I just received the diagnosis that it is time for new rear brake rotors and pads.
Isuzu rotors are over $ 200 each!
Please offer your experiences and decisions on the matter.
OEM Vs Slotted and/or Drilled?
Anyone use R1?
Thanks!
Jeff
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I just received the diagnosis that it is time for new rear brake rotors and pads.
Isuzu rotors are over $ 200 each!
Please offer your experiences and decisions on the matter.
OEM Vs Slotted and/or Drilled?
Anyone use R1?
Thanks!
Jeff
I know many VX owners have use the R1 rotors with much success. I'm sure that they will chime in here.
I went with SP Performance drilled and slotted rotors with stock Isuzu pads. I don't remember why I went with SP rotors (just to be different?:_confused), but they have worked well for the past four or five years. I went with the stock Isuzu pads because they tend to last a LOOOOOONG time and create very little dust.
I know drilled and slotted rotors are useless on my VX because I'm never going to rally the truck and push the brakes hard enough, but dang they look cool.
http://www.carid.com/1999-isuzu-vehi...-10730297.html
i dont have these but they look cool - and if you just want basic replacement rotors they shouldnt be more than $50 each at any brake shop or parts store
I put some Brake Labs Power Sport slotted only rotors and ceramic pads on my Rodeo before Moab this year and so far I've been really happy with them. Was only about $220 shipped for a full set from Ebay.
Unfortunately they dont make them for my Volvo so its probably going to get Centric plain or slotted only rotors with Hawk HPS pads. That combination gets really good reviews from the Volvo community.
After a couple of hours of web research... I am thinking of going with R1 Premium Rotors and Hawk HPS pads. I haven't decided between blanks and slotted.
I went with DBA slotted rotors and EBC green pads.
No real need for slotted. They are just a "look, I got slotted rotors bro!" conversation. No real payoff, Other unknowing people will just see them and think you have a mad fast car yo. :p :yesy::bgwb:
R1 says that you get a wee bit more stopping power from slotted and chew up the pads a wee bit quicker.
My intellect says go blank and my emotions are routing for slotted... Film at 11!
I like my drilled and slotted R1 concepts! I replaced my OEM's after they started warping. choice was to either pay $150 to machine the rusted OEM's or $300 for brand new pads and rotors. Ive had the new ones on for almost 2 years and no issues what so ever!
I still have to act on this…
Any opinions on OEM vs Premium?
Jason which did you choose?
I have the R1's, been running them for a few years with no issues. Just got a flyer from them for 17% off site wide if your interested. use prom code SPD2014 Ends March 25th:yesy:Quote:
Originally Posted by fotomaker
I had drilled & slotted on all 4 corners, but I put the Premier OE rotors on the back when my right rear caliper went. I was searching for info & saw all the plusses and minuses, and IMHO it really doesn't matter all that much on a purely street vehicle. The trade offs? Solid rotors = more surface area and stopping. The drilled & slotted = more cooling/water clearing, looks (if you can see them), and cheese graters for your pads. In street/Moab use? I really didn't notice too much difference.
Thanks for the input!
Update...
I replaced all four calipers, rotors and pads with R1 products.
It has been about 16 months and 12K miles.
I was just informed that my rear pads and rotors are shot and need to be replaced.
Nothing was said about the fronts.
Wonderful!
Maybe get a second opinion...seems odd that they would fail in such a short time.
Rockauto has Brembo rear rotors for 12.64 still.
Not unheard of if you have bad lines. Could be you arent getting equal pressure due to this. Check your brake lines from front to rear. I had this happen on my VX many years ago when I first changed rotors and pads. I ended up getting another shop to do a pressure test and they found bad lines. Been fine since. (aside from my calipers taking turns seizing up.... looooove these winter salts!)
I'm surprised to find so little info on replacement brakes on this forum. This subject has to effect all of us.
I have been avoiding the issue by not driving my Dragon but as winter is approaching I have to find a solution.
All I want is a complete brake set that will not degrade from low usage, that look good, I want red calipers, and work well on a VX.
My R1 experience was horrible with two failed calipers.
What brake equipment, especially calipers, do my fellow VX owners recommend.
Thanks!
I am still running on the original factory fitted pads, rotors, and calipers.
Might need to do them in another couple of years.
1997 JDM VX 150k.
PK
Why did your calipers fail? Rebuildable?Quote:
Originally Posted by fotomaker
I'm using R1 rotors with OEM calipers. I recommend drilled/slotted vs smooth after this conversion. It made more of a difference than some feedback (on other cars) would indicate. I'd use R1 again when the rotors fail. IIRC, they have a couple of levels of quality too. Get the better alloy if you're worried about longevity.
The Aging rubber break lines to each of the calipers decrease performance and should be replaced along with the rubber line that connects from above the rear diff to the hard line at the back of the VX. INDY 4X4 HAS a full set of sletainless braided lines that will improve breaking. Brake fluid should also be bled every couple of years to maintain braking performance. The breaks and rotors are only parts of the whole breaking system. The OEM break pads are worth the extra $ because they last much longer, they also stop better than other pads I have used in the VX's I have. Dollars are better spent on high quality break lines, vs. slotted or drilled rotors, as well as high quality calipers as needed. Nothing looks better than stopping short of a an accident or close call that could turn our beloved VX's into scrap.
Just ordered:
R1 Carbon Geomet series OEM Rotors With Hardware Kit
Centric-Pose-Quiet loaded brake calipers
MGP Caliper Covers