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Hello
I need help or info about the OBD :confused:.I replaced the battery and forget to save the car memory, all the OBD Data lost and inspection fails
The mechanic told me run the car about 100 miles test again. When I test again I ready run on 200 miles for the second test and still fails. :mado:(OBD not READY) I just want to know any had this problem before and how many miles I need before go to the third?
Best Regards,
I just went though the same thing! Only I had the use of the scanner, so I didn't even go back until I got my readiness all set. Most codes came back OK with in 20-30 miles. However, EVAP system took FOREVER!!! It had to go around 300 before it finally was ready!
OBD2 is looking for "events", I suspect that for EVAP it wants you to gas up at least once and then keep the pressure.
You might also need a nice long run at a constant speed. I recall reading the code on one of those tests and the list of preconditions was crazy. The engine had to be warm, the load had to be at a certain value and not changing, etc, etc, etc... Then, if something changed while it was testing it would cancel the test and wait for conditions to improve again!
Thank You mdwyer and Leon R for the info.I will try 500 miles before go to other test
these are sometimes based on number of starts too. I typically tell people drive it for 2 weeks and bring it back in.
Thanks etlsport I already drive more than two weeks and now 500 miles on ... still fail the test . I will go for a least 1000 miles for the fouth test :mad:
It needs some highway speeds mixed in with your driving. And some tests are run after you are below 1/2 tank of gas.
Thanks bearandbee ...I already try full tank ,half tank and almost empty also my speeds is between 50 - 65 ... now I thinks I will wait for 1000 miles to take the other test :(
Hi any one can help me get more information about the OBD not ready and Fails the inspection...This time I go to the mechanic with 800 miles and scan the OBD .and the mechanic say is ready for the test ,unfortunately still fails and come out OBD NOT READY?????:mad: The question is my car computer in not work or something else problem??? If The computer problem ...can
I just switch the computer ( but some mechanic say the on OBD must be work with the dealer only ? because each OBD had special code for each car??:confused:
I would try a different mechanic just for a second opinion. And that's BS about the dealers being the only ones who can switch computers, it's just a matter of pulling the plug on the old and plugging a new one in.
Thank You vt_Maverick ..,now I already drive 994 miles and I think I will adds 600 miles before go to other inspection ,because each time fails I had 30 days for fixing the problem if fails again I think I will buy the use OBD but the question is when the scaner say the ODB cannot find any error code ,Is that means the ODB is ready to inspection or need to find other kind scaner for the state inspection test?
If the scanner says no codes found then you should be good to go for inspection I would think.
Other than the actual codes, there is "readiness status" which assures that ECU had plenty of opportunities to check the car (and come up with the codes, if needed). Otherwise, people would just reset the codes and quickly take their car to the inspection section, thus avoiding real diagnostics.
It is possible that your ECU keeps getting reset. How is your battery? Any other electrical oddities?
I'd beg/borrow/steal a scan guage to hook up to the VX. Not that it's going to find any codes or be able to re-set the the computer, it's just sounding like your computer may be having a problem. If the scan guage can not connect to the computer then you know you're having issues with the computer. If the scan guage is connecting, then I'd be wondering if the inspection station is having problems with their equipment.
Also, you should be able to have the inspection station test for readiness to test BEFORE they commit to the inspection. Failing an inspection and being 'not ready' are 2 entirely different things.
However, having said all of that, I'm not required to pass emissions in the county I live in. So take all of this as speculation.
A lot of people think of the OBDII connector as being a 'magic port' and that any readings are to be taken without question. I've found that the error codes read from the OBDII are for general guidance only and do not necessarily point you to the specific (or even correct) item to replace. For instance, I have a recurring P0421 code being thrown on my Eclipse. Some people sink hundreds of dollars on replacing O2 sensors & catalytic converters to fix the problem. It works for some & not for others. I just reset the 'puter & keep driving. Also interesting, about 1/2 the time when I connect the scan guage on the Eclipse, it turns off my speedo (but not on the VX or on the RV (go figure)).
Im glad we dont have inspections here in Oregon.....
Thanks tom4bre and Leon R for the info and actually The car fails the emission ( the OBD not ready )and the safety was pass now I had 450 miles to go for my next test and go to other station ...and the inspection station computer are connect to the DMV Data base ..I only need to get the OBD work ...by the way LEON R mention about the ECU . What is this about and what different between OBD?
MY battery is new and only the radio had a problem the sometime had sound sometime no sound when to go the bump the sound will on and off..
ECU (Electronic Control Unit) is another name for the Vehicle's computer.
OBD II (second generation of the On Board Diagnostics) is just a communication port to the ECU. It works much like the USB on your home computer.
Good luck with the next test.
I'm going to sound off on this because I had all kinds of codes popping up after I changed the battery. I had to clean both the positive and negative post clamps INSIDE and OUT so there was no corrossion left inside and wire brush those terminals till you see shiny metal. Install battery and viola all those nasty codes went away. Every time I hear battery replacement and electrical problems I go after the battery as it was the last thing I mucked with before my dashboard went wonky! Good luck!!
Thanks EVO The problem is the OBD don't have any error code pop up and just OBD not Ready !!!! I still wait for 1600 miles (390 miles to go) to take another inspection .
That sure sounds (no pun intended ;)) like some sort of an oddity... That could be caused by a fault in the radio or by radio electrical feed. Can some one with radio knowledge chime in with this info?Quote:
Originally Posted by DLNTHO
My theory that your ECU feed is also faulty and your ECU gets reset intermittently. Then, EVAP gets triggered during the test, because it takes the longest to get readiness reading.
Thanks Leon R ... I will try to remove the radio and keep driving until 1600 miles for my next inspection.
I doubt that radio is causing the problem, but it could be showing you that something is not well with the electrical system. Are you by any chance loosing your radio station presets?
in Ontario we have same readyness test now. check this sitedrive clean might help.
Hi LEON R .....I actually did not remove the radio only rewiring the radio ...now the radio had no problem ....see what happen for my next inspection.
Thanks Dmitrikr for the site .I will try on it ...in past 13 years I never had this problem before even I change my last battery ???
Hi.. Is any one had any more idea ???? Today I go to inspection and fail again..before I go to inspection I was ask the shop to run the OBD and say not problem and no code come up and still come up OBD not Ready........
(ODB monitor readiness status:)
catalyst(G)/NMHC catalyst(D): not ready
Evaporative system (G)/UNSUPPORTED(D): not ready
O2 sensor(G)/Exhaust Gas Sensor (D): not ready
O2 sensor Heater (G)/ PM Filter (D): not ready
EGR/VVT(G,D): not ready
(G= gasoline; D= diesel)
The shop say may be the computer problem because when I change the battery and messes up the computer ??? or I just disconnect the battery again and drive more more miles ????
If your battery is weak (even if it is new), the voltage drop during cranking could be resetting your computer every time you start the car. Check your voltage before, during and after cranking.
Also, ECU usually has a constant 12V supply to keep the memory. (That is in addition to ignition switched 12V). If that source has gone bad. Your will reset the computer EVERY time you shut it off.
What Leon said.
Go to an auto parts store and have them do a starting/charging system check with their VAT-40 or whatever it is they are using for the tests.
It's cheap (free) and very easy (the parts guy will do it for you).
Good luck
Thanks LEON R and SinJin ...I already go to AutoZone and test the starting/charging system check with their VAT-40 and everything pass nothing wrong??? The clerk say may be your computer had problem!!! In this case if any way possible use any thing to check the ECU??? Or had any more idea I can try before I need to replace the ECU...
Any one changes the ECU before??? And If I need to change the ECU ...did I need to re-program or just plug and play????
And any one had well but use ECU (for 1999 VX)for sale and how much??? ... In case I need one
Thanks
I have one. I replaced mine with the Trooper one when I did the tranny swap. They should be plug and play.
Thanks bartmanS4 and where u brought (which years)and how much ??
It is from my 99 VX was working fine when I swapped it out. I think they usually go for around $100. How about $50 including shipping?
Scott
Hi and Thanks Scott
Still need some answer before buy your ECU...I need play safe before I discount the battery and I don't want take another readiness test again (this is my six test for my VX) and I don't want drive another 1600 miles....
1.When you swapped out the Trooper ECU by yourself or by Auto shop to your VX and did u re-program the ECU?
2.Did your state have the readiness test for your car? (Some state don't have the test ...even the owner doesn't know the ECU are not working)
3.Or any one had knowledge about the ECU in VX or need to re-programming (I can't find and answer in the web most the website who sell the ECU and say need to re-programming????)
Thank You
1. I did the work myself. I just plugged it in and everything was happy. This was in conjunction with my 5 spd swap since the manual and automatic ECU's are different.Quote:
Originally Posted by DLNTHO
2. I don't think there is any readiness testing. I found this on the website:
http://aircarecolorado.com/index.php...-engine-light/
3. I don't see why they would need to be reprogrammed. The equipment is the same. The one thing I have found as an issue though is my fuel gauge doesn't read correctly. It stays at full for a long time and is empty around the quarter full mark. I think I will need to take it to a honda dealer to fix this.
4. Your welcome
I don't get how your ECU is 'Not Ready'. What happens when you plug in a code reader? Do you have CEL on? Do all the warning lights light up when you start the car? Mine had some residual codes that I reset with the code reader and then was good to go.
I can send you the ECU and if it works you can buy it, if not just send it back and pay me back for the shipping.
Scott
Hi Scott and Thank You Very much for the offer of the ECU .I will send my address to your mail box.
1. Thank You for the answer.
2.When the Auto shop plug in the code reader and nothing come out (no error code).They say ready to go for but still fail....
3.All the warning lights light up when I start the car.
Best Regards,