Just made the switch. I am burning even more oil than before. Ridiculous amounts now.
Been reading a lot on the planet and other forums about using Rotella and decided it was time today. Gallon T6 and a quart of Mystery Oil.
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Just made the switch. I am burning even more oil than before. Ridiculous amounts now.
Been reading a lot on the planet and other forums about using Rotella and decided it was time today. Gallon T6 and a quart of Mystery Oil.
Looking forward to reading of your feedback on this. It's the next thing to try out on the Amigo before copying over to the VXs.
Thanks for standing up to do the beta test for us.
I've ran it for the last 20,000 miles I top up once between oil changes and spend a lot of time on highways.
I'm not sure if I'm on the t6 I'll check which one when I get home.
Did you start using Rotella because of oil consumption?Quote:
Originally Posted by ABDragonVX
I use Rotella full synthetic and it uses less oil than in the past for sure.
So save me a read and tell me what makes Rotella special vs. other synthetics?
Detergents.
It's what the big rigs use that put upwards of 5 mil mi on them.
I'm going to assume that means big $$$$ too?
$27.99 for a gallon and then an additional $6.79 for the last quart. About $10 more than Mobil 1.Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
I ran rotella in my F250, 5 gallons each oil change. Costs me couple hundred bucks to change oil, filter and small fuel filter every oil change. Cool thing, the harder you work the diesel, the less often you need to change oil. Working the old girl keeps the soot from building up. I may switch to rotella on my next VX oil change, in like 8 months! only put a few hundred miles a month on the VX:)
T6 which is the synthetic was $20 for me and should be near that price at WalMarts... I got mine at Advanced Auto. This was for the gallon jug.
Over time, and not in the first couple or few oil changes, you should notice improved consumption. The detergents should clean the drain holes over time. Most, if not all trial reports that were neutral were because they expected a miracle in the first change. I know to give it time. It makes sense, the lubrication is there, just now with more detergents and that can only help our feeding issues. Or should....
My increased oil consumption is due to my commute. I'm driving 20miles one way a day and 12miles of it is a 75mph zone. From my reads, increased speed tends to burn more oil.
I use rotella for a entore year before trading the VX and is a excelent oil.
Just do a google's customer review search over the oil
I've been running the Rotella T6 for a while now. IMO, it burns just as much oil. I wouldn't say more than before, but definitely about the same.
Bart
Dang. There you go pissing on my charcoal again ... & I had such high hopes for the magic elixer.Quote:
Originally Posted by nfpgasmask
Maybe, just maybe, the secret equation is 1 gallon T6 and 1 Quart Mystery Marvel
Or its just the 1 quart marvel mystery oil.Quote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
So how is Marvel different from Seafoam? I seem to remember a recommendation from someone (or maybe it's even on the Seamfoam package) to only add the detergent in the last X many miles before an oil change. Agree that you're cleaning the gunk if you put it in at the oil change, but where is that gunk going over the 3-5K miles between changes? Is it just clogging your oil filter that much faster?
Im changing the next couple at 1.5k.
I didn't start because of extreme oil consumption but I had to check at every gas up. My friend has a rodeo and he recommended it. After the switch I definitely burn less. Another little trick I've started doing is about 100miles before an oil change I dump seafoam in and let it do it's thing.Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
If I recall you add the seafoam before an oil change because it slowly deteriorates your oils ability to lubricate parts. It helps lossen up deposits that would otherwise not move between your 3-5k mile oil change.Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
We use Marvel and Mobil1 continuously to curb oil use. Please make sure your EGR system is clean, also. It affects oil use if plugged.
Seafoam is basically a solvent...you don't want to run it very long with that in there.
I've read the same thing about using fuel system cleaners like the stuff from Chevron with Techron. You run something like that in the last tankful of gas before oil change time for the exact reason you stated.Quote:
Originally Posted by vt_maverick
....am I crazy...or just missing somthing. What does it matter if you add the fuel additive before or after an oil change? They dont mix.Quote:
Originally Posted by Y33TREKker
im willing to try anything - quarts of marvel, cans of seafoam, nothing works on mine so far - and ive stuck with them for months
id say i use a gallon inbetween oil changes - disgusting.
