Line-X/Cladding Question

Those of you who have had your cladding Line-X'd or Duraliner'd or whatever product, what is the thickness of the liner and did you just have it done to prevent scratches?

This is gonna happen soon, but not sure of what product and how i want it done. I want more than just for protecting scratches, although that is a big plus.

Also, when it was done, how did you deal with the cladding screws? mask them off, plug them?



Edit: Saw Duraliner in Checker today, thats the roll on/paint on bedliner. looks to be about 1mm thick but it has little rubberized chips/flecks/nubbs mixed with it. I assume to give better traction in the bed of a truck.

Has anyone used this product on a truck bed? Thinking of using this on cladding, as i have yet to see the Line-X product. Cant get a hold of the local shop here, not answering the phone

I looked into this and my local line-x shop said they wouldn't do it unless I had a way to prime it. They said they didn't think it would adhere for a long period of time with the material the cladding is made out of. Other then that, it looked to be about 1/16 thick. One thing you should really consider is taking all your cladding off completely and letting them do it in seperate pieces that way you can actually take a piece off at a later time if you have to. It also seems to be alittle cheaper if you do this. They quoted me $350 if I took it off and $450 if I left it on. I'm still considering this mod because it would prevent me from having to always clean and shine the cladding.

Mine was the first VX that had Line X applied. 1/16th of inch sounds about right for thickness. Cladding was not primed- Screws were masked. Cost was about $420 as I recall.
One of the best mods I ever had done- No maintenance- Tough as hell- does not peel or separate -takes tremendous abuse when Rock Crawling.
I suggest you do your hood insert at the same time- You will never encounter the cracking problem that so many others have.
Dragon Bob;Db;

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Originally posted by Green Dragon
You will never encounter the cracking problem that so many others have.
Dragon Bob;Db;

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He may... it's the plastic that the insert is made out of that is the fragile part, correct? Even if LineX was applied to the top, the screws are still tightened from the bottom, thereby still forcing the plastic to buckle from underneath, correct?

LineX may make the insert a bit more solid, and may look better matching the rest of the cladding, but I would still watch how tight you tighten those bolts!

Thanks, still gonna look into it, the Line-X will be what i use if i have it professionally done, but want to look into doing it myself first, what options i have there and how the products hold up

the line x can be applied however thick you want it and however smooth they can get it. I had mine redone cause i wanted it to be a little stronger. I took my screws off and painted them the color of the car when the line x was being applied.
adam

I forgot , i have a small sample of the line x if you need it, just send me you address and ill mail it out if you want.

adam

Yeah, the local shop here actually makes little line-x cutouts that act as their business card. Makes passing out a sample material alot easier.

Z, thanks, Email on the way

Just idly speculating, but do you guys who have had lineX applied think it could be used to mount something small and relatively flat onto the cladding if applied at the same time as the LineX was? Maybe like a quarter or a reflector strip or something of that nature? Also, can you make an impression in the LineX that will last? Like pressing the ISUZU off the front grill into the lineX when applied would that leave a permanent indentation in the lineX?

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Originally posted by Dallas4u
He may... it's the plastic that the insert is made out of that is the fragile part, correct? Even if LineX was applied to the top, the screws are still tightened from the bottom, thereby still forcing the plastic to buckle from underneath, correct?

LineX may make the insert a bit more solid, and may look better matching the rest of the cladding, but I would still watch how tight you tighten those bolts!

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OK I give up for not stating the OBVIOUS, I suppose somebody could crack the insert (still wouldn't be seen). Would that individual please have LINE X sprayed on both sides & tighten the fasteners with a Torque wrench.:confused:

Dragon Bob

Wyrrej, in theary yes. The line-x would form to any object you impressed in it as long as it had a chance to dry. You can kind of see this in the companies business card, the back side is very smooth and kept impressions from the material it was placed on. I'm not sure how easily it would be to remove the item unless you used somthing that the line-x didn't adhere to. Otherwise it would just come off onto that object. You could cover items up (ie: lay a quarter down on the cladding spray it let it dry completely and you'd have a quarter stuck in there and the shaped circle showing through), although I wouldn't know how long it would actually last without chipping or coming off. And there is the fact that you couldn't get the quarter back, but thats beside the point :)

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Originally posted by Green Dragon
OK I give up for not stating the OBVIOUS, I suppose somebody could crack the insert (still wouldn't be seen). Would that individual please have LINE X sprayed on both sides & tighten the fasteners with a Torque wrench.:confused:

Dragon Bob

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Wowwy wow wow wow... sorry Bob. Didn't mean to upset you. Just trying to make sure people knew the LineX wasn't a miracle worker.

Besides, after taking mine off and trying to be careful putting it back on, I cracked my hood insert... it isn't hard to do at all.

Line x aint like paint it will never chip, think of it like if you melt plastic and spray it like a paint, thats what line x is like. Also as far as it drying, it takes about 1 second to dry (and yes i did say second)

adam

zadam123, k cause when I talked to the shop here, they said that if it doesn't adhere properly then it can actually start to chip off on the edges. (ie: the corners of our cladding) Thats why they said I would have to figure out a good way to prime it. As for timing, I wasn't to sure because they said I'd have to wait a few hours once it was done before putting the cladding back on to give it time to set and dry. Maybe they are being overly cautious or somthing.

DragonBob, did you end up priming your cladding in any way? Or did they just spray it right on with no real prep-work?

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Originally posted by omegavx

DragonBob, did you end up priming your cladding in any way? Or did they just spray it right on with no real prep-work?

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Not primed but might have been lightly sanded as I wasn't there
when it was done. No adhesion problems anywhere and I have punched a hole right thru the cladding and ripped both rear portions off as well as put a soccer ball sized dimple in the rear and jacked it out with a floor jack without peeling, cracking etc.
Dragon Bob;Db;

the cladding will never crack or chip but it may peal, mine did and it was primed, the guy did redo it for free and told me it shouldnt happen again and if it did to just crazy glue it back on. It would difinataly work cause its plastic to plastic pretty much.

buy the way its been almost a year and no problems and a bobcat hit me nothing.

adam

Ok, so it sounds like maybe sanding is the way to go but not priming. If dragon bob didn't prime and it hasn't peeled and adam did and it did peel (alittle) maybe its best not to prime at all.

Hi,
Can anyone recomend a good product for the side cladding, I have tried many products here in the U.K. and find that after 4 or 5 days it is dull and streaky.

David,
We have a product here made by a company called black magic... it is a plastic protector and works really good. I believe you should be able to find something via Google. Email if you have any other questions
cheers
Dylan