overall Wet & dry sanding is best, I'd say 150/220 grit initially both front and back plates
Then, a couple of good coats of primer , hi build is great, and sands well.
Once primer is REALY dry on both, wet & dry again with 220 then 400.
Edges are tricky, as primer will 'sand off" fast..so beware!
A properly sanded 400 finish will be perfect for top coat application.
Rattle can is fine, just build up layers carefully to avoid runs.
Final finish coat should be an even , overall 'wet' coat to ensure uniform look.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Regarding template/fastners etc... I'm interested in ideas too!
As per PM's we traded Earl.. people seem to mount plates in different ways.
Some give them an all round riveted/bolted look..but some of these are 'faux' and simply cosmetic. Others drill cladding.
Front plate will attach through centre and into the bolts holes for the license "blank".
And I'm afraid thats about the extent of my knowledge on these!
Maybe Kat or Dub or..?? anyone thats fitted new plates can chime in :thumbup:
Hope so !
Jo
Keeping in mind that I'm a neanderthal that has no qualms about drilling/cutting/screwing into cladding...this might help...;)
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...ard+skid+plate
pretty much what LDub said. If your going to rattle can it, I might have the color code still. Haven't checked the laws lately, but you might be able to get it mixed and shoved into a rattle can at a autopaint store. Warm the can in some hot water first, helps it flow better. Long strokes, edge to edge and Bob's your uncle. Jo can explain:) As far as attaching, just use longer fasteners that secure the cladding. You should be able to get the fake fasteners at Fastenal, just cut and grind them down and glue them in. Not sure if Jo's plates have the holes drilled or marked but if not just take your time and eyeball it.
Thanks for your input John...:thumbup:
The plates I produced are not drilled.Quote:
Originally Posted by rowhard
People seems to fit in various ways, so left options open.
Jo
Regards to getting exact dimensions on the mounting locations for the rear plate, if the mold was extracted from an original abs rear plate that I did, then I can get you that info. Also, can provide specs on the hardware as it requires longer screws to go through the oem rear bumper cladding brackets. I'll try to put something together next week as I'm tied up with work currently.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
@Jo, also I might be able to provide a copy of the side plates that I'm designing, if you want to duplicate those in fiberglass for the community as well. We can talk more in detail via pm later if you want. rudy (ron)
Here's a thread I did on fitting mine:
http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...kid+plate+50mm
Had to use a C-clamp vice grips to pull the plate into alignment with the cladding holes. I used 45mm and 50mm bolts, but it turned out I could have gone with shorter ones after the vice grips pulled it into closer alignment.
I used neoprene washers as protector between metal washer and painted plate. (See last pic)
The links in that thread are dead, so here's the pics.
First pic is to show the detail on the fake studs.
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...s/DSC01747.jpg
FRONT PLATE:
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...s/DSCF3934.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCF3935.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCF3972.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...s/DSCF3960.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...s/DSCF3955.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...s/DSCF3949.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCF3936.jpg
Here's the REAR SKID fitted:
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...s/DSC_6307.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCF4019.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSC_6304.jpg
Back of rear plate:
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSC_5470.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...s/DSC_8298.jpg
Thanks for all of the help...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:
Sue, are the top fasteners just for looks or did you put holes in the cladding?
I looked at the photos of you handing off your VX to the new owner and it did not appear that there were any holes in the cladding where the top fasteners would be.
Thanks again.
Yeah, I said in post above the entire top row of studs are fakes. In last photo, (of the back of the rear skid), you can see the fake studs. No holes in cladding were made at all. And when I installed the plates, I used 1/2 neoprene washers glued on to cover the cut off end of fake screws so they couldn't scratch the cladding.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mile High VX
Also, I don't know why there were 4 holes drilled in the front plate where the license plate delete installs, I only used 2 of those 4, and bought a a bolt witha washer neck and glued it in just to cover the hole.
Can kind of see it in these pics:
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...DSCN0815-2.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_6646.JPGhttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSCF1287.JPG
Huge Thanks SUE!!
Great pics and write ups...
.. much appreciated :thumbup:
Jo
I ordered a premixed rattle can from a place online that does touch up colors.Quote:
Originally Posted by rowhard
Your front plate is still holding up great, but I needed to refinish it due to the CO road rocks...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:
One can should be enough to do both and thanks for all the advice.
[quote=Mile High VX;292859 Your front plate is still holding up great, but I needed to refinish it due to the CO road rocks...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:
[/quote]
pick up a tube of glazing putty, (fine body filler) to fill in the CO road rocks if they are small chips out of the finish. Apply thinly with a a plastic spreader, sand with some 320 dry, prime then wet sand with 4 or 600 grit and it will be perfect for painting.
Earl - I have like 40 or 50 fasteners for these skid plates in my tool box (Fastenal only sold them in packs of 50). I'll send you a set for free, just PM me your address again. Jo I can send you the remainder so you can include them with your plates if you like. The bags are heavy so I might ask you for a few bucks in shipping, but we can discuss that offline.
Thanks for the offer :thumbup:...
I'll pass thanks Mav.....Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
Seems some want 'studded' look..many others dont.
So getting into drilling/supplying fasteners was/is gonna be something thats easier for individuals to do..as they see fit.
In trying to keep the price per set as affordable as possible....
.... producing a generic set of "blanks" for owners to 'customize' to their own specs seemed like the way to go.
But..many thanks... maybe some will take you up on offer though.
Cheers
jo
I think you need these fasteners whether you go with the studded look or not because you need something to hold the bottom of the plates up against the cladding...
I think you'll find that both front and back secure with bolts on lower lip.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
Front has the two bolts going in the license plate blank holes ...
...then two more under lower lip into pre-existing bolt holes.
This should hold securely.. I've seen it work!
And..I've seen it with exposed 'all round' bolts either "cosmetic'..or into actual cladding.
And back has 5 pre existing bolt holes under lower lip ( 4 if you have hidden hitch!)...
...that can be used.
I've seen these used 'only'..and these plus upper lip 'exposed' bolts....
..either cosmetic or into cladding.
Kats pics show the detail really well.
:thumbup:
Jo
So we agree that regardless of whether you go with exposed cosmetic bolts or drilled-into-cladding bolts on the top of the plates you still need 2 bolts for the license plate area, 2 bolts for the lower front cladding, and 4/5 bolts for the lower rear cladding right? If so wouldn't every buyer need those bolts? What I'm telling you is I have bolts, washers, and nuts that are exactly the right length, thread, and pitch for all those holes.
Ah OK..I'm a little slow today!
I thought you were talking 'cosmetic' cut studs/bolts...my bad :_brickwal
Given I've already shipped all but a couple of secondary orders...
.. not sure I'm the right guy to send them to now.
Silly to ship to me..then I ship to end user from here anyway.
Really appreciate the help/offer though :thumbup:
Jo
No worries Jo! And anyone who needs hardware feel free to send me a PM...