Just out of curiosity, have you cleaned the EGR or replaced the pcvQuote:
Originally Posted by evillecutter
i clean my pcv with carb cleaner every week or so - never took the egr off to look at it closely - how would i know if it was messed up and how might one go about cleaning that sucker?Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
Because particles from deposits that get broken up or dissolved in your intake passages when using a fuel system cleaner can end up in your crankcase via blowby since that mixture ends up in the combustion chamber/engine cylinder.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
You can obviously add a fuel additive whenever you want, it just makes more sense to do so in your last tank full of gas before an oil change so that any deposits that get broken up get later removed when the oil filter is changed, and better to remove those deposits at that time rather than leave them in the filter to contaminate new oil.
Almost sounds like it'd be worth trying a method similar to an overnight soak in a parts bath. If Seafoam is basically kerosene, I wonder what would happen if a person drained the oil, removed all the spark plugs, and just filled the cylinders with kerosene to give the rings a chance to actually soak rather than just be subjected to a mixture of oil and Seafoam?Quote:
Originally Posted by evillecutter
Or to take that even a step further, I have no idea how much kerosene would be necessary to achieve a fill level from the oil pan up high enough that all the rings in all the cylinders would actually be able to soak, or if that would even be enough since some parts still need to be scrubbed after an overnight soak, but if you're using a gallon of oil between changes, could it really make things any worse?
I'd add a disclaimer though that I've never looked at a VX motor straight on to even eyeball how high a piston at TDC in a cylinder would be in relation to the rest of the motor, to get an idea where that high a level of kerosene would take kerosene in the rest of the motor when the fluid leveled out, so that kind of soak might take kerosene to parts of an engine where it shouldn't be.
just for giggles i got a new egr and pcv valve - no change - whats weird is that it doesnt really smoke... - im assuming that the rings are burnt but i would think i would get a lot of smoke from this
I don't get smoke from mine either, but I get a lot of black soot from the tail pipe. Every time I start my VX is belches out a bunch of soot onto the ground behind the tailpipe.Quote:
Originally Posted by evillecutter
Bart
we are in the same boat gasmask - i guess as long as i dont look like uncle buck driving down the road its not that bad - just costs me a lot in oilQuote:
Originally Posted by nfpgasmask
+2 on the soot fart. :)
I get the same. In fact where I back out of the garage I have rocks along the edge of the driveway. The area directly behind where I back out is noticeably darker that the other areas of rock...:(
Yous guyz really oughtta try the Marvel Mystery Oil soak! When your VX has some down-time, (couple-o-days) remove the spark plugs and pour a couple of ounces of MMO down each cylinder and rotate the crank a few times and then let it soak for a few days. Replace your plugs and fire it up and let 'er smoke! Replace your plugs with a fresh set and see if that clears your plugged oil return holes. It absolutely frees sticky rings so I can't see how it wouldn't help unplug those pesky oil return holes...:_confused
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Larson
Doing this over the next couple days. Just put the MMO in a few minutes ago, and the truck'll be sitting for 72 hrs. We'll see what happens. Currently going through about a quart every 3K miles.
Keep us posted.Quote:
Originally Posted by eternal21
Yeah let me know.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHarris1385
Roger, however, reading this thread http://vehicross.info/forums/showthread.php?p=264550 I doubt it will work. Reason being, the MMO is supposed to help loosen baked/dried up oil in those 2 oil passages/holes in the bottom ringland.Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMAS
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...ill_Points.jpg
When I pulled my spark plugs, there was no oil on them which means there's no blow by (i.e., no oil is getting past the rings). Given that, I'm doubting the MMO will make it past the rings to the oil holes. The MMO needs to be applied *under* the rings, not on top.
I went the Rotella route, and burned 1 qt during the oil change window. Then I noticed that it's 5W-40. From now on I'm going to run:
a) 50% Rotella 5W-40 w/
b) 50% Mobil/Royal Purple 5W-20
This way I can
a) get a detergent in there on a consistent basis and
b) make sure it shears down to a 30W when it is up to temp. I'm afraid that 40W is making the engine work that much harder.
For oil top offs between oil changes, I'm going to use MMO. Hopefully, with the Rotella/MMO mixture, at some point this thing'll stop burning oil w/out me having to rebuild it w/the newer-style, 4 oil passage pistons.