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Leaving work and notice that my car idles around 1500 when in drive. I bumped in into Neutral and after a second or two the rpm shot up to almost 2500 steady. No, the throttle cable isn't stuck. Never noticed this before like 10 minutes ago. And yes, I'm killing the search function lol.
Was the floor mat possibly up against the gas pedal? This issue has popped up with a few members here (it even happened to me once...never again though), and it's been described as intermittent at best. Not sure if there's really an answer to this one.
This does sound A LOT like a transmission problem, especially if the engine flux idle sensor/capacitor thats inside the MRF is leaking. Have you had any recent work done? The MRF-usion bolt is behind the flexplate mounting bolts and can be damaged when the tranny is serviced??
Mine did this last winter.. One time, RPMS go to 2500 after putting the car into park. The issue resolved itself and never happened again.
Hmmm. No. But I remember reading something on here once about remote starting the VX giving it issues and having to turn it off and restart it. I remote start my car each morning, but it has time to warm up. Today I remote started it from like 10 feet away and got right in and it did it immediately. It didn't happen once I restarted the car. Hmmm.
On second thought, I think the floormat issue was related to a Toyota Tacoma I used to have. Toyota had even incorporated hooks into the floorboard carpeting that went through a hole in the floormat to keep it from shifting too far forward.
On VX's, the main possibility that's usually popped up is the drivers' right foot hitting the brake pedal and gas pedal at the same time because they're so close together, especially if aftermarket pedal covers have been installed.
Fuel pressure regulator caused all sorts of idle problems on my vx. some days it would idle at 2k rpms others it would stall out right away.. Seemed to be dependant on the engines temp when started and how recently the vx was driven.. After 5 minutes of driving it would return back to normal
Tons of reasons for this to happen, and it is very common. Some causes are mundane, some are very esoteric. All I can say is do a search for "high idle" and be prepared to swap in some parts.
Was the fuel pressure regulator expensive or hard to replace? I'm not sure of the location of that part...
Poor contact within the battery terminals or cables can cause erratic idle/high idle.
FPR is more expensive and harder to replace than many of the first tier "fixes".Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezy
I'd call first tier somthing like clean the mass airflow sensor, replace the idle air control valve, clean or replace the throttle position sensor, same with EGR and PCV valves. Then move on to the FPR.
If you can search the forum you would have seen all these suggestions many many times.
Are you getting a check engine light and code? I had this problem recently and it turned out to be the idle-air regulator motor/valve asembly. $47.00 to replace.
I think that's the air idle control valve or AIC. Very easy to replace and yeah about $45 at <insert local auto parts place here>.Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksambo
Shenanigans.Quote:
Originally Posted by atilla_the_fun
You're right Grif, I didn't look close enough.
http://vehicross.info/forums/showthr...ight=high+idle
I will go through these ideas and see how dirty things are, clean them, and replace them if I need to. I didn't see though the location of the IAC or PCV. Are they easily accessible from the engine bay? I'm googled for images, but it didn't show me locations.
PCV is right under plastic engine cover, driver's side, front. See that square part sticking out, it's right under that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezy
http://www.vehicross.info/gallery/data/500/DSC_2817.JPG
wasn't high revs but low oil. Made it sound like high reving. Now when I hear it I just change the oil. Hey why add a quart to dirty oil when its about due anyhow?
Nice looking engine room, KAT!
Intake Manifold Gaskets.... that's what mine was :(
Intake gaskets for me too. Thought I'd have that code FOREVER. Also, cleaned the IAC motor & MAS sensor thoroughly. Light out. Idle restored. CEL has stayed off. Had CEL from just over 100k miles to around 200k miles. 213k now. All better.
Problem solved. I bought a can of mass air flow cleaner, a can of carb cleaner, and a new PCV valve. Tore open my throttle body and took er inside and scrubbed her down good with a tooth brush and carb cleaner. She was gunked up like crazy. Way worse than I would have imagined. I also took off my throttle position sensor and idle air control sensor and cleaned those out really well. It was nasty all up in the IAC's parts. Way totally disgusting. Worst the the butterfly and throttle body itself. I was idling up to 2500 RPM in neutral and could idle down the road at 25 MPH, no foot on the gas. She is idling lower than ever now. In park she is at about 800 RPM and drops to around 500-600 when in gear I think. I wonder if I'll get better fuel economy now......? Throttle response should definitely be better though! :)
Good job Breezy! You covered all the bases, did it yourself and did not spend a lot of $$$ trying. Sounds like you nailed it, hope it did! :):):)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Breezy
Yeah, I got a little nervous. After I replaced the PCV valve it started my check engine light came on for the first time ever. But I had autozone read the code and it said "intake air temp" sensor, which I had moved around earlier. I pulled it out, stuck it back in and turned it upright and it worked fine and my check engine light went right off. What a relief. I was really scared there for a moment lol. I think today I might see about getting a synthetic swap for standard oil change somewhere. :) It's due, and I have 2000 miles of driving to do over Thanksgiving....Rear speaker replacement may also be something on the list of things for today. 12 hours in a car with blown rear speakers may become irritating...