Need to change any suggestions on best fluid to use?
Thanks
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Need to change any suggestions on best fluid to use?
Thanks
Hi Justin,
When I first bought my VX, I changed the transmission fluids out with Mobile 1 synthetic transmission fluid. I didn't have the tools to change the gaskets and the filter so I just changed the oil. A year later I tackled that project again and replaced both gaskets and the main pan filter. Because the fluid was relatively new I drained it and reused some of it, but I filled it back up with an O'reilly brand full synthetic (dextron 5 or 3?, the GM kind). It may have been valvoline, but it was much cheaper than the mobile 1. My shift quality was good when I first changed the fluids, but it did get smoother after I changed the filter.
The moral of the story is that I personally do not feel it really matters, aslong as you use the GM required fluid. If you're like most of us here, and have a VX with >100K miles, then you have similar gunk and deposits inside - so just buying the most expensive fluid (mobile 1) won't really undo any of the wear to the transmission. I would not have dropped the $100 on the mobile 1 fluid.
Yeah, I'm just going to check my level and top off if necessary. If you don't know what's already in there, what's the "safest" fluid to use, to add to the existing mess?
And where's the best place to buy a suitable plug-and-gasket kit?
More importantly, where's the fill location? I think I see a plug up high on the DS of the unit, but I'm not sure I could get my hand in to r/r it.
I changed all fluids in my drivetrain except transmission. I'd like to do this too -- if I can figure out how to refill it! :o
I did not see any loss in performance (or any negative issues) when I switched from the ?? fluid in the VX (which was inside when I bought) it to full synthetic. Any GM approved synthetic should be fine to add. Replacing the all the fluid should be safe - just be cautious of transmission "flushes" that are advertised in shops.
You can get the gasket kits from Advance autoparts, and even NAPA. Some stores even carry stock. The VX has two transmission pans, the first is just behind the oil pan, and the other, larger one is behind the first. I had to buy the smaller pan gasket online (from ebay) as it was not available in any of the stores I checked. This smaller gasket is in principle re-usable, but mine was torn when I first changed the fluid.
If you look on the How-to section of this forum, or search google for "transmission fluid change site:vehicross.info" you should find a large database of information and a guide to replacing the filter and gaskets.
Great to directions to more fun than you ever thought possible...:bwgy::smilewink:bgwo::bgwb:Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Vette
http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...warticle&id=20
There are two bolts in the main (large) transmission pan. One is on the very bottom, and the other is situated higher up towards the passenger side. The two bolts are separated by maybe 12 inches.
The fill plug is the one that is higher up, and if you slide underneath and find both bolts you will understand. You are to put one end of your filling hose into the fill plug opening, and then using a fluid pump (like $15 at the autoparts store) you fill it with 7 quarts of fluid. Then you close it up, follow the guide on this site to checking the fluid - and either remove or add more.
The drain plug (the bolt that is on the bottom of the pan) has a washer that needs to be replaced each time the fluid is changed. I believe you must order this from Merlin (Call parts at St. Charles Isuzu). I was able to re-use mine by sanding down the washer and using some copper high-heat RTV. No leaks so far.
Where is the transmission filter? It is not shown in the step by step:
http://www.vehicross.info/modules.ph...warticle&id=20
The drain plug washers are available at local auto parts. I like the fiber type. Just don't over-tighten the drain plug.
Filter location...when you drop the main pan it will be staring you in the face. Two bolts hold it in place. Very easy to remove/replace. Make sure to buy your gasket a few days in advance. It will come folded in half...unfold, place on flat surface and place something flat and heavy on top to flatten it. It will make the job a lot easier.
Also be sure to read the refill instructions in the manual. Filling is done hot with engine running and you must cycle through the gears.
Also, search my username and trans and you should find a little write up with pictures.
You must remove the main pan to change the filter...to do so you must remove the cross member and support the transmission. Your filter should come with the gasket and if you lay the gasket out to flatten for a few days before you use it you'll be glad you did.Quote:
Originally Posted by PA-99
You can actually get the pan off without removing the cross member if you use a swivel socket but the trans mount has been known to loosen up over time so it is always a good time to check it.
Good to know and excellent suggestion on the trans mount!Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
I am using Mobil 1 ATF:yesb:Quote:
Originally Posted by p_justin13
Mobil-1 ATF here also.
With synthetics, it's not just how similar they flow at normal operating temps when compared to regular fluids, it's how well they maintain their viscosities throughout their entire operating range. If you've ever added regular oil to an engine when it's around zero degrees F outside, you've seen how differently it pours when compared to adding it during the summer months. And on the opposite end of the scale, synthetics are designed to also maintain their flow characteristics when hot.
This applies to any full-synthetic fluid though, not just Mobil-1.
I got my VX about 3-4 yrs now. I had the trans fluid changed immediately as part of a check list of things I did. I haven't changed it since. I've been told that since it's been so long that I should change it or it will kill the transmission. Is this true?
Trans fluid and filter in transmissions is just like engine oil in engines. There's usually a timeframe/mileage recommended by the manufacturer for when they should be replaced.Quote:
Originally Posted by tysamigo
Transmission fluids and filter changes for automatic transmissions are generally recommended at around 60k miles (after new, or, since they were last replaced), but individual driving conditions and type of fluid can change those time periods and mileages.
Atilla mentioned to "be cautious" before agreeing to a transmission flush. To elaborate, there have been several posts here where people suspect that a flush may have lead to failure of their transmissions. Some advice says to avoid it unless you know it's been done on a regular basis.
You may have already read this, but just in case others read this thread in the future, I thought it was worth mentioning. Search for "transmission flush" for more details.
This is what I've heard. I got the Proton 3-4 years ago with 25k miles. It now has 94k miles. I had the fluid changed once when I first got it and haven't changed it since. Would it be ok to change now you think?Quote:
Originally Posted by RickOKC
With 70,000 since the last change, now would be a good time to change the fluid and filter. I bought mine with 150,000 miles and changed the filter and fluid to Amsoil Synthetic ATF with only good things to say about the trans performance since then, no horror stories or doom and gloom! I would NOT flush it though, too many reported problems with that procedure, usually resulting in transmission failure...:_brickwal :_mecker:
X2Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Larson
I have the fear of doing a change, only because in the past, the vehicle always ran funny afterwards. I bought all the parts then I was reminded how things run after filter changes. Has anyone experienced any problems after the filter and fluid change?
I had the Check Trans Temp light come on ONCE only a few hours after I had the work done. I posted here and a few others had the same thing. It has not ever come on again and it runs/shifts great.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmayer40
Mine actually shifted smoother after the filter change, it was a slight change - but perceivable. The filter was very very dirty, very clogged. I never had the temp light issue - and the job went smoothly, except removing the old gasket from the pan mating surface. (it took a long time). Support the transmission with a jack, drop the crossmember with a socket and a breaker bar, drop the pan, remove the old gasket, change the filter, put a bead of RTV on the mating surface and set the new gasket, then put the pan back on with the new filter installed. Repeat for the second pan, then refill the pan with ~7 quarts of synthetic ATF.
Wash the pans with brake cleaner to remove the metal shavings which inevitably coat the bottom of the inside of the pan.
I changed my own filter and fluid to synthetic not long after purchasing my VX and haven't had any problems. My VX doesn't get subjected to much severe duty though (towing, extensive off-road 4x4 usage, etc) so a VX operating under those conditions will also require more frequent trans fluid and filter servicing.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmayer40
I have always been told that rtv or the likes is a no-no on trans gaskets. If small pieces of it dry out and break free they clog the small passageways and cause problems by restricting/blocking fluid flow.
The filter is right on top of the pan, and I didn't see any small passageways in the area that isn't beyond the filter, but I'll keep an eye out. The bead size I used should not have exceeded the mating surface, even when pressed.
Ok I have two v-cross I did transmission flush this weekend.. one went good but the 2nd one slipped on me after 5 min test driving.. it shifted violently coming out of 1 st gear then rev high and shifted hard again from 1st to 2nd.. I got nervous and stopped went thru each gear with brake on and turn off and back on and it seemed ok... I went home and parked it.. any idea what might have happened. Did I over fill??
You did a flush? Did you read through this thread at all? Flushing and changing fluid are different things. Flushing involves actively cleaning out the transmission, while changing fluids is just replacing the fluid in the pans after you turn the truck off.
You may have under-filled. If you open the fill port (the higher of the two bolts) and cycle through the gears with the engine warm, you should see a very fine drip when the fluid is at the right level. No drip, and you should add fluid (and cycle through gears). If you overfilled it, just let it drain from the fill port until its just a trickle.
Thanks, Yes I meant changing fluids.. So ether overfilling or under filling would cause this and did I cause any damage to the transmission from this skipping ?
Trannys are tough little SOBs and if this is the only damage you did you should be okay. It is always best to read directions first then ask any questions then after feeling fully confident you know what you are doing and have everything you need (including thinks like new gasket for the fill drain bolt) set aside enough time for the repair then start.
All together now Thanks Dad
Dude...just fill it to the proper level, & then worry about over/under filling...:yesgray:Quote:
Originally Posted by molivares
What I'm say'n here is ...R-E-L-A-X...http://www.familybunker.com/forums/i...FB-smoking.gif...http://msnsmileys.net/b/smileys/Bananas/Sleeping.gif
You're gonna be OK...http://msnsmileys.net/b/smileys/Bananas/Winner.gif
Just do this...:_wrench:
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/fluid1.png
So.. I missed this little fact and ASSumed that it was a "rubber style" re-usable gasket... BAD ASSumtion! The gasket broke up into 10-12 segments, half of which were on the oip pan and the other half was on the tranny!Quote:
Originally Posted by atilla_the_fun
I desperately need a this "small pan" gasket and no local parts store/chain has (Felpro part number TOS 18756). Does anyone know equivalent gasket from another manufacturer?
Overall, it took me about 2 hours to clean off the gasket from the pans and from the transmission! Leaving the x-member in place and trying to work around it would have been an nightmare! I am glad I moved it out of the way (about 5 min without air tools).
My local CarQuest has everything I have needed for my VX's! I just picked-up the complete timing belt kit for one of 'em and it has everything, belt, tensioner, idler, water pump, gaskets, everything...While I was at it, I also got a trans filter and gasket plus the front pan gasket, they had them in stock; the counter-guy even asked if I also wanted the valve-body filter for the front pan...I didn't even know there was one (It's mounted above the valve-body, can't see it). The sweet thing about dealing with my local parts guy is that if there is a problem, he fixes it now!! There may be cheaper places online but I sure wouldn't want to lose that kind of local service...:thumbup:
It wont be the first time ive asked a stoopit question...but here it goes. How are you guys "SUPPORTING" the transmission??
My tranny is starting to slip going from 3rd to 4th gears. Wanting to do the transmission drain and filter, and the TOD box, but cant figure out where to put a jack to support it all while I have the pans out. and I DO want to take the crossmember out.....I just hate pain in the neck bolts falling, not starting, ect... any help on this support problem?
Leon, could you check that Felpro gasket number please.....my carquest guy said that number does not come up in his Felpro book/computer. I don't want to take a chance when changing tranny fluid and not have this gasket on hand
Thanks!
Yes... I am pretty sure that is the number, I think that quoted it about 20-30 times on the phone today ;).
BTW, I also found that ATP makes a version ATP EG12. But I couldn't find ANY local sources for ATP.
I was so desparite, I even tried Honda Passport and Acura SLX gasket (Honda PN 8-96014-234-0, retail $30) to no avail...
In the end, I bought 22"x11" Felpro gasket making material and made my own gasket for $7, so far, no leaks. Took me about 30 minutes to make it. Considering that I spent 2-3 hours trying to find a premade gasket, I should have gone with homemade one to begin with :).
As for supporting the tranny, I just put the floor jack under the transfer case.
Floor-jack under the transfer is how I do it, no big deal...why are you dickin' around with homemade gaskets, they are readily available?
Did you read my posts? I live in one in most dence populated areas of the country, with DOZENS of autopart stores and dealers around me. I called EVERY KNOWN source! I have friends who work behind parts counter who searched their suppliers and other stores. Eventually I came to a conclusion that if I want my running next few day I had no choice but to make my own gasket!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Larson
4L30E maybe a common tranny, but that secondary, small pan (which goes by 5+ different names!!! ;)) is unique to Isuzu version. If you going to take it off: order the gasket ahea of time!!! They are, indeed, readily available... but inly if you have a 1-3 dad to spare!
BTW, the new, premade gasket is now on order! At first sign of my home made gasket leaking, it is going in!
Sounds like the only thing that's dense around your neck-o-the-woods is the parts-counter people...I live in bumm-f@#ck, fricken no-man's land and can get 'em over-the-counter! :_confused Time to move...