Anyone know what comparable part can substitute for our OME window regulator?
Peace.
Tom
Printable View
Anyone know what comparable part can substitute for our OME window regulator?
Peace.
Tom
I'll be watching this thread. :)
I need a replacement for the driver's side. Actually may need the vertical guide. The white bushings on mine are worn & wobbly which keeps me from getting the window positioned just right to prevent wind noise.
Tom,
I just replaced my drivers side regulator with the one from vt_mav's old Foxfire. I noticed that those plastic guides were damaged on my old one. I'm going to see if I can come up with a kit to upgrade those. I'll keep you posted.
As you've seen in the past though - don't hold your breath waiting on me. If you source a replacement ... go for it.
Tom
VXorado and I found a workable one in some other Isuzu in the junkyard, but it took a looooong time. There are quite a few of them out there, and it seems most of them are wrong. Sadly, I didn't pay any attention whatsoever to what machine I finally ended up taking the parts from. Jon might remember.
For what it is worth, the plastic on all of them was brittle if not already broken. Still, it seems to be okay if the block part is broken so long as the clip is still there to hold onto the rail. Note that the SBC window fix MIGHT cause that clip to fail quicker if the bracket is hitting the top of the track and pushing the trolley off the rail.
Man, where is Ldub or Sue on this subject? I know they have the answer.
Peace.
Tom
Tom, I think Sue is selling a window regulator in another thread. Maybe shoot her a PM because I can't find the thread right now.
Got it: http://www.vehicross.info/forums/sho...threadid=22903
Thanks Mark! Doing it right now.
Peace.
Tom
Has anyone come up with a replacement for the plastic clip that attaches the window to the regulator? Isuzu tells me that it only comes as part of the window. Amazing. The window is fine... just need the 2-cent piece of plastic that is glued to the window and bolts to the regulator.
What happened to the guy that was making the metal replacements...can't think of the name off the top of my head....
Bart
PS - On the regulator, do Trooper or Rodeo regulators work?
One of our next projects is too replace both side with an aftermarket kit. I replaces the center rail, guides, and moter. all metal components. Unit is designed for a curved glass.
I made new window clips out of metal...couple years ago.
Isuzu didn't use this window regulator in any other vehicle.... I don't know about the Axium though
BTW...From what I can see/tell, the regulators are the problem. If the regulators weren't plastic, I don't believe those plastic window clips would receive the lateral play necessary to break them.
Having another regulator would be the best option IMO.
I haven't taken off my door panel to actually look at the window regulator, but I have bought the VX window clips from streetboutiquecustoms.com. Will those solve the problem or just help it a bit.
Peace.
Tom
Here's a possibility....
http://www.kmjent.com/cart/flat-glas...rsion-kit.html
I am planning on doing a kit like this one.... however this one says it's a flat glass kit. The one that I had planned on using was a universal curved glass kit. I would have to get the part # and supplier from the shop in the next couple days.
but it was basicly the same thing.... replacing our faulty cable & plastic guides with a metal center track and metal gears.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoVX
Tim Parker of StreetBoutiqueCustoms.comQuote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
Makes the metal brackets toreplace the small white plastic ones that attach to the glass.
I happen to live in his vicinity so I had him install them in my truck, there's pics in my gallery of him doing it and shows what they look like.
MANY of us have bought thee from Tim, and it almost always (but not all) solves the window binding problem. Charges about $65 for a set of 2.
Also makes Metal replacement knobs for the 4 plastic knobs on the spare tire cover.
There's a Passenger side Regulator on ebay for $49 (it's listed as a lock actuator...but that's apparently wrong..the pic is of a regulator)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...#ht_1318wt_653
For reference:
Here's pics of both Driver and Passenger Regulator. One laying on bubble wrap is brand new Passenger side, other one is Driver side - used, and still has the window motor attached.
ON pic #2, it appears the white plastic pulley type thing in one of the corners on the used one has partially broken off....yet it appears it still functions that way???
DRIVER -USED
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2239.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2240.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2241.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2244.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...DSCN2247-1.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2257.jpg
PASSENGER - NEW
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2243.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2255.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2256.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN2251.jpg
Ok, from my junkyard experiences:
The motors are interchangeable. I took the motor out of a trooper and swapped into our regulator.
You can get an entire new assembly from isuzuparts for 100 bucks shipped to your door in <5 days.
I did the tab upgrade from Tim. Worked awesome on driver's side, until my cable broke and eh on the passenger side. Better than it was, but even with the glass moved as far back as I can get it, still wants to rock forward if I roll all the way down. The plastic guide on the center rail is just too worn.
Consensus, the plastic guide on the center rail is the problem, as well as the fact that the center rail curve does not match the curve the window must travel, poor engineering.
I just replaced the regulator and the clips that i used were an assortment pack for GM models that I got at Autozone. The smaller of the set fit the window and the stock bolts fit perfect glued on with 3M windshield poly. That was over 6 months ago and they are like brand new. I can get the part number for the clips next time I'm at Autozone if that helps.
I am looking to replace the motor (at it just clicks, when I actuate it by itself). Advance autoparts lists several part numbers for Vehicross, ranging from $24+ core to $134+core! That is quite a range! Has anyone tried their motors?
Another observation, replacement motors for driver's and passenger sides appear to be different, is this really true? If so, what is the difference?
I was gonna say....most of the pieces/parts are GM. Those plastic clips are used in all sorts of Saturn, Chevy, and Pontiac mmidsized cars. Regulators too. Take your parts to a bigger Chevy stealership....they'll match about all of it. Isuzu still has them too, I'm sure
My DS window was totally STUCK! I removed the Motor/Actuator and it was stuck. Even the window itself was stuck in its rails!
My motor/actuator assembly looked very nice on the outside:
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...876EC5333A.jpg
However, taking apart the motor told a very different story!
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...87D2139001.jpg
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...87DE664660.jpg
It almost looks like at one point, it was partially full of water!
It appears that the rest of my mechanism is just fine, but I do need a new motor! I do not feel like getting another good looking, but ruined on the inside, used motor. What is the best "new/remanufactured" option?
EDIT: I ended up ordering "Cardone Remanufactured Window Lift Motor Part No: 47-4308" from Advance Autoparts. It was $132 - 20% discount. I will let everyone know how it works out.
Sue,
I installed the passenger side window regulator. I'm waiting a couple of days for the glue to set up in this cold weather before I try it out. In the meantime, do you have any leads on a driver's side window regulator?
Thanks.
Tom
Maybe check with the several owners parting out a truck now…Quote:
Originally Posted by tomdietrying
Look on ebay for a seller selling any VX part and contact them to see if they might also have the regulator.
A new regulator is about $95 from Merlin, and they're available.
Cardone motor looks like a perfect match! I did have to cut and splice the original connector (replacement motor came with a pigtail and a pair of vampire clips for splicing... naturally, I saldered it instead...).
I was also able to determine why it was so rusty on the inside! New motor came with "u-shaped" vent tube. The vent hole points to the top and this vent tube prevent water from entering the motor. Needless to say, my old motor didn't have that tube! So it must have been filling up with water at every rain! Make sure you do not loose this tube (as it is easy to remove without noticing it!).
Two motors side by side (with and without the tube).
http://i973.photobucket.com/albums/a...3E4F62BB5D.jpg
Now I have a working window with what appears to be a very worn regulator :(. I do not wan to bother with another used one, so what are the best new options? I see that Merlin has them for around $95, but what about aftermarket peplacements?
I just ordered a regulator for my passenger side from Merlins place. He was on vacation but Dennis helped me. It was a back order but it's on its way now. It took 10 days. It was only $90 I believe with no taxes and free shipping. My local dealer wanted almost $200. Kat had informed me about the aftermarket fix but I opted for the easy way now option... I want to tint the windows and need it fixed now. I plan to do it right this summer when it isn't so friggin cold out and I can do it myself.
OH JOY! So today I took my VX to my mechanic to install the new regulator. (As much as I wanted to do this myself, my lack of free time is minimal) It's installed BUT it's binding in the front. The rubber guide is split and he says that is causing it to bind...He said that's what broke the regulator and has instructed me to buy that and he will put it in. I see it really is split, but wondering if this really is my issue. I read a few of the posts (thanks Kat for putting the links all together) and I see there are other reasons it could be doing this. Anyone replace this rubber guide thingamadoobie with success on correcting the binding issue?
I'm not sure exactly what you mean by the rubber guide is "split"…:_thinking. Are you talking about the rubber strip the edge of the the glass goes into?Quote:
Originally Posted by Allison3371
If it's that one, it goes around the glass edge, then down IN FRONT of the tweeter panel, where I'm pointing.
This is the rubber channel we suggest be kept lubed with something like pure silicone spray, or Teflon silicone. It has several channels within it, (not just the channel the glass edge goes in) and I wonder if that's what your guy means by "split"?
Also, some of us have widened the FRONT vertical metal track that rubber ppiece fits in to. I found that's where my window seemed to slow down a bit when going through the top part of that metal track. So I keep the entire front vertical part of the rubber strip well lubed there
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN8084.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN7891.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...S/DSCN7895.jpg
WIDENING the metal track, so the rubber gasket has more room, so the glass edge doesn't get squeezed as tight and add silicone lubricant so the glass slides easily within the rubber channel.
1st pic BELOW has the rubber channel within the metal track, and the window edge is within rubber track.
2nd pic shows I pulled rubber away, and used a screwdriver to widen the metal "C" track. See all the scratches on the side of the vertical metal track, that's from me also using various pliers to bend and widen the track.
You can completely remove the rubber gasket, it's comes out/in very easy.
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...DSCN0824-1.jpg
http://i1099.photobucket.com/albums/...Version2-1.jpg
Hoep this helps!
Allison,
If you want a temporary fix till you can get a replacement seal, just cut the seal where Sue's finger is pointed in the first pic. Trash the piece in the front track & replace with felt weather strip from Home Depot or Lowes. I ran mine like that for several years till I finally got off my arse & put in an OEM seal I got from Sue. There are probably still pix of it in my gallery if you want to take the time to sift through all those pages.:)
Tom
She toldme the front vertical rubber gasket is all ripped and twisted, so I mentioned your fix when we spoke by phone, although I told her to cut it off a little further down, at the base of the tweeter panel. And told her to try your felt weatherstripping idea. :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
She was losing daylight so she would get back to it later.
I'm going to try cutting the seal until I can get the part. Sue explained how easy it is to take the door panels off and take a looksee at what's really going on in there. Unfortunately the VX is on jack stands right now. I took the rear rims off to plastidip them. My first try, I had some peeling....then I ran out of daylight...then locked my keys in the VX. It was time to quit for the day. haha.I'm taking a second try and so far so good. It's cold and rainy here though, so until that project is finished, I'm stuck. I really want to see if I can tell that the binding is indeed being caused by the rubber guide and nothing else. My mechanic told me he had to remove all the door guts again to replace that, but Sue says that's not true. I have lost faith in my mechanic and I will try to tackle it myself. I've been trying to get Merlin's place on the phone since Friday to order the part anyway, but no luck yet. So, I probably won't have this fixed for a couple more weeks. :(
You'll have to remove the inside door panel & the window glass to do the mod. You do NOT have to remove the regulator.
When I got my VX, the rubber weatherstrip was torn & bunching up so that the window got jammed in there pretty tight. I had no other option than to remove the damaged section of the weather strip & replace with felt until I quit procrastinating & got the right part.
The only problem I encountered when switching back to the OEM weatherstrip was that I used some high grade adhesive to glue the felt in place. It was a som-na-beech to remove.
If you want to take a road trip to Fredericksburg, we could knock it out in about 30 minutes. I probably won't be back in Williamsburg area till March.
As I understood her, mechanic told her he had to remove basically all the door guts to remove the twisted/torn rubber weatherstrip/gasket piece in the metal channel area. But on mine, I know I pulled out the top and rear portion, then pulled UP on the remaining front strip and it came right out of that front metal channel, all the way out.
Only difference, mine was not ripped or bunched up, so that might make a little difference in how easy it is to pull it up and out.
.
.
.
.
*** oh, one tip I forgot to mention to her
when messing with the metal channel trying to widen it, be real careful not to let pliers slip off and hit the inside skin of metal door shell..you don't want a wrench imprint on your door...
Nah. If the weather strip is bunched up then it's already pulled loose from the track and it should come out real easy. IIRC, when I finally replaced the entire strip, the rubber was just held on by friction. There's no adhesive. So inside door panel & glass are all that need to be removed (actually a very easy process that only takes about 10 minutes).
But you only have to remove the GLASS if you're trying to install something like the felt, right? I didn't have to remove the glass at all, just yanked the strip, and put in a brand new one, all w/o removing glass.Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
Then you must have magic fingers. I don't know how you'd get the weatherstrip in place with the glass still engaged with the tracks. The window will still be in the track even in the lowest position.
Even if you can, it would probably be quicker & more easier to remove the glass since it's literally a matter of 2 bolts, tilt & slide out.
Of course, if your windows are tinted, you have to be much more careful on the 'slide out' part.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tom4bren
I'd cleaned the metal channel, and treated every square inch of the new rubber strip with 303 andput a little Silicone spray in the rubber track where the glass goes.
Then, with glass in place, I was able to feed the rubber strip down some, and then grab it from underneath and pull it down into place. I used the electric window to position the glass where it made it easiest to get the rubber strip where I wanted it. The window edge actually pushed the rubber right into place, worked great.
And you're right, the rubber strip is just held in by friction, no glue.
And watching Tim remove the glass when installing my SBC brackets made me quite sure neither Dave or I was gonna touch it! KISS!
(bet ya'll didn't know that last S stood for Sue did ya?)
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0821.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0816.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0799.jpghttp://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/515/DSCN0798.jpg
OK, New issue, can really use some help. I got the rubber track in...the new regulator that the shop replaced a few weeks ago...and it's all hooked up. BUT, the glass is still rocking forward and I THINK I see why. The little plastic clip on the regulator is coming detached from the track causing it to not stay horizontally flat. Is this a common problem? I did widen the front track and moved it a little. It really did help, it's not as bad, but still binding. It is not jumping off the side window track anymore though.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...7_12_51_57.jpg
The top white plactic guide is not on the track at all but the buttom one is. There is no way to "push" it back either. :(
Help?
Also, I tried the washer fix, but the bottom white piece is already tight against the guide/track. When I added the washers, it put too much strain on the bottom white plastic piece.