So when I hit a bump or anything, my vx shoots sideways. It like tracks itself towards w/e imperfection in the road I hit. Sometimes pretty aggressively. Any ideas on what may cause this?
Printable View
So when I hit a bump or anything, my vx shoots sideways. It like tracks itself towards w/e imperfection in the road I hit. Sometimes pretty aggressively. Any ideas on what may cause this?
Replace all your balljoints, tie rods and tighten the adjuster screw on your steering gear and you will have a front end that rides like brand new. Promise.
Also, check here for more ideas...:_wrench:
Also, I don't remember what you have for tires, but if you have aggresive tires they really like to follow ruts etc in the road.
nothing aggressive at all here. actually very far from it. rims and tires will come in the winter =] but for now...I need to make 'er drive true
Tires and tire pressures was going to be my suggestion too. Is this tracking issue something that just started happening overnight on the same roads, or has it been a gradual change?
And along with tire pressures, a set of tires whose tread is getting lower and lower will sometimes have the same effect as they eventually become more like a set of slicks, which will tend to "track" like you're describing too.
If it's not the tires though, I'd agree that adjusting/tightening the steering box would be one of the first things to try.
At first glance it looks like you are talking about the back jumping out on bumps.
I know my rear axle will hop while going over large bumps that cross the road while I am under speed. I know I have a bad OEM shock back there that may be lending a helping hand in my issues.
When i bought my VX a year ago it had the same problem. I replaced the ball joints and tie rod ends with a cheap kit from ebay. What difference. And if you are good with the wrench it is not too hard to do yourself. Marlin mentions whacking the joints with a sledge to seperate them. He is right. You don't need to rent a ball joint seperater. It is also a great chance to replace the tie rods with the tough Indy 4x4 ones.
Bump steer and a loose front end. Ebenezr had it right check all of your suspension components. Mine did the same thing just like a lifted Toyota I had back in the day. to solve the issued in the Toyota's case was to add a stiffer shock where the steering stabilizer attached to the tie rod. This is not applicable with our Rack and Pinion steering
Good write up Larry. I just read your modifications in your profile and goodness gracious you must have an 20K into your VX.!! :happyfaceQuote:
Originally Posted by Ldub
LOL...I've never dared to add it all up...:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebenezr
Could you please post a link to the kit you've used as well as the tie rods? Also, did you need to get the new rubber boots (and where from)? How labor-intensive is this task on VX (in terms of how much a mechanic would ask for the job)? Is it possible to do without removing caliper/rotor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ebenezr
Thanks!
I refer to this as "crabbing". My VX did this A LOT before I lifted with OME 912s. Since then, the crabbing effect has been minimized. I suspect this is a feature of both our short wheel base frames and coil springs in the rear, as I have never experienced this kind of behavior in any other vehicle. On dirt roads that are badly washboarded I have this problem the most, travelling at 20-30 mph causes the VX to shimmy back and forth over the washboard.
I just did my center link, ball joints and tie-rods up front and I definitely notice a difference up front, but I am not sure how the front end would effect the bouncing and crabbing in the rear.
Bart
Lower air pressure (<15psi) in tires helps tame this tremendously. :yesy:Quote:
Originally Posted by nfpgasmask
Yessir, I know that trick, but occasionally I find myself "passing through" on some more or less nice dirt roads that have washboard sections in them. Not really worth airing down for short stints up into the hills behind the house to excersize my 2nd amendment rights... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
Bart
Figured you knew....was just throwing it out there for others that might have less offroad knowledge :D
Word, son. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
Bart
I, for one, really appreciate stuff like that. THANKS!Quote:
Originally Posted by Triathlete
I went around and stiffened all my Rancho 9000 shocks. There were set really soft. I put them all to level 7 and the ride improved dramatically! What would the best settings be for handling/comfort?
That's funny I think I will start calling it that:laughb:Quote:
Originally Posted by nfpgasmask
The Rancho brochure says: F/RQuote:
Originally Posted by Breezy
Highway: 6/3
Sport: 8/6
Work/Tow/Haul: 6/8
Off-Road: 4/4
I have a major stretch of washboard on my dirt road that's really severe this year.
I had been running mine at 4/4 for a while, but going about 23-35 mph over that washboard...it jiggled and vibrated the truck so bad my compass on the dash would move up and down on it's hinge and my steering wheel would shake and move too....
Otherwise, the front was a little too floaty/bouncy on dirt/gravel roads. Just changed it to 6/3 last week and it's much MUCH better. It handles the washboard better, not quite as bone jarring vibration and the compass stays still.
Our dirt road is private, no city maintenance, so various residents hop on their tractors after a good rain and grade the road by dragging a blade behind the tractor....but it's been so hot and dry, nobody's been able to do that for the past 6-8 weeks, so the washboard that's developed is just fierce.
Also lowered the air pressure yesterday from 40-41 down to 35, and logically, that made the washboard a bit mellower as well.
I like this combo, think I'll keep running them at 6/3, and may air up a little if the road gets scraped.
Anyone, anyone?
How labor-intensive is this task (replacing ball joints) on VX (in terms of how much a mechanic would ask for the job)? Is it possible to do without removing caliper/rotor?
The shop I'd trust to do that is pretty far away, I wouldn't want to drive there just to get an estimate.
If your average mechanically it would take you 8 hours- 4 hours each side. there is a learning curve and it goes faster each time you do it. There are some "How to" links on this...I think. Maybe it was triathlete that (or was it Marlin) that posted a pictorial.??? but wherre the difficulty is when I have done it is replacement of the lower ball joint. You have to fight resistance from the suspension when religning and getting your bolts back in. Otherwise it is easy and a rewarding experience. Use a sledge to bang on the joints to pop them apart.Quote:
Originally Posted by stangri
If you want to replace Tie rod sleeves -with actually the only one available on the market- then go to Indy4x4.com they have a beefed up version for the VX.
The kits of ball joints and tie rod ends are cheap and I found dozens on Ebay. The same year Trooper is identical so you may use the Trooper as your search term. also Carpartswholesale.com and some of the other comparable sites offer cheap kits. good luck. :) oh and you remove the caliper- easy but not the rotor. when you remove the caliper be prepared to immediately tie it up out of the way with a bungy or something.