Over spray error ( How to remove )????

Hi guys, I wasn't sure where to post this so Ill try here. I was enjoying the wonderful weekend we were having here in KY by doing a little house work, well one task I had was to stain my privacy fence I put up last year and I wanted to get a lot done so I used a power sprayer ( works great ). Long story short I got some over spray on my VX as well as my other car. Its like I sat under a old pine tree and sap got all over the place. I rubbed a spot on the window with a rag and with a little effort it came off. Well I guess what I'm wanting to know is if someone knows how I can get it off. I thought I would go to pep boys in a bit to see if I can find something to use to remove the over spray but I trust you guys more than I trust them.


HELP.............................................
:work:

Try Mineral spirits (unscented) . Do not apply in direct sunlight or when the surface is warm. You might have to do a little scrubbing b/f it starts to come off.

good luck amigo.

is it on windows and paint?

you may want to try Meguiars Overspray Clay:

http://www.properautocare.com/megovclay.html


Good luck.

Well I see it to all over the windows but I guess if its on the windows I'm sure its on the paint. It sucks but hey its my own fault I should have moved them farther away. I had heard that the clay works well and I like Meguiars product. I also wanted to try that purple stuff on the cladding so I guess ill do that as well.

Thanks I guess the clay will fix it with a little elbow grease. Its was a lesson learned.
:(

If you can't beat 'em, join 'em

Spray the whole darn thing... and be unique!

Hey Loco,
Just for the record not all PepBoys are bad..;Dy; Atleast not the 1 where I work..;Dy; Like Eclipse siad "Meguiars Overspray Clay" works great it should do the trick.;Dy;

Funny Spike... However I don't think I will be the first with a red cedar stained VX.. lol


TDAWG do they have that overspray Clay at Pep Boys? I called and he said they have the Mothers clay bar but he didn't see any of the Meguiars at all.

??

Quote:

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Originally posted by loco6464
Funny Spike... However I don't think I will be the first with a red cedar stained VX.. lol
??

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Red Cedar? Hmm... that should keep moths off the windshield!

So this was actual 'stain' and not paint ? Eeeek! ;eekr;

Hmmm.. I wonder how that interacts with the paint/clearcoat/wax?

Seriosuly.. best of luck with this project.. and let us know how it goes...

Hopefully you wont have to stain the whole VX.. but if you do, post pics of the red cedar green dragon! ;Db;

I guess I'm off to Pep Boys. I have done a little research and I see that clay bar in general should get it off (speaking of paint). I would think that stain was close to the same thing as paint but who knows. I will look for the Meguiars but if they don't have it Ill get the Mothers.


Ill post later on what I find out. I'm at work till dark so this should be interesting.
:waag:

I thought that stain has more solvents in it to help it penetrate the wood... I could be wrong though...

Curious... Did anything get on the plastic?

I think you are correct about the additives to help penetrate. I only see it on the window and it kinda looks like sap. I'm sure its all over the car and its not visible but I bet if I were to look close I would see it every ware. I used a paint sprayer and a lot of it was air borne. I'm going to pep boys now to see what I can get.

...should help get rid of any surface overspray, however stain has penetration properties :eek: The good news is you can't see anything...yet, but I'd waist no time getting that off if I were you :noo:

I ended up getting the Mothers clay bar and detailer. I guess I will need to wash it before I use the bar so Ill let you know after I wash. I may be able to do this tonight.......

Well if I worked on it for about 99 days I might get the hood done. I used Windex and a razor blade on the windows there clean but I’m at a loss on the paint. I tried mineral spirits on a small spot and it sort of works. I spent over 40 bucks with no luck. Anyone have any ideas? I could have put that 40.00 bucks toward a detail shop and I bet with a little more they would have already had it clean.
Man this bites.
My dumb luck.
:(

I REALLY hate to suggest it... compound and buffing wheel if needed?

taken to a REAL pro of course

Man I wish I could kick my own *****. I thought I would at least have clean windows but........ yes I know we all love to hear about the butt's I found out this morning I have traded my spots for scratches, yes I know I'm a bonified idiot. I'm fed up with this stuff and cant seem to find a way out, so if any of you guys have good advice please feel free to send it my way. Sorry for sounding a little sarcastic but hey I have a 30k VX and a 26k VW with scratches and spots all over them ( lucky me ).


:waab: :waag: :mad:

Ouch!

THAT really sounds painful to look at.

Body/paint shop? Talk to a detailer?

Expensive lesson learned.

I am sure you will figure something out...

Well I called a detail shop and the first one I called said he just did a car that had stain over spray on it and it came out pretty well and he said the light scratches should come out with a little buffing using Pumice or something like that. This will cost me 200 each I guess as long as he gives me his word that he will be able to get them back to the way they should be then its worth it so I don't have to go threw any more aggravation. I swear if I ever get this worked out I will not use the power sprayer again even it takes me a month to do another fence with a brush I am OK with that.


Man I hate this kind of stuff, anything but my cars.... You guys know what I mean.
:confused:

Wow LOCO, sorry to hear about that! :cryp: Nobody likes to hear something like that, let alone have it happen to you! I hope it works out for you :luck:

Hey, let me know the name of the detail shop if you're happy with what they do, I need to get mine buffed to take out the swirls that some jacka$$ put in it.

Loco.. dont be afraid of the powersprayer...

... just park up wind
... and use some sort of backing or shield
... better yet... big plastic bags over the vehicles and anything else you dont want overspray on.

I know that always get nervous when I see fresh stripes being painted on the highway...

Anyway... hope all turns out well.. and she looks better than new.

Quote:

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Originally posted by loco6464
.... the light scratches should come out with a little buffing using Pumice or something like that. This will cost me 200 ....

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Light scratches can be easily healed with Meguiar's Scratch-X or 3M Rubbing Compound. Price ~ $ 5-7 .

Quote:

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Originally posted by Virus-VX
Light scratches can be easily healed with Meguiar's Scratch-X or 3M Rubbing Compound. Price ~ $ 5-7 .

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I hope so they are real light scratches so I kinda figured they would buff or rub out. I have cleaned windows like this in the past and I didn't have this kind of result. I guess its the newer windows or something. I'm dropping the VX off first on Thursday and he said he should have it done on Friday or sat at the latest so Ill post pics if all is well. I really wish I had used common since and protected my vehicles a little better. OH well time heals all wounds I guess I need to get over it and figure out how to remedy the situation.

Thanks Guys.

Quote:

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Originally posted by loco6464
.....I have cleaned windows like this in the past and I didn't have this kind of result. I guess its the newer windows or something. ...

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loco6464,
I'm sorry, I might missed something. Where exactly you have scratches? On your windows or painted area of your vehicle's body? If you scratched your windows than I have to take back my previous suggestion. Meguiar's Scratch-X or 3M Rubbing Compound work only on paint scratches.

bummer they are on the windows...... The detail guy said he thinks he can buff them out and another guy said I could use a pumice compound to rub them out. I think Ill let the detail guy do it since my work latley sucks.

3M Finish Polish (for light scratchs/oxidation) or 3M rubbing compound (for more scratchs/medium oxidation).

Quote:

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Originally posted by Spike
I REALLY hate to suggest it... compound and buffing wheel if needed?

taken to a REAL pro of course

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I agree. A good rubbing compound, some machine buffing, and a good polish afterwards. A lot of work and a lot of time, but on the bright side, you paint will look like new afterwards. A special request for a wetsanding would do even better wonders.

Won't be cheap either. The shop I used to work at, we would charge for a childs left arm to do that.

The shop I'm going to said no more then 200 and he said he would even try to buff the scratches out if he could ( only a few on the VX, a lot worse on my VW ). He said he will buff it off and then wax and afterwards re-seal. I hope that will do it he did give me his word so I guess its worth a shot. I did read that Cerium Oxide (pink) or Jewelers Rouge (red) will remove the scratches by hand so if he has no luck Ill fool with that after. Do you guys think I should have my Isuzu sticker removed at this time or should I fix the task at hand and mess with that another time?


I hope all this goes well I drop it off tomorrow in the am so tomorrow night I should know.

Mike, just my .02, but it will be less expensive to remove the rear decal while they are already buffing it (also they don't have to buff around it and worry about "burning" it. Also you asked if I had any ghosting - none at all, you can't tell that there was ever anything there. If your VX has been garaged, it shouldn't be an issue.

I owned my Proton VX for over 2 years before removing that back sticker and I have absolutely no ghosting or trace of the sticker back there. If you're gonna do it, do it before it's buffed out.

-- John

Well I guess its worth a shot. And as you guys said he is already buffing it out so sounds like 2 birds with one stone kinda deal....

Ill let you know how it turns out.
:)

I dropped it off this morning and the guy didn't seem to be to concerned about the over spray he said it would be as good as new. I didn't tell him to remove the Isuzu from the back because my wife gave me Heck. Any way he said he might be able to buff the cladding lightly to bring out a long lasting shine can any of you guys confirm this? If not I will call to tell him not to, But I am sure he knows his stuff so I guess he will be able to determine if it will work out or not. I should be able to pick it up tonight or in the morning so Ill know soon. After this its on to the VW, its the same as far as being covered by the stain but the windows are 100 times worse. The VX has the scratches to but only here and there.

This will take a bit but with time and money ( neither of which I have at this time of corse ) Ill get threw it.

;puke:

If he tries to buff the cladding, have him try it in an inconspicuous area in case you don't like the look, or if it damages the cladding. I think it would be pretty hard to buff the cladding.

hey Loco6464...

I'm not sure that this is a good idea regarding "buffing out" cladding especially with a power or machine buffer. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the cladding is made out of PP (polypropylene) or HDPE (high-density polyethylene). Both being 'soft plastics'. Either way, I don't think you can buff it out like acrylic or polycarbonate (hard plastics). If anything, the compound or wax they use along with the machine may scratch in swirl marks into the surface. This method is only good for painted clear-coated painted surfaces like on the metal portions of the body not the plastic cladding. Make sure you have them try it in an inconspicuous area, like AREA 51 suggests, to see if there would be any ill-effects. Good luck and let us know the end-results.

I just talked to him and he said it came out 100% like new " No Spots At All" <-- He said. He also said he tried to buff the cladding on the rear under the spare tire where it curves under and he said it wouldn't work but he said he tried a slow speed with a wool pad to test. But at least it should be back to the way it was ( I hope ) I pick it up tonight if I have time after work or Ill get it in the morning on my way to work. I wish I could of had him pull the rear Isuzu off but my wife is a little ticked at the fact I had to shell out 350 for a stupid mistake on my part so I let it go for now..... Notice I did say for now;Db;

Well I hope it looks as good as he said. Ill let everyone know tomorrow.

:coolg:

Man it looks better than I ever remember. He was able to get everything off and then some. Its nice to have the new VX back. Now I hope he can work his magic on the VW.


:)
Thanks everyone for all your help.

loco6464, glad to hear it all turned out ok.

Loco6464 - who did the detail for you (name of shop)? I need to get mine done to remove some swirls.

Classic Auto Detail...

This guy does outstanding work, I am a very picky guy and let me tell you he not only brought my VX back to life but its better looking that I have ever seen. He is a magician. Tell him that Mike with the other VX told you to call (451-5051 ). Good stuff you will not be disappointed, I know I wasn't. I do know that black is hard as heck to keep clean though...


You have any luck with your pics yet? I wish I would have been able to get my Isuzu removed but as mad as my wife is I figured it be better to wait.

:(

Thanks Mike, I'll give him a call. I haven't messed with trying to post pictures yet, my new guage fronts are supposed to be here on the 13th, so I figured once I got those installed, I take pictures of them and the other mods I've done and then figure out how to post them - I'll PM if I have trouble, maybe you can help!

I'm sorry I didn't check this posting sooner, and I really don't know if this would have been any help, but when it comes to pine sap - and I know you said it was overspray that only 'looked' like pine sap - I use RainX. RainX dissolves pine sap on contact. I couldn't help wondering if it would have taken off the overspray as well. I use RainX on the paint as well as the glass and cladding, then wipe thoroughly afterwards...for pine sap.