grinding/rubbing sound when turning...need help! please please!

Ok
so this will be a bit of a long post but I want to give all the details.

When I take a left turn there is a grinding/rubbing sound coming from the front right/Passenger side tire.

It sounds just like the wheel rubbing on something but it just started out of the blue and I've had these tires on since I've owned the VX.

So I sprayed some removable paint all inside the fender well to see if I could see any marks...nothing.

Rotated the tires to see if the tire was the cause and it's still at the right front.

The sound goes away the second I touch the brakes so I assumed it was brake related
Changed the Brake pads...still there.

New Caliper!...Still there

New Rotor!!! and packed the bearings <---Bitch to do lol ...still there :mado:

WTF!!?? the CV joint would be my next target,but like I said the sound goes away when I brake.

Also it's getting worse and it starting to do it when I drive straight...

Any help would be great. please...it's driving me nuts!

My vote is CV.

I second this. you should be able to tell right away if the boot is ripped or if you jack up the front and spine that tire when it is turned. you should be able to put your hand on the joint as you turn and feel if the issue is at that location.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Triathlete

My vote is CV.

---

Well the CV is not riped and looks fine from a visual inspection.
That will be my next target to change out.
Only reason I didn't do it yet was cus it went away even from the lightest tap of the brakes. second I let off the brake it comes back.

Hmmm, those symptoms really really sound like wheel bearings. Did you do the inner and the outer bearings? I also thought our bearings were not really repackable? When I went to the Isuzu stealership a long time ago, they said they should be be replaced, not repacked.
I second the recommendation for checking the CV joint, but if the boot isn't ripped, it should be fine.
Just for giggles, you can also check two more things:
1.Check the front diff gear oil level
2.Remove the ABS fuse and see if the problem clears.

same thing happened to me and itle get louder and louder. id it is the cv, id change that asap. I slacked on mine and it ended up eating away all m y bearings, and everything elce. so get that checked first bro. just a friendly opinion

sounds exactly the same as when my transfer case went bad - everyone kept trying to tell me it was my cv but it was not

It could be the bearings on the opposite side of what you thought. We swapped out bearings on all 4 wheels of my wife's car until we got to the correct wheel. We kept thinking we could hear it in the wrong wheel. Sounds travel weird.

I think it would be weird for the transfer case to be the issue when the noise is in the front?
But as Jamas said, noise travels weird, put it up on 4 jack stands and see if you can replicate the sound while you stand outside. That is how I figured out it was my Trooper's rear wheel bearings vice the differential. It really sounded like diff noise inside the truck, on stands, it was obvious it was from the wheels.

my noise sounded like it was coming from the drivers side front wheel - at least thats what it sounded like when inside the vehicle - had to get out and have someone else drive it to tell it was really coming from the middle - still never really sounded like the tcase, but having it rebuilt fixed it - hopefully with hcloud it is something less expensive

started out pinging and occasionally popping, then got worse and would sound like rubbing and as if it was going into 4lo when i took a sharpish corner (like pulling into a parking space)

i know what cv's going bad sound like and this was a different animal - i almost thought it was something wrong in the steering box or power steering system but that all checked out fine

When were the front wheel bearings last repacked? I would try repacking front wheel bearings or replacing front wheel bearings, and then CV. To check your CV's just put it in 4-Low and take a sharp left and then right turns. If you hear/feel clicking or grinding, that would be your CV's. If not, I am thinking bearings. But then again, I would check ball joints, steering links, sway bar connections, and shock attachments, just to make sure it is not a weird alignment thing.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LittleBeast

When were the front wheel bearings last repacked? I would try repacking front wheel bearings or replacing front wheel bearings, and then CV. To check your CV's just put it in 4-Low and take a sharp left and then right turns. If you hear/feel clicking or grinding, that would be your CV's. If not, I am thinking bearings. But then again, I would check ball joints, steering links, sway bar connections, and shock attachments, just to make sure it is not a weird alignment thing.

---

That'll only check your outer CVs. Inner CVs are only mildly stressed in turns. They are stressed in situations of suspension flex.

Cloud, I'm thinking bearings as well. The easy test for this is to jack up the front and jiggle the whole wheel assembly top to bottom. If you get any play, then the bearing pre-load needs to be adjusted (or bearing replacemnet).

I always start with the simple stuff & work towards the harder. Since you've already checked the brakes & CVs (I assume all 4 & not just the outers), pump some grease in your U-Joints, check fluid levels in the transfer case, tranny, front & rear differentials. Have you had an alignment done recently? If not, then do so (that shouldn't make a grinding sound but if caster is way off, then you may have a tire touching something in a turn (ask me how I know)).

Let me resurrect this one with a problem I'm having... So I replaced the both inner and outer wheel bearings up front,/both sides, the the "grinding noise got A LOT better (it doesn't shake my entire front end when in 4 low & never happens in "HIGH") But now, when in 4 low if i turn the wheel while riding brake or just ride the brake, I get a slipping/clunking/grinding noise from up front. placed on lift, let all 4 fly in 4 low, turned wheel...nothing...start to ride brakes...noise comes back??? any ideas???

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by magikmike

...start to ride brakes...noise comes back??? any ideas???

---

UMMMM ... brakes????

If your brake pads are in good shape, you could still have a warped rotor. Have rotors turned or replaced & replace brake pads while you're at it.

^^^^ x2

thanx tom & tri... Brakes are new all the way around, the brake statement might have been misleading. It is more a difference in wheel speed (brakes and/or wheel turning) that cause it. It also happens when I just crank the wheel in either direction (weight on wheels)

Hi
Not sure if I updated on my end how I fixed my problem.
It ended up being my front CV joints. Replaced them both and all my grinding/rubbing sounds went away.

Agreed. Check the CV boots to see if there are any tears or splits. CVs don't like to run dry.

I replaced both CV (outers) earlier this year...boots and axles still look new?

Mike,

Even though you just had a brake job, go ahead and tear down your brakes again anyway. Just remove the calipers but leave the pads in place. Inspect the rotor for any signs it's not true (lines, grooves, discoloration). Look at the surface of the pads too without removing them. Also make sure that the calipers are moving freely. Lastly, before you button it all back up, take a quick look behind the brake shield to see if a rock or something got stuck in there.

Once before (not on the VX) I had brake noise right after replacing the pads. I went through what I just described & could find nothing wrong ... but after I put it all back together, the noise was gone.:_confused

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Hcloud13

Ok

New Rotor!!! and packed the bearings <---Bitch to do lol ...still there :mado:

---

I have mentioned this many times before, but here goes again -

When you repacked your wheel bearings, did you check and repack the needle roller bearing inside the steering knuckle where the CV shaft rotates against the stationary knuckle??

PK

Ok, so on a whim, this was really annoying me, so i went ahead and removed inner boot from the cup on the right side axle. There was SO much play between the cup and the bearing knuckle it wasn't even funny! So because Amazon was all sold out of the Surtracks I went to another website (davesdiscountauto.com, great customer service but that's for another day/thread). I ordered the whole axle instead of just the outer portion. Still was making grinding/binding noise, but seemed to be exclusive to the driver side. Soooo i ordered the the entire driver side axle. Finally got around to installing it tonight and now no more grinding!!!!!!!!! Unfortunately when I had the passenger side jacked up to check the cup/knuckle, there was still weight on the driver side, so it didn't seem to have any play (thus why I just didn't order to begin with). One thing I forgot to do is straighten the wheel when I put the idler/pitman arm on, and now my steering wheel is upside down. It should be an easy fix, I'm just happy I can go play in the snow and not worry about the 4wd anymore! Thank you all for your support, I will try and post the pictures and video I have to help explain this. So I guess you should always be careful what parts you get, even if they are from your "mechanic" friend. I don't blame him, we were just putting on the part that his distributer sent us. I can honestly say I'm now a self proclaimed wiz at doing full axle changes, BUT if I never do another 1in my life, it will be too soon!!!!!! Hopefully with the surtracks (as recommended by a few on here) it'll be outer shafts from here on out. That's all I have for now, I've been up for almost 24 hours and I'm typing this out on my tablet in bed and I think my girlfriend is going to KILL me! Good night all.

I have never taken the steering off to drop the axle...it just adds to the fun.

I did the first time, second time, no way I am removing the pitman arm again.