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Several autoparts stores and Inland Truck parts show the same u-joint for front and rear driveshaft replacement. I took my rear driveshaft to Inland to replace those u-joints and a rebalance.
They just called and said (after removing both joints) that the front one is bigger. I wonder why I haven't noticed a thread mentioning that...or found a parts store listing two separte numbers?
:bigears:
Yes, they are different. Isuzu list two different part numbers.
Just confirmed the same.
Now I'm trying to find alternate sources for the front. I wonder if it's it the same as a trooper u-joing from any year? Have people found this from other than dealerships?
That seems WAY odd to me, since there is no reference to it in the workshop manual...but it IS Isuzu, so...:_confusedQuote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...intCapture.PNG
I would think that there should be 2 sets of spec for the spider pin. Unless the spider pin is same-same, & they're using different size cups on the other one.
OTOH, when I look for the part(s), I'm see'n the same result...:_confused
$pendy little buggers.
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/da...intCapture.PNG
I'm almost finished calling all local autoparts stores. (Haven't tried alternate driveline shops yet). All of them show the same part for both u-joints -- which is incorrect.
I called my local Isuzu back. Trooper shows the same front (rear driveshaft) u-joint as the VX. When I'm calling local parts shops, I'm asking about Troopers too.
I haven't called Merlin yet, but local Isuzu price for the front u-joint is $121 (same as post above). Give me a break. Plus, I'd have to wait about a week to get it.
Back to my search....
If I remember correctly when I got mine from Merlin it was right around $70. The rear Isuzu part number is 8-97211133-0 and is refered to on the box as a "journal asm: prop".
I don't have a front one on hand.
Finally! For other owner's reference.....
Neaco is an aftermarket supplier of u-joints. With a cross-reference from OEM part#'s to the Neaco line, I found the following:
Front UJoint: Neaco part#: 2-0317 Advanced Auto Parts ($34) --- OEM Part# 8-97167-317-0
Rear U-Joint: Neaco part#: 2-0383 Advanced Auto Parts ($14) --- OEM Part# 8-97216-133-0
CarQuest has the same part numbers as Neaco on their box.
Advanced Auto also had the Neaco numbers on their boxes.
Parts are installed and verified.
(As mentioned in prior threads, EVERY SINGLE AFTERMARKET parts company I called showed the same u-joint for front and rear. I even checked Trooper's designation -- same deal. AAP and CarQuest said they would send a parts correction request to their IQ HQ. I wouldn't count on the world being fixed thru my effort. Still you have this thread as an assist to find in-town parts. Once I figured this all out (after 4hrs), I found both front and rear u-joints in stock at AAP!) Tomorrow I'll get to see if this solves my hwy vibration. Hoping it does because the front u-joint was nearly seazed-up.
Hope this helps someone along the way!
Got to keep those bad boys greased!
Just got back from reinstallation and a drive. This was the primary source of vibration I've been chasing since ownership!
Much better!
:dance:
Glad you finally tracked it down...:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
x2Quote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
But be cautious, replacing/rebuilding my driveshaft fixed my vibrations for a while, but they came back and until I corrected the angle of the rear pinion angle the vibrations would always come back eventually. Mine used to even go away for a few days after greasing the U'joints and spline on the driveshaft.
In the future just call Independent 4x. One 5minute conversation with them and I knew what I needed to order and from who and that the Ujoints are different, but my driveshaft shop didn't even need the info they just took measurements and had Ujoints in stock and fixed it up same day :-)
Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier. I hope your vibrations do not come back but if they do, look at adjustable lower links for the rear to correct pinion angle problems.
Yours is lifted though....Currently, mine's not. OTOH, I was curious how high I can lift w/o issues. For example, I was considering a 1" or 2" helper-cup (vs springs). Of course, crank the front a couple of turns.Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBeast
My front u-joint was really bad. Like it had never been greased in it's life (except the once I did it during my 1 year ownership).
I'm also curious how much (extra) travel the slip joint has for lengthening travel of the driveshaft. (Kinda makes you wonder if lifts are as easy as some posters make it out!)
Never heard of anyone "dropping out"...least wise, not from lifting.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
I dropped out once, but I hadda get sideways into a tree, breaking the weld on the R side lower link & moving the axle back, to do it...:yesgray:
Ah I see. Well then great fix :-) Sorry I was assuming you were slightly lifted already.Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
I lengthened the lower links almost a full inch and I could not see the threads, but then I lengthened another turn and you could begin to see the spline coming out of the rubber cover thing. I had the driveshaft place look at it and he said he can lengthen the shaft for me, so that is on my to do list.
Keep in mind it comes out further when the rear axle drops during use.Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleBeast
As for the fix, I wonder if I should post in the Talk forum. It would be interesting to see how many people might be ignoring this problem. The other unit I've driven in town also had some vibration in the rear (though I could only feel it vs hear it.) Seems like his could use a new u-joint or two. And, he's got a 3" lift with links.
The other reason to post in Talk is I originally thought the characteristic vibration of the 6VE1 around 2200-2500 rpms was transmitting thru the drivetrain. I had a whole big thread on the vibration about a year ago. Any repost would serve to resolve that issue/thread.
I dunno what percent of forum users refine their viewing to selected forum topics...:_confusedQuote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
All I know is, I go straight to the home page, & all active topics are right there to pick & choose.
Yeah, if you login often enough, the recent topics option is really the best. Probably not what prospective buyers see though. Initially, I looked mostly in the talk forum and the for sale forum.
While I'm on the u-joint/driveshaft topic, I'd like to hear a bit about the front shaft and it's considerations. Also, it looks like it uses something else other than u-joints to perform the same task. Could someone tell me a bit more about that?
Thanks!
gp
CV joints on front driveshaft. I have an extra shaft sitting around somewhere, but I found no one willing to rebuild it, so I just got a better used one when both of the rubber seals (small boots) were ruined on mine.
Boy, they sure didn't look anything like the wheel halfshaft CVs. In fact, I don't remember seeing any rubber! :o
Is this (front driveshaft) the type of CV someone was talking about adding to the rear driveshaft?
:_thinking
BTW...I showed this forum's procedures on CV inboard detachment and front-wheel-bearing repack to the service manager at Inland Truck. This is where I had my rear driveshaft rebuilt/balanced. He said he would do CV boot or CV axle installs for about $225-$250/side. Sounds pretty darn good to me!
Also, compared to EMPI's, I see CV halfshafts on eBay from Cardone. Oddly, they vary from $58 all the way to $175ish. (And, the $58 units say "NEW".) Why such a big spread? Is there a difference in this units? And, how do they compare to EMPI or NAPA pricing? IIRC, EMPI's are over $100. If these can be bought for $58, why redo a boot vs replacing the axle? Safer it would seem.
Thanks!
The OEM half shafts/balls/cages, are FAR more durable than most of the Chinese made aftermarket replacements...:yesgray:Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
OK...I want to hone that statement. Are you saying EMPI's are OEM quality while Cardone is chinese?
Also, what if the halfshaft just NEEDED to be replaced? And, an owner wanted to choose between EMPI and Cardone?
Cardones that I have seen are all "new remanufactured". Empis are completely new. I payed about $75 for my Empis on Amazon.
Looks like they are more now...Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
http://www.amazon.com/EMPI-Axle-Asse...2001&carId=001
These just say new....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/A1-Cardone-S...item5648bfaff0
OTOH, Summit's site shows direct ship remanufactured Cardone's (IF YOU SEARCH BY YEAR/VEHICLE)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AAZ-60-1310/.
OTOH, if you cut/paste Summit's eBay part # into Summit's site, I get a different listing showing the item as new -- but not for 2001 Isuzu. It does show 95-98 Trooper -- which I thought was the same CV axle as our VX.
Note: The eBay link shows Summit as the seller. That's why I went directly to their site.
After searching for these 2 different U-joints,
Front U-Joint: Neapco part#: 2-0317 Rear U-Joint: Neapco part#: 2-0383.....
Searched online. advance auto said they had them in stock, went there, N/A in computer.
Finally found them in an Industrial supply house, Kelly Supply. in Grand Island, NE ..
It was NEA 2-0317 40.75 , NEA 2-0383 27.34 , For the age of VX, glad Joints are still used out there...
They are a fairly common size, all a good driveshaft shop would need to do is take measurements and use a similar U-Joint with the same dimensions.
I am having a custom rear driveshaft built right now. There will be a u-joint and CV joint on it.
I wonder if the front joint is from the Oldsmobile bravada? I think it used this BW case first. I had to use a trooper front joint when I ditched the tod case.