They are BIG, no... ENORMOUS, no....HUMONGOUS.
Like a couple of telephone poles with fully adjustable/greasable ends...
....the size of my fists.
Happy V'Day to me :dance:
Jo
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They are BIG, no... ENORMOUS, no....HUMONGOUS.
Like a couple of telephone poles with fully adjustable/greasable ends...
....the size of my fists.
Happy V'Day to me :dance:
Jo
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
Thats what she said! :)
B U R L Y---D U D E . . .:dance:Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
GRATS...:thumbup:
Yup Dub...
They are indeed.....
BUILT LIKE AN APOCALYPTIC $.HIT HOUSE
I'm guessing even I will have a hard time twisting these puppies...
...but, despite easing back a tad on MOAB now....
.....I'll bet'ya I'll try!
Jo.....doing this >>> :dan_ban:
Dude. :thumbup:
The next time I see you... I will steal them off your VX. :p
Also,
I used bigger text because I wanted to fit in.
Funny thing is...Dub said the same...
...and I let him know about;_Quote:
Originally Posted by VXorado
(A) Billy's..take his please!
and
(B) My Anti Zombie, stealth VX component filtchers detection unit...
Yea..he said ..WOT???... too :)
Just try it..and yer back door will be on MY ride.
ERRMERGERD YERHERV BIN WERNED...or whatever that annoying F/B chick says!
Jo
Seriously, I need to invest in an HD link set soon. I noticed my original set are in pretty rough shape... hopefully they can make it though another summer season because they're not very high on my purchase list.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
You can steal mine 'rado. Then once you install them I will just sreal your whole VX...saves me from having to reinstall them :)
You can always just sleeve your oem links to strengthen them.
Welcome to the club. You will love them.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
I've thought about reinforcing the OEM links but the HD links are overall a better choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
Stronger, Adjustable, New Bushings = :thumbup:
I agree 100%...just figured it was the next best option until you can buy a set.
Are these bigger link for the sway bar? My mechanic said that i might need bigger link for my sway bar because of the lift that i put on my VX? Um i only put the 2.5 OME lift on it, he suggested that i get bigger links if available because I have been hearing like a popping noise sometime when i turn. any suggestions?
Popping noise while turning could be a CV joint going out.
No these have nothing to do with your sway bars. With a 2.5in lift you sgould be okay. Lots if VXs lifted that much with no sway bar issues. These links replace the links on the rear suspension (the black bars that run horizontal from your frame to the axle housing).
okay cool thanks... i tried to tell my mechanic that but he said that would be making a sound if it was my ball joint. I didnt ague, i just said okay lol but i wont be going there again. I'm just going to go to Midas next and see what they say...
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitebreadx
Think about it. Whats moving when you turn? Front wheels? Then problem must be there. Lower links have to do with the rear and if they arent making the noise when going straight then they arent going to make these noise when turning. Sorry just my 2 cents.
Just think of whats changing before to isolate your problems. Also I agree I would find a new mechanic.
OK...FWIW...:_wrench:..:rolleyesgQuote:
Originally Posted by Dumke
I have some doubts about finding an actual "mechanic" within 100 meters of a Midas shop...sorry...:flower:
Most big box places aren't allowed to think outside tha box...if it's not on the drop down menu, it can't be done.
If I'm wrong on this, it's an exception, & lucky you...:thumbup:
PM some VX'rs from your area for a "mom & pop shop" that might actually have a clue...:yesgray:
I figure with 2" I get the best of both worlds!!:)
And yes.....that is what she said, I just had to beat Tom, or Ldub or some other perv to it.
Actually, thats NOT what she said :)
Well to be honest i have been to quit a few shade tree mechanic places in my area (your so called MOM and POP shops) and they all charge me a bunch of cash just for my VX to remain in the same state that its been. I say Midas because they seem to have a great satisfaction guaranteed. ha
there really isn't any other VXr's in my area, at least that i know of.
I am not sure what other VXs in your area means. There is nothing special about the VX. Look for an import shop. If they have worked on Troopers, they can work on a VX being as they are pretty much exactly the same minus the cosmetics stuff. Better yet, take a look at the shop manual and tinker around yourself. You would be surprised how many things you can do on your own with some patience and courage! You can always come on here for help.
Ummmmm..."other VX'rs in your area" means: seek recommendations from other people (VX'rs) in the area, for a shop of known competence...:_wrench:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
I'll try to type slower in tha future...:yesgray:
I interpreted in the idea that he could not find a mechanic that could work on a VX. I would guess he would have more luck if he jumped over to the Planet and checked to see if anyone in his area had some recommendations. Only a few dozen active VX folks on here, lots and lots on the Planet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
As for typing slower, if you could use pictures, that would be easier for me:)
Santa came today in a big brown truck. He wasn't kidding about the links. The ball joints are literally the size of a fist and the tube diameter is twice the oem dimensions. I would guess just one of these weighs as much as both the originals put together. Will try to get them on this weekend and then head over to firestone to get my lifetime alignment. Haven't done it since the torsion bar install, and my tires are cambered way out.
The only other Vehicross owners I see on the planet are you, Bart, Jo, Stef & yellowgizmo.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Unless I missing something?
*sigh*...once again, lost in translation. :) In reference to the fact that all 3.5L isuzus are the same, there are tons of actiive members on the planet that may be in his area that can direct him to a good mechanic, or maybe even help him out in the garage.
Yeah I figured and was mostly just giving you a hard time. :_beer:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
Best way to install the links? I was thinking tie a ratchet strap around the axle and anchor somewhere forward. Remove one side, set the length of the new bar close to the OEM. Install, then do the other side. Lift the rear of the truck, adjust links to push rear axle back to reduce rake. Not sure how much play the upper link has and have to watch the pinion angle as well. Should have plenty of room to push the axle back a few inches and keep the driveshaft happy.
Any thoughts?
I just try to firmly chock and e-brake the tires so they can't move when the old link is removed.
These may be on my list in the not too distant future ... after the torsion bars though. The HD tie rods the Indy offers are designed by 'Max Headroom' too. The alignment guy thanked me for putting them on ... said they made his job easier (not sure why ... more adjustment I think).
That ol' boy Marlin don't usually cott'n to no wheel chocks...:smilewinkQuote:
Originally Posted by BigSwede
I basically did just what 'Swede sujested.
I believe mine are 1" longer than stock now, but anything more than 3/4" longer and you will start to see the teeth of the driveshaft spline start coming out if the rubber cover. That is why I had my driveshaft lengthen about 1", now the teeth of the spline on driveshaft are not showing anymore. Depends on how much lift you have to match the pinion angle at the transfer case. Easiest way is to measure exactly the length from pinion joint to pinion joint on the transfer case top pinion to diff top pinion, and transfer case pinion bottom to diff pinion bottom.
Good info, I got my new trailer today, so I have been working on that for the last 4 hours.
It is a Lifetime Sahara tent trailer. I will start a new thread on that later.
I wonder if there is a rhyme and reason to the kink in the lower links? My wife's are perfectly straight.
Although mine has a huge bend in it, the other side still has a kink at the same point where mine bent even more? Hmmm, I would have to crawl under my troopers to look. Too bad the junkyard is 40 miles from here.
Anyway, hopefully I can finish the trailer tomorrow, at least the assembly, and get the links on friday or sat. Still have to figure out how to straighten the bottom tab on one of the perches, it is in the way of removing/installing the links. Not much room to hammer in there, and I doubt a punch will help much. We will see.
As for wheel chocks, I even chocked the trailer axle while I was putting it on:)
Try heating it up to red with a torch...then bend it with a BIG crescent wrench...:_wrench:Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
I'm sure the kink was intended to provide a small increase in ground clearance along the link, but I have to think the kink also makes it more vulnerable to pretzelizing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
And in any case, some Troopers have the kinked links from the factory (as did all three of my Troopers 93, 95, and 99), but some have straight links.
Alright! Nothing more gratifying than doing something new on your own.
I managed to get the worst one off the truck today. Some prying, a 1.5ton breaker bar (I like to use my jack on the breaker bar, I am out of harms way and can control the force far more consistently) It actually wasn't as bad as I thought. The perch is long enough that it has some flex to it, so I popped a cold steel chisel in the gap and pried it enough to get a real pry bar and the rear link popped out. There was no tension on the links, I was waiting for a pop or something when I punched the bolt out. Notta. Some flashbacks to the whole driveshaft thing. I overcame that and got the new link in. About 1.2 hours to do one side start to finish, not bad at all.
I did say "Damn You Matt!" at one point. Lifting the new link in place, got the bolt through the ball joint and wouldn't you know it, different size bolt than the OEM. I crawled out from under the truck, correct size socket and wrench in hand, and damn it all, the nut is a different size than the bolt head. Another trip from under the truck to get the right wrench. Managed to get both in with minimal issues. They are well machined, I can adjust the rake by hand just by loosening the locking nuts and turning the tube. No wrench needed except to lock the nuts in final position after adjustment. Tomorrow will do the other side and take it into Firestone for lifetime alignment, just got a 25 dollar off coupon and they do military discount too.:)
Here are a few pics of the links side by side:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...161725_995.jpg
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...161813_110.jpg
The bend in that link is way more than the bend in the other side. I think that is the culprit in my popping sound when I first turn the truck each day.
There is no mount on the new tube for the ebrake cable, but I am not concerned, that line is pretty stiff and now it is well protected by that monster tube of a link.
Nice!!
I sprayed mine ..and they are sitting ready to be done.
Hope mine goes as well as yours..and I'll keep the sockets sizes in mind :thumbup:
Jo
I probably should have painted mine red to match the torsion bars an axle, but I figured, I am gonna scratch it all up anyway:)Quote:
Originally Posted by JoFotoz
Do tell: how was this lesson learned???Quote:
Originally Posted by Marlin
:slap:
I know, I know - you coulda gone all day without hearing THAT reference again!
I think I laid under the truck for 5 minutes with a punch and the same hammer in my hand staring at the layout. I Nuked it out best I could. The rear axle is connected to the truck at 3 points, the two lowers and the center upper. By removing one side of the triangle, there was no way it could go anywhere, and if the link was under load, it could only go down, so tapping the bolt out from the other side, I convinced myself it was safe...:smilewinkQuote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren