When putting it into drive sometimes there is a 1 to 2 second delay before it engages. I'm planning on changing out the fluid and filter but thought I'd post to see whether anyone has advice.
Scott
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When putting it into drive sometimes there is a 1 to 2 second delay before it engages. I'm planning on changing out the fluid and filter but thought I'd post to see whether anyone has advice.
Scott
Is your idle high? That can cause the tranny delay.
If fluid is low it will do that as well.
Idle isn't high but low fluid is my initial suspicion. Just hoping that's all it is!Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverBullet75
Just a friendly reminder to do it right the first time 'cuz you won't get a second chance. Quality fluid, quality filter, follow every direction to the letter and take your time, it's not a race!! Best of luck and let us know the results...:thumbup:
is there a slight bucking when shifting from park?
Went to local tranny shop with Mobil One synthetic ATF and had them change out fluid and filter. Shifting is smooth and no more hesitation. Dodged that potential bullet!
WooHoo!!! Great news indeed.
:yesgray: if you dont mind me asking how much for fluid and filter change? did you have them flush or just change? for the pros: could i do a filter change and fluid change safely at home myself?Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottinMA
Congrats Scott, whether you do it yourself or hire it done, it's the results that matter! To answer your question EC, yes you can do it yourself safely and efficiently. Run the truck up on some stacked 2x10's to gain a little extra clearance at the front and slide underneath for a little personal one-on-one time with your baby. Don't even think about trying it with the crossmember in place, I'm sure it's been done before but what a hassle that must be. When removing the crossmember, be sure to disconnect the wiring harness bracket on the top right side so as to not let the falling crossmember rip the wires out of the oxygen sensor. Remember to support the transfer case with a jack. (A scissor jack works fine as will a floor jack) Follow all other insructions and helpful forum tips and you'll be fine, just take your time and do it right...Best of luck! :thumbup:
Can easily be done at home. Only basic tools needed aalpng with a catch pan. New gasket usually comes with filter. You will also need some sort of fluid pump with a hose...under $10 at harbour frieght. You need to support the tranny/tcase, drop the cross member, remove pan bolts to change the filter (after draining fluid of course). Filter is held in with 2 or 3 bolts. Clean old gasket material off, new gasket, put all back together...don't overtighten pan bolts. Refill fluids per manual....proper proceedure has been posted a ton of times on here.
Have fun!
Scott...you type faster than me! :)
I probably just started a little sooner Billy...:rotate:
ive drained my tranny fluid a few times now and added new fluid just never dropped the pan and replaced the filter but im sure it needs it - i dont think its ever been changed before on this vx - doing it the way i have been only lets me change about 2 - 3 quarts at a time but id like to get as much new fluid in as possible and have a new filter without flushing the system - at 115k miles do you think it would be wise to switch to synthetic or just leave it the was it was?
i know it would be easier to just bring it somewhere but i dont really like other people touching her
DO NOT FLUSH THE TRANSMISSION!!! Doing so seems to lead to problems. I have changed both my VX's to Amsoil Synthetic with no problems, one at 103,000 miles and one at 150,000 miles, but I sure as heck did not flush them! A filter change can only help...
Yes our transmissions are four speeds, what you are most likely sensing is the torque converter locking up at speed, that would be normal...
lol yeah dont worry ive heard nothing but horror stories about high mileage flushesQuote:
Originally Posted by Scott Larson
IMHO, running the tranny through the gears with no fluid in it to push out every last dribble is a really bad idea too. Just drain out what you can and fill her up again.
I brought my own synthetic ATF. Total deal was $150 with new filer. Cross member bar was a bitch to get off.Quote:
Originally Posted by evillecutter
Yeah, those eight bolts holding it to the frame rails can really get rusty above the weldnuts inside the mounting brackets. With no way to get to them in there, heat is your only friend...and possibly a lucky shot of rust release through one of the several holes that allow all that sand and moisture in there in the first place! :_brickwal :smack:
I'm seeing more and more tranny related problems on here; my posts from last year's disaster and my opinion on the General Motor's 4L30E tranny we all have not being suited to our VX's power or 4WD all the time is well known.
Scott in MA, I bet your shop didn't drop your crossmember, with a lift it can be gotten around, else it's a huge risk to take it off for a shop, on mine, I think 6 of 8 bolts broke off making in mandatory to weld into the ports on the ends of the member to access the other side of the remaining bolts and knock them out. What a nitemare. I guess alot of members that have always owned and service their on VX's got to those threads before they rusted/welded themselves together. I never did until tranny failed. I did my filter, gaskets and all when I bought my VX in 2006 w/o thinking about dropping the cross member. Patients and it can be gotten to. I just bet most shops would not.
We should all also install real intercoolers, the factory cooler thats part of the radiator is a joke, it's nothing but a single flow thru conduit on the bottom of the radiator that has no fins. With the VX being 4WD all the time, cooling the liquid for the sake of the hundreds of fine machined and tiny parts inside our tranny's is paramount.
My method of flushing transmission is to let them drip naturally for several days, fluid never stops running out ever after days. I by-passed the radiator altogether, just left it sealed. I hope your problem is fixed but I encourage everyone to occationally call a local tranny shop, do not tell them you have a VX, just say you'd like to know a flat rate re-build price on a GM 4L30E. If that's Greek to them, hang up. If they understand it, maybe stop by and see their shop. The one thing a good tranny shop needs is lots and lots and lots of table stop space. Once your tranny is dis-assembled I bet you could lay it out on a tennis court. Re-build starts with the cleaning and inspection of each part. On mine, even my case had worn points/grooves at certain input points that required a new case, all this was covered as I had been qouted a flat rate price well under $2000